Need to change the engine oil on my x738. Can I use regular automobile oil? Is there anything special in the TY22029 JD oil that I'm not aware of? I use Mobile 1 5W30 in the wife's sequoia and was planing on using that. Any concerns? Thanks!
Has 50 hrs on her. First oil change. I called the local dealer and asked him if there was any difference in auto oil and JD oil. He said the JD oil is designed for hotter running engines. Tractor engines run much hotter than car engines. That sounded like a BS story since the X738 is water cooled. I would also think the full synthetic oil would provide better lubrication than straight dyno oil. I use my tractor year round so the 5W30 and 100hr changes seems to be the way to go..
It's a fairly new model, so unless it was used commercially it would not have many hours on it....you really should check the manual and see what is recommended...but I think it calls for 10w-30
AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic Small Engine Oil is formulated to outperform passenger-car/light-truck oils, AMSOIL Synthetic Small-Engine Oil protects against wear, deposits and oil consumption in over-worked, under-maintained small engines professionals rely on to make a living.
amsoil.syntheticmotoroil.org
They changed the label in the last year or so, but in the past, it said it has higher zinc levels, which is good for small engines. Automobile oils have very low zinc levels to prevent clogging the catalytic converter.
I checked the owners manual. Since we have had temps in the winter colder than -20F, that’s why I went with 5W30. If I were further South, I would likely choose differently.
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If I didn’t mind changing oil twice a year, I would choose to match temp range for that part of the year, but I don’t put that many hours on during 1/2 the year. So I spend the extra and cover the whole year. Yes we do get cold some years, not as much lately, but I don’t want to be changing oil in an unheated garage in the middle of a snow storm. Getting old I’m getting wimpy. 😁 Coldest I remember seeing was -30F. Dangerous to mess around in. Things have to work. Even warmer temps with high winds have to be taken seriously.
I think you're on the right track. Although rather than commit to a fixed change interval especially on such a new engine I'd keep my eye on it and see how it looks, pulling the dipstick before each outing.
If it looks bad sooner, change it sooner... oil is cheaper than engines.
Because of our crazy weather here I was thinking of running 5w-40 in my newly acquired '94 425. I believe it should be fine, but I am looking for a second opinion. Thanks.
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Note that Rotella T6 is designed for diesels and should not be used in a car with a catalytic converter. But for air-cooled engines it seems like a good choice. I am probably going to use it for all my non-car 4cycle engines.
I have been a Mobile 1 fan since my first new car in '90 however I use Rotella T6 in my (gas) OPE due to the fact that they have flat tappets and Rotella has high levels of zinc that protects your cam and tappets.
Yes and that is kind of the point. The EPA has significantly reduced the amount of allowable ZDP (a zinc compound) used in gas automotive engine oils. ZDP shortens catalytic converter life but is a great friction modifier. Newer car engines have roller lifters and do not need the ZDP. Your tractor engine is a flat tappet engine and benefits from the added zinc.
Technically yes but. The issue is, you can ruin a catalytic converter by running it, hence not recommended for vehicles.
No cat, no negatives. Positives: generally a higher zinc content and also better at holding particulates (soot) in suspension.
I usually run diesel oil in all of my flat-tappet gas engines, buy it in bulk for the truck anyhow. Delo or Rotella, whichever I find first, both good stuff.
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