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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last night I picked up a non-running 111. Seems to be in fairly good shape for a '82. I put a battery in today to mess around with it. Has spark so I figured fuel? Sprayed just a shot of carb cleaner in it and it fired up and ran for a second. I added a bit of fuel to the tank but could not get it to run. Took off the fuel line but I'm not getting gas any so I figure its the fuel pump. Any one know of a good source for one? I did a quick Google search but did not find any.

I really have not looked for manuals yet so I have kind of a dumb question. There is no dip stick just a cap you unscrew. How do you tell if it has enough oil and how much will it hold?
 

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I can answer the oil but not the fuel pump. directly from the manual: oil level should be full to the point of overflowing. make sure you check it daily with use in case there is an oil leak. I didn't at first and I had to replace the whole motor because it melted together..:banghead3
 

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The fuel pump is the little box on the left (correction) side of the engine. It should have 3 hoses on it. 1 fuel feed from the tank, 1 the feed to the carbarator, 1 the vacumn line from the engine. I just had to rebuild mine with parts from a 108 because I couldn't find a cheep one. JD does still have them for like $85. There is a fuel cut off on the bottom of the tank. It would could be kind of hard to get to if you have a deck on it. It is located under the flat area just in front of the seat. If you look from the underside, there is a brass knob towards the front of a black plastic box. You have to be looking from the front of the rear wheels. Hope my description didn't confuse you more.
 

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You can put on a current model fuel pump if you want, way cheaper than the original like the previous post said. Part LG808656, you can buy it from John Deere or Briggs Deal for $25 to $30. I put one on 108 and one on a 111, works fine. I saved old pumps to rebuild when I get time.

To get my non-running 111 started it took, taking the spark plug out 5-6 times and putting a couple drops of gas in each time, it would run for a few secs and do it again. After the 6th time, the pump caught up and was pumping fuel. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I will go with the current style, thanks for the part number. $30 sounds much better than $85.

I will have to look for that fuel shut off. I did not know they had one. It will be much nicer than having gas drip all over when I do this.
 

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When I was working on my 111
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=205271
I used an old snapper tank run to the carb to get it running because it was doing like yours. It ran good with the gravity flow so I knew it was the fuel pump or something blocking the fuel between the pump and the tank. I had to TAKE THE CAP OFF THE TANK and blow air through the line going to the fuel pump. The cut-off Buckeye Hunter reffured to has a screen on it that I believe was clogged on mine. The valve can be pulled out but I was afraid the 30 year old rubber grommet might not reseal.
Cannon
 

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I just went through a similar deal with a 111.

I'd suggest removing the bowl on the carb and making sure the gas is drained from it and the bowl is clean and the float works. I also took the fuel pump apart - not a lot to it and check to see if it was deteriorated. I then primed the pump by putting some pressure into the tank with an air hose and the feed line off the carb. Once I got fuel at the pump I put it back together and started it up. Had to choke it out by hand for a bit and it started to run smoothly. It starts and idles great now - after leaving it run with some seafoam for several minutes.

Oh yeah - I almost forgot - I blew air backwards through the feed hose on the tank and then forward through the tank to make sure there wasn't anything blocking the fuel flow.
 

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here is a pic of the new fuel pump. I had to have a new fuel pump because one of the inlets for the gas from the tank was broken off. The suggestion of priming the pump is great. It took several times priming the engine with a few drops of gas in the cylinder before the new pump started to draw gas. It would be the same if the old pump is dry as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will mess around with it a bit more today. I will make sure the lines are all clear and prime it all with some air in the tank. I have an old MTD that needs the tank taken off and cleaned out so maybe I will do that and use it to suction feed as a test. If it runs with that I will take the fuel pump off and check it out.

Cannon51, that looked like quite a project saving the deck. Sure turned out nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
here is a pic of the new fuel pump. I had to have a new fuel pump because one of the inlets for the gas from the tank was broken off. The suggestion of priming the pump is great. It took several times priming the engine with a few drops of gas in the cylinder before the new pump started to draw gas. It would be the same if the old pump is dry as well.
Thanks for the picture. Did you have to drill new holes to mount it? Also was it fairly easy to see where all the lines hook up to? If it could be hooked up backward I would find a way to do it.
 

