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Do you really NEED a new tank? I thought it looked pretty good after you worked on it. I would guess a couple of my tanks would leak if I had the tank out and tilted it to the left, but they do not leak when the tractor is in use.

IF you do need a tank, I agree that buying new, with the extra parts included, for less than $200, is a better option than $100 for a used tank.
I'm kinda here as well. If I was doing it I'd put a couple rubber orings on that cap and run it. See if it sealed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #122
Several other places have a better price than Parts Tree, on that part #.

My local CC dealer, is usually as cheap, or cheaper than, Parts Tree,
and I prefer to buy locally when price is similar.
PartsTree is always expensive, they have good parts diagrams though. My local Cub dealer blows, I'd rather give him a black eye than a nickel of my money. There is a better dealer about an hour away but it's a little out of the way.

Do you really NEED a new tank? I thought it looked pretty good after you worked on it. I would guess a couple of my tanks would leak if I had the tank out and tilted it to the left, but they do not leak when the tractor is in use.

IF you do need a tank, I agree that buying new, with the extra parts included, for less than $200, is a better option than $100 for a used tank.
I think so. I thought it looked pretty good too but it still leaks. I'll take a better close up picture to show the distortion.

That is the cheapest one I've found with shipping accounted for. I'd like to call and confirm they have it in stock before I order it from them.
 

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Discussion Starter #123
Okay here are some pictures. You can see it's just ever slightly distorted. Maybe it never was 100% perfect? Either way I know it leaked when I had water in it and turned it sideways. It may just be me getting overly picky.

20200119_184528.jpg

20200119_184548.jpg
 

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Joe if you are gonna replace it anyway why not go for broke on it? Heat it up and put something flat and heavy on it to flatten it out.

Go or blow baby!
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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Okay here are some pictures. You can see it's just ever slightly distorted. Maybe it never was 100% perfect? Either way I know it leaked when I had water in it and turned it sideways. It may just be me getting overly picky.

View attachment 2444253
View attachment 2444254
Would heating it up and screwing the cap down tight be worth a try to see if it would form to the cap.
 

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I think that looks better than a couple of mine. Unless you roll it over, it is not going to leak out any significant amount of gas and with the gas cap in place it should not allow any water to get in.
 

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I think that looks better than a couple of mine. Unless you roll it over, it is not going to leak out any significant amount of gas and with the gas cap in place it should not allow any water to get in.
Mine was smelling like gas after running it but it was the sending unit seal. The filler neck is pretty high in relation to the gas in the tank.
 

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PartsTree is always expensive, they have good parts diagrams though. My local Cub dealer blows, I'd rather give him a black eye than a nickel of my money. There is a better dealer about an hour away but it's a little out of the way.

Actually, that Parts Tree parts diagrams are crappy these days.

The diagrams are MUCH clearer(but the prices are not great) at this site:


I usually look at the diagram/s and get part #/s at that site and then Google Search the part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Would heating it up and screwing the cap down tight be worth a try to see if it would form to the cap.
I don't know if it would be better to heat it up and reshape it or try to sand/file it down.

I think that looks better than a couple of mine. Unless you roll it over, it is not going to leak out any significant amount of gas and with the gas cap in place it should not allow any water to get in.
I thought it was pretty good until it leaked. I do have some really steep hills and a bad habit of filling gas tanks to the very top.

Mine was smelling like gas after running it but it was the sending unit seal. The filler neck is pretty high in relation to the gas in the tank.
I've got new seals for both the sender and the pickup tube. I would think a little bit of wavyness on the fill neck is almost normal, but I looked at my 1525 that uses the same fuel cap and it's fill neck is straight as a die.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
I guess you guys are right. I think sanding is the method with the highest chance of success. Probably 150-220 grit on a big block. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens.
 

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I believe I would try filing and sanding it first. As has already been stated before you have nothing to lose as you are already contemplating replacing it. Personally, I think it will work.
 

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This:



Is a good option for preventing filler neck damage in the future.

NOTE: There are MANY pumps that are SIMILAR to this, but*THIS ONE* IS BETTER THAN THE OTHERS(I have several different versions) that I have/have tried. It holds 3 AA Batteries, most others take Ds or 2 AAs
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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Joe there is one other thing you may want to consider while you have the tractor apart is the mow in reverse safety that is controlled by the reverse pedal switch. It is a DPDT switch which controls your reverse lights and the mow in reverse. