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Toro Whirlwind Museum
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Okay....

The 2 gas caps I have are different, so unfortunately they wouldn't work.

The '64-'65 has the air cleaner decal and it's also shown in the '65 owner's manual that I have. The '66 manual doesn't show it and the '67 manual just uses the same photo as the '66 manual so that doesn't show it either. The '68 and '69 manuals both show it.

In my opinion, '66-'67 should have it. Sometimes photos of mowers/parts are done for the manuals even though not all of the decals may have been applied to the parts prior to the photo shoot. I think that's even more true of the 1960s, before further safety features were introduced in the 1970s.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Nowadays the owners manuals have pictures of every single sticker and urge you to replace them (even the logo!) if they get damaged or fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I've made substantial progress since the last posting. I got pretty much everything done except for the recoil starter and some torque wrench work. :fing32: I'll make several postings showing the progress. I installed the engine on the deck and it looks good. You can't install the muffler yet because it's larger than the hole in the deck and must be installed from the bottom.

You can see how the oiler turned out. David and I determined that the 1966 auto-oilers did not have the instruction decal shown in the "before" pic. So I removed and saved it and then repainted the plastic. I used the same process as with the shroud. This is a gnarly part to paint and I can't think of a good way that makes all the surfaces accessible. So it's not perfect but it's pretty darn good. :) I polished the cap with some mirror glaze to take out the scratches. It took out some of the amber color. I'm under the impression that these caps were originally clear and yellowed with age. I used to think it got stained by the oil. :sidelaugh I'll show the oiler cap later.

I suppose I should explain how the oiler thingy works. The funnel is a reservoir that holds 5 ounces of oil. When you push the plunger button, it opens a valve and lets that oil into the crankcase. To check the oil level, you just push the button and the engine is full when the oil stops bubbling. When changing the oil, you add 4 funnels worth (20 ounces) and then refill and top off as needed. It's handy but I have to wonder how much oil these engines really burn. Are you going to run out of oil THAT quickly? I think the oil condition is as much as problem as the level. But who knows?
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Looks awesome! Great job! Is that lettuce next to the oiler?

Sent from the MTF Free App
:sidelaugh

That's actually a wad of Frog Tape that I use for masking stuff when painting. I started using it because it actually got cheaper than the blue tape.

I'm with you David, I think it's probably gonna look better than factory. Or at least as good as a 1966 Toro is ever gonna look. These things are hard to work with because practically NONE of the parts are still available. Lawn-Boys are so much easier in this respect.

I registered on grantorinosport.org as Y Block but I can't PM the guy until the administrator "approves" my registration...

Here's what happened to the underside of the mower. The muffler assembly was installed first. It actually consists of two pieces that bolt together and the exhaust diffuses out through the gap formed between the pieces. Should be pretty quiet. I think the bottom piece was actually supposed to be black but oh well. I painted the muffler with VHT ceramic header paint rated for 2000 F.

This Whirlwind has a unique S-blade, which was used from 1963 to 1971. Toro claimed various advantages like improved suction, less noise, better cut quality, and less damage from thrown objects. I'm gonna bet it's more of a gimmick but I won't know till it I use it. There were at least a couple versions of the S-blade although I'm not 100% sure when each was used. This is the flatter style. My 18220 has the more contoured style so this may not be correct. But I'm not too worried. :fing32:

That big dish below the blade is the anti-scalp cup. Toro introduced this on the original 1959 Whirlwind as a way to eliminate the "staggered" wheel. I personally think all mowers should have this, because it really works. You still seem them on Toro's professional golf course mowers...
 

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Discussion Starter #68
The throttle cable was one of the most frustrating parts on the whole mower to fix. The one from my 18220 had a great lever but the lettering was worn, and worse, the cable slipped in and out of the housing. David sent me another one that didn't slip but it has its own issues so I figured I'd just stick with the first one. I discovered that one of the throttle case halves has ridges that fit into the grooves in the cable sheath. When the halves are riveted together, those ridges clamp the cable in place. The problem is when the plastic wears out. It wouldn't be easy to add more plastic so my dad found a better solution.

