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Discussion Starter #1
This is the second time in only 65 operating hours that I've fired it up and it's only running on one cylinder.

Last time they replaced part number KOH24-584-52-S (Module Spark ADV DSA) under warranty at a stated cost of $89.29. My guess is it's this same issue again.

Does anybody know why this would be happening?

Does anybody know where this part is on the engine? It's a Kohler 27HP. The labor charge according to the work order from last time was only 1/10 of an hour, so this must be a piece of cake to change.

I'm ******. I sold an old, unreliable tractor for a new, unreliable tractor.
 

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How long ago did they replace it...if it was just recently I would expect them to do it for free... If your really fed up I will give you 100 bucks and take it off your hands:sidelaugh Seriously though, it sounds like an easy fix. See if the wires to the coil are all tight... Nothing suprises me anymore...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the link to the manuals, I've been looking at them for the past few minutes.

One thing that is baffling me - do you really need to disassemble half the motor to get to the electrical bits? Everything is hidden underneath a plastic baffle that has all kinds of stuff bolted to it.

I can't imagine Simplicity would only pay 1/10 of an hour warranty to replace this part if you have to disassemble so much to get to it. I can't seem to find it though, and the service manual even says that this ignition module is "optional", so it doesn't really reference it all that well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is the link to my service manual:

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_2450_c.pdf

On page 8.5 it shows two ignition modules, so my guess is that I've now blown the other one (bad batch of parts perhaps).

They are right up top near the flywheel.

I looked up the part number that was used on my warranty claim and found the attached parts diagram. Part #21 on the diagram is what it was, and as I now see from the service manual there are two of them. It appears that my engine does not have the "Spark advance module" that I referenced earlier, since I can't see it anywhere.

Now I still have to figure out how to get to the ignition modules...
 

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That definitely is not a 6 minute repair. If you want to attempt it yourself, first, see if both plugs still have spark. If not, you may have a bad coil. If you do, then there is another problem. Take the plug out of the good cylinder so you can determine if the bad one still has a compression stroke every 2 revolutions. If you feel compression every revolution,or no compression, remove the valve cover and look for the problem. In any case, use anti-seize compound on the small bolts that go into the head that retain the blower housing so you can remove them in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That definitely is not a 6 minute repair. If you want to attempt it yourself, first, see if both plugs still have spark. If not, you may have a bad coil. If you do, then there is another problem. Take the plug out of the good cylinder so you can determine if the bad one still has a compression stroke every 2 revolutions. If you feel compression every revolution,or no compression, remove the valve cover and look for the problem. In any case, use anti-seize compound on the small bolts that go into the head that retain the blower housing so you can remove them in the future.
I have a few questions:

1. So I do indeed have to disassemble everything to get to the ignition?
2. The compression check you recommend, are you thinking this may be a stuck valve? What are the odds?
3. Do I have to drain the oil before removing the valve cover?
4. As far as checking both plugs for spark, I've done that, and only the left side has spark. No spark on the right. (I think last time it was the left side that had trouble, so this supports my theory that the other module has gone this time)

I'm ready to tear into this since I may as well learn it now so when I need to replace modules every 30 hours I'll be good at it. :)
 

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1. and 3., No.
2. If you have no compression, a valve is stuck open. If you have a compression stroke every revolution, a valve is not opening, as in bent pushrod.
4. Since you are missing spark on one cylinder, that is probably the problem. Remove the blower housing and disconnect the ground wire from the cylinder that is not running. If it now fires, you have a problem in the kill circuit. You can run the engine shortly w/o the blower housing on, but keep in mind you'll have to pull the plug wire on that one cylinder to shut it off, assuming that solves the problem. If it doesn't, you'll need another coil, which is unusual, as I had many of those engines and never had a coil problem. The smart spark was another story, however.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
1. and 3., No.
I'm curious if you know offhand a trick for getting the blower shroud off. As it is from my personal inspection it looks like I'm going to have to remove:

1. Oil cooler
2. Fuel pump
3. Throttle and choke controls
4. Some other stuff...

The more I look at it the less I'm fearing it, but it sure does seem like a massive design flaw to hide all the electrics behind a plastic shroud that is a big PITA to take off. The thought of dremmeling through the shroud actually crossed my mind, but only for a minute. :eek:
 

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If it's under warranty I wouldn't touch it...and if you do, your remaining warranty is gone...why bother?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If it's under warranty I wouldn't touch it...and if you do, your remaining warranty is gone...why bother?
The warranty expired almost a year ago. I looked at the paperwork and the last time the ignition module went was almost 2 years ago, about a year after I bought it.

This one's on my dime.
 

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The warranty expired almost a year ago. I looked at the paperwork and the last time the ignition module went was almost 2 years ago, about a year after I bought it.

This one's on my dime.
I would push for a free dealer repair...obviously they knew there was a problem when they fixed the ONE cylinder...they should've known this was likely to occur in the other and do a little preventative maintenance while it was tore apart...after all, they're getting reimbursed for this and it was already apart it would've been very easy to replace both at the time...just my thoughts and what I would do.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would push for a free dealer repair...obviously they knew there was a problem when they fixed the ONE cylinder...they should've known this was likely to occur in the other and do a little preventative maintenance while it was tore apart...after all, they're getting reimbursed for this and it was already apart it would've been very easy to replace both at the time...just my thoughts and what I would do.
One year out of warranty, two years since the first occurrence, and you would push for a dealer courtesy repair? I personally think you'd be overreaching. IF there is a root cause here and not just simple component failure, I wouldn't expect a dealer to find it unless it could be duplicated in short order, much less two years later.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update: ALL FIXED!

I ordered the KOH24-584-52-S part from a local dealer this week and it came in today. Getting the fan shroud off was actually much easier than I thought, it's not really a big issue at all, it just takes a little time.

Sure enough, it was the other cylinder's ignition module that burned out as I suspected. I replaced with the new part, put it all back together, and all is well again.

Here's the (somewhat) interesting part - the part I took out was actually # KOH24-584-48-S, which was superseded by KOH24-584-52-S at some point, because that is what they replaced the other cylinder with when it blew while the tractor was under warranty. The new part that I just picked up has superseded KOH24-584-52-S, and is now KOH24-584-63-S! I'm going to call the Kohler customer service line and let them know I'm not impressed with their ignition coils. I don't know what will come of it but this little POS part just cost me $94 and a few hours of my life to get me whole again.
 
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