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I utilized an existing hole from the original fuel pump. You have to take off the engine cover. Remove two screws from the starter cover and four bolts from the engine cover and it pulls off. Remove two screws from the inside of the cover to remove the old fuel pump. I then used a long bolt through an existing hole, be careful that the head of bolt doesnt hit the fly wheel. I also used lock washers. In the pic you can see where the old pump was mounted it is silver on the engine cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just used the compressor to blow some air in the tank and prime the system. Now I think I'm getting to much fuel. I took the needle screw out thats on the bottom of the fuel bowl on the carb to see if there was gas in the bowl. Does anyone know how far I should screw it back in? I can re-adjust when/if it starts but initially should it be closer to all the way in or all the way out? I now get fuel dripping from the bottom of the carb when I crank it.
 

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I just used the compressor to blow some air in the tank and prime the system. Now I think I'm getting to much fuel. I took the needle screw out thats on the bottom of the fuel bowl on the carb to see if there was gas in the bowl. Does anyone know how far I should screw it back in? I can re-adjust when/if it starts but initially should it be closer to all the way in or all the way out? I now get fuel dripping from the bottom of the carb when I crank it.
Tighten the nut around the screw on the bottom of the bowl to stop the leak. I started with the screw about half and just messed with it till it ran better.
 

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You're getting a lot of really good advise.

I often have to start my 111 by putting gas in the carb if it hasn't been started all Winter. After that it starts great.

I'll just add -- be sure the gas cap vent is open. Be sure the gas lines aren't cracked/rotten. You really need a 111 manual. It explains the carb adjustment in detail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You're getting a lot of really good advise.

I often have to start my 111 by putting gas in the carb if it hasn't been started all Winter. After that it starts great.

I'll just add -- be sure the gas cap vent is open. Be sure the gas lines aren't cracked/rotten. You really need a 111 manual. It explains the carb adjustment in detail.
Yes, I appreciate all the good advise. Sure are a lot of folks on here with an incredible amount of knowledge on these.

I'm waiting for my battery to charge up again so I can mess with it a bit more. Looks like the lines have all been replaced not too long ago but I will check the cap (more really good advise).

I will definitely look for a manual. Hopefully I can find one on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Charged the battery up overnight so I could mess with it today. Still would hardly turn over and the starter was not disengaging. Tried another old starter I had and it did the same thing. Turned the motor by hand with a long screwdriver and the motor seemed very hard to turn. Must be some internal issue. Kind of strange as it turned over fine with the starter when I got it. Guess I will have to look into which engines will swap right in. Its a 11 hp B&S so hopefully any B&S will work? I'm betting an old original 11 HP will be hard to find.
 

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Charged the battery up overnight so I could mess with it today. Still would hardly turn over and the starter was not disengaging. Tried another old starter I had and it did the same thing. Turned the motor by hand with a long screwdriver and the motor seemed very hard to turn. Must be some internal issue. Kind of strange as it turned over fine with the starter when I got it. Guess I will have to look into which engines will swap right in. Its a 11 hp B&S so hopefully any B&S will work? I'm betting an old original 11 HP will be hard to find.
There is a newer 12 hp B&S that a lot of people swap into them. My blower tractor has one that the last owner did. I can get you a model # later. It appears to be pretty simple.
 

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Man...you seem to jump to conclusions before testing has ended. If it started and ran fine, and nothing really has changed - I think I might question the battery before I jumped to removing and replacing the engine. Is it a new battery or one you've had sitting round awhile? When I worked on my 111 I hooked up the charger to the battery and then tried starting the engine with it in place.

Pull the spark plug and turn the engine over by hand - see what resistance you have there... I'd do a lot more with this engine in place 1st before I removed it and looked to replace it. These really are pretty simple but sweet running little BS engines.
 
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