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I can't see it articulating with the three point arms hooked up. Maybe I am missing something.
Mystery 3-point dump bucket
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It uses the 3-pt lift arms, but not the top link. Instead there's a linkage assembly that connects from the top of the bucket to a fixed-position drawbar. As you raise the lift arms the drawbar link pulls down. I guess you could say as the lift arms push up on the bottom of the bucket the drawbar connection pulls down on the top of the bucket, causing it to rotate (curl).
I'm hoping to get a temp rig on it for testing soon. When I can I'll video it in action.
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And I thought there was some kind of left, right rotation. Just couldn't see how that was possible.
It will be interesting to see how this drawbar connection works.
Most have a hydraulic top link or a trip to dump the bucket. So this is something new to me.
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Don't feel bad. I misunderstood the drawbar link. Pictures were showing this doesn't turn.
There is talk here of a parts diagram? Did I miss something else's?
Yes I bounced right over the parts diagram.
Would be interesting to see this function.
I have watched videos of others working but not this one.
Looks like the drawbar connection keeps the bucket level. What I don't get is the location of what looks like a trip lever.
Full disclosure: the manual doesn't really describe the 'auto curl' functionality. I'm assuming this based on the illustrations and the fact that the bucket mounts to the drawbar and not the top link. Hope I'm right.
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The manual mentions that certain parts are required for use with 8N Ford tractors. That may help date this. Looks like te 8N was produced from '47 - '52. My dad bought and used an 8N around '70, and I'm pretty sure there are some still in use today, but I'm thinking an implement designed for use on an 8N was probably developed up to about 10 years after the tractor went out of production???
The manual mentions that certain parts are required for use with 8N Ford tractors. That may help date this. Looks like te 8N was produced from '47 - '52. My dad bought and used an 8N around '70, and I'm pretty sure there are some still in use today, but I'm thinking an implement designed for use on an 8N was probably developed up to about 10 years after the tractor went out of production???
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That sheds some light on the operation. The drawbar attachment curls the bucket during lift as stated. It also explains why the release lever is located where it is.
Also makes me wonder how it would work with a hydraulic link instead of a solid from the drawbar. This bucket was designed for the 8N. It's been a long time since operating an 8N. If I remember right the on board hydraulic and pto don't operate with the clutch pushed in and the three points were mechanical rockers. Required a shift to neutral and clutch release to make the fun functions work. How I hated the 8N.
Also makes me wonder how it would work with a hydraulic link instead of a solid from the drawbar. This bucket was designed for the 8N. It's been a long time since operating an 8N. If I remember right the on board hydraulic and pto don't operate with the clutch pushed in and the three points were mechanical rockers. Required a shift to neutral and clutch release to make the fun functions work. How I hated the 8N.
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Or about 2 cu ft of dirt or sand. It could still beat a shovel.
Don't take this as discouragement but it will take more than that. Do you have a front plow/blade setup for the pk by any chance?
As far as the usefulness of the 200lb lift capacity, it is not ideal but it is also not a totally fixed thing. The factory 3pt lifts of most small tractors are set 'mostly' based on assumptions about front counterweight, by setting the hydraulic relief pressure. In most cases the factory pressure is well under what everything in the system can handle, so it's possible to adjust it upwards IF you have enough front counterweight to be able to make any use of it. Obviously any time you increase the strength of one thing you take a chance of moving the weakest link in the chain to something you really didn't want to mess up, but if you're only trying to increase your lift capacity from 200 to 300 or 350 lbs i would say there's a good chance most of your hardware will be fine. With enough front weight.
I started this thread to get / share info on the box bucket as manufactured, and I think that's probably run it's course. My plan now is to see if I can make it work with my Power King, so I think it's appropriate I start a thread under the Power King forum.
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Still would be an interesting installation on anything with 3 point hitch and no other hydraulics.
I could abandon the weight box. Use the sand and gain a scoop. All by pulling three pins.
Still think with a little redesign the drawbar link could be moved to the top link.
Many old tractor had no place for such a connection. The drawbar was there so why not use it. All these old tractors had a drawbar.
I could abandon the weight box. Use the sand and gain a scoop. All by pulling three pins.
Still think with a little redesign the drawbar link could be moved to the top link.
Many old tractor had no place for such a connection. The drawbar was there so why not use it. All these old tractors had a drawbar.
Again, this whole autocurl thing could be my imaginings; based on the two drawings, without any statement from the maker...
But I think for it to work the link would have to go from the top of the bucket to a point below the lift arms. Seems to me attachment to the top link point is going to keep it pretty much parallel to the ground, like any other 3-pt trip bucket.
I gotta figure out a way to get this thing hooked up and test my 'understanding.'
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If you can find the missing pieces or make them. Maybe the PO still has them.
PO bought it at an estate sale 'as is' and doesn't know anything. I'm lucky he got the manual with it.
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I would go with the idea the bucket sits flat on the ground. Per the manual and fill in the blanks. You will not know until it's on.
It definitely does the auto curl thing, it is shown in the diagrams in the manual. If you hook it to the normal top link position it wont auto curl and it may even tilt down a little bit depending on the length of the top link. I would use it as designed so things dont bounce out as you're rolling along.
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I would improvise to a simpler design on the missing parts.
If your converting to cat 0 that would be the place to start. 20" between pin points. Then see what the rest looks like.
I have an idea if it where mine. But I am not sure what it will look like behind your PK.
If your converting to cat 0 that would be the place to start. 20" between pin points. Then see what the rest looks like.
I have an idea if it where mine. But I am not sure what it will look like behind your PK.
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