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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I finally snagged a 990. Think I drove a little too far, and paid a little too much, but she's a runner and she's pretty complete. The mower deck, snowblower (w/chains) and tiller all show some rust but seem to function smoothly.

THE GOOD:
Starts on the first or second flick of the key
Safety switches still work (couldn't start it once and thought I had a lemon until I realized I hadn't set the brake:banghead3)
Headlight circuit works
It's a "Concord" 990. I kind of like that it's a brand of 990 I've never heard of
Pto works
Hydro lift works
Transmission seems solid in high and low
Sheet metal all looks pretty good. Only tiny dent I see in a fender I think we did driving it home.:banghead3
She even has the little tool box on the rear
One owner machine with a full set of manuals

THE BAD:
She steers but I can feel some slipping in the steering gear
One tab is broken off of the 3pt hitch mount on the right hand axle
She's the old style with the big hole and requisite crack in the left hand frame rail (What's the deal with that?!)

THE UGLY:
This thing is dirty and has clearly spent a lot of time in the elements!
The seat is trashed, I don't even think one of my duct tape specials can save this one!
One broken headlight (hard to find?)
Somebody did an awful overspray rattle can paint job on her
The TomTom got us lost twice including giving us a primary route with a bridge that has been washed out for decades before TomToms were even invented.
When I turned over my JD 214 to tow the snowblower back to my shed mice came spilling out everywhere. Sure enough, I have to pull the tins again and clean out another mouse nest.
I'm having a little difficulty sorting through all the brackets, lift arms, etc that came with it, even with the manuals. I'll be back with questions!

Ok, I know you guys like pictures:

The unmistakable 990 headshot:


Concord brand apparently sold by National Lumber years ago:


Left/front:


Right/rear:


The dash, anyone know what goes in the hole?:


Dirty:


3pt arms:


Two views of the tiller:



Snow blower:


These things are supposed to keep my fingers out of the chute?


Mower deck, rusty but solid:



Last, but not least, does anyone know what this is?
 

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Finally at 1k!
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Looks like she is gonna take some work, but you got yourself a good start :thThumbsUi wonder if anyone has ever considered cutting a NEW axle tube out of solid steel on a lathe and welding on the 3pt ears?
 

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The hole in the dash is for the optional lighter. The round bracket is the PTO shield. Most of the time that shield is lost.
 

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The Magnificent
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Let's see. Paid too much means you gave $150 for the whole rig and had to drive 50 miles to get it. :ROF

I've seen much rougher rigs - yours is not bad at all.

The hole in the dash is for the cigarette lighter. The item in the last picture is of the belt guard.

You've got the scissor lift deck, so this is one of the older units. Can you read the full model number? Or make out the engine spec number on the shroud so we can figure out the year?

Anyway, congratulations!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Let's see. Paid too much means you gave $150 for the whole rig and had to drive 50 miles to get it. :ROF

Can you read the full model number? Or make out the engine spec number on the shroud so we can figure out the year?

Anyway, congratulations!
$500. It's an ok deal, no misrepresentation on the seller's part, but I might have taken a day to think about it if I hadn't had my buddy shlep all over New Hampshire following the TomTom! This is the one you turned me on to weeks ago (instead of turning off the game, I waited for a week when the Pats weren't playing:fing32:).

This is what I have on the paperwork for the engine: Model # 326431, Type # 0139-01, Code # 7403281 Does that help get a year?

Where do I look on the tractor for a serial #?
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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The Magnificent
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At $500, I'd not have thought too long at all. The accessories are worth that pretty easily. I only paid $75 for my snowblower, and Gary let me have a nice looking deck for $100, but the only tiller I've seen for sale by itself the guy would not come off $350. Honestly, he was justified, as the tiller was a nearly not used unit, but I already have a 48" for my 318.

BTW, since you have a complete blower, I wonder if you would make a tracing for me of that triangular plate on the PTO assembly? No rush, just whenever you get the urge to disassemble things. I have something rigged on mine which works, but I would like to get my buddy with the nice heavy metal brake to make me something close to original.

Thanks,
 

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The Magnificent
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Oh, serial number may be in one of several locations. On the steering pedestal below the dash, on the rear above the top link bracket, and I think one model had it under the hood.

That axle may be repairable, btw. Check with some welding shops.
 

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Congratulations!:drunkie:

I know you've been looking for a while.
And yet another store brand name to add to the list.



Anyone else notice there are an awful lot of '74 990s. It had to be their highest production year.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh, serial number may be in one of several locations. On the steering pedestal below the dash, on the rear above the top link bracket, and I think one model had it under the hood.

That axle may be repairable, btw. Check with some welding shops.
I found the serial number plate on the dash pedestal. It's faded but I am pretty sure it says BL 8404. Could that be right?
 

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The Magnificent
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I found the serial number plate on the dash pedestal. It's faded but I am pretty sure it says BL 8404. Could that be right?
It's entirely possible the vendor who sold it put their own model/serial number tag on it.

The tag on my Unicos is illegible, but looks nothing like the MTD format of 142-990 (14 for garden tractor, 2 for year either 1972 or 1982, and 990 for the model).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The PO gave me the broken tab from the 3pt connection on the axle. Assuming the cast iron can be welded, can the tab be reused? Also, would I have to remove the axle or can it be welded in place?
 

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Was that the 990 for sale in new Hampshire or Vermont I can't remember, on craigslist? I wish mine was that nice when I got it. It looks like you got a good deal
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Was that the 990 for sale in new Hampshire or Vermont I can't remember, on craigslist? I wish mine was that nice when I got it. It looks like you got a good deal
Yes, I think it's the one you mean. These don't show up very often, especially one owner machines, so I think you have to take a little more of a draw than you maybe do with an old Deere. He obviously cared about it. He gave me a box of all the parts he's replaced over time. I even got a spare lift cylinder, I guess it leaked at one time so he replaced it rather than rebuild it. I'm happy that it starts right up and seems to run strong. There is a lot right about it.
 

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They are tanks. I have only had mine for a month but I don't think I will ever sell it. All the things that can be done to it to modify it is endless. My only complaint is it likes gas which I also like because it means its got some nuts. Lol
 

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The Magnificent
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What
The PO gave me the broken tab from the 3pt connection on the axle. Assuming the cast iron can be welded, can the tab be reused? Also, would I have to remove the axle or can it be welded in place?
From what I got out of the 2,000,000 post welding thread, cast iron certainly is weldable. It requires substantial pre-heating which would require removal of the axle.

Definitely better left to a very competent welder IMO.
 

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Yeah good find, no complaints about the price either. Pressure wash will make the fuel tank look new but be careful with decals. The tiller is rare so good accessory set. And any questions post as always.

P.S. if you PM me a e-mail address I can send you a very detailed parts list with availability prices, including headlights which are more than available almost hard to pick what you want with different powers and angles
 

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Blacksmith
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You got the better tiller with the heavy blades that are replacable. To replace the seals on the cylinder you remove the fittings and the internal parts slide right out. The "O" rings you need are (1) #114 13/16 x 5/8 x 3/32 dia. for the rod - (3) #222 1 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 dia. for the piston and end caps. I hope this helps.
 

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