He suggested wrapping a thin wire around the end of the cable in the groove to slightly increase its diameter. Then, we removed the rivets on pried the case open to put the cable inside, and then we secured it back together with machine screws and nuts. This worked like a charm and now the cable holds solid. It took several tries to find the right gauge of wire.

But adding this wire formed a large gap between the case halves at the top surface, even with the screws in place. So I simply filled the gap (and some other damage) with an epoxy. After sanding and many coats of Krylon Fusion, the throttle looked nice and white again. I also sanded the metal part of the lever to 1000 grit before painting.

Then came the lettering. UGH! :1336: I can't really think of a good way to make the lettering. You have nothing to guide you because the letters were all worn down. And they're so thin that virtually anything will make too thick of a mark, even the ultra-thin artist marker I chose. Of course I screwed up numerous times and had to fix the mistakes with whiteout :fing20: so there went my smooth paint job. They didn't turn out too bad. I doubt anyone could really do much better...

If you look closely in the third picture you can see the "WIND" lettering next to "OFF". This was about the only part that hadn't rubbed off. It says "WIND" because you were supposed to have the throttle in the OFF position before winding up the crank starter. I kept this part hidden because I'm using the recoil starter.

It was amazingly tough to push the throttle back into the slot in the control panel. I had to remove the screws I added one at a time to slip the case into the slot, because the screws were wider than the opening. I also scratched up the paint to a small degree and had to touch it up. But I do think it looks sharp! :thThumbsU

I finally figured out what was wrong with the choke setup. I had the choke plate installed backwards! The choke wanted to spring closed instead of open and the wrong side of the lever was facing the throttle plate assembly. So now everything seems to work correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Okay guys, this is the exciting part! :D Here is a preview of how it's gonna finally look with the shroud in place. To be clear, this is NOT final. First, I want to make sure the engine is running perfectly before I install it. Second, you can see a large gap between the air cleaner and shroud. This is the result of the newer 1970 carb setup (see post #43). Although it should work in this configuration, it looks a bit odd. I'm going to get the engine running with this setup (since this is how it was when I got it), and then I'm going to try switching to the original elbow (in post #43) and see if the engine still runs okay. If it does, that's perfect. If not, I'll try at a later date to replace the governor arm assembly so the original setup can be used.
 

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Toro Whirlwind Museum
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The S-blade was 1964 through 1971. :D

I have used both versions of them over the years and they always seemed equally good.

I think the all-white muffler looks great!

You do realize that when you are all done and Toro gets....Whirlwind of this, they are going to want the mower to display in their corporate headquarters. :thThumbsU
 

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Toro Whirlwind Museum
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Murray hurrah
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If you are looking for a full 100% reproduction there is a website www.clickitandstickit.com that will recreate the decals. You email them a picture and dimensions and they will make a new one. I'm doing that with my 1970's dynamark snowblower.


Old beats new any day!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Well, I sent off the files to that guy at clickitandstickit...we'll see what he says. They STILL have not approved my registration on the Torino forum...

I was also thinking about having him do that Tecumseh decal on the front of the engine if his prices aren't too crazy.

Here are the NOS wheels I installed. Unfortunately, these are not the correct wheels but they're darn close and I'd still rather have a brand new wheel that's slightly different. In case you're wondering what's different, the center ring on front side is larger than the original, and the back side has much more webbing for strength I assume. The fronts are part no. 17-4140 and the backs are 11-1329. The fronts were first used on the 1973 Toro Guardian but I can't find any mower that uses this back wheel. Since the style is identical to the front wheels, I would assume they were used on the same mowers.

The wheel bolts are another part finished with the Plasti-Kote 615 Chrome paint. You can see it's hardly chrome but looks actually like plating. :)
 

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Murray hurrah
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BYw that Toro looks sick. Honestly after it's done I wouldn't even use it. To perfect. I'd hate myself for the first scratch.


Old beats new any day!!!!
 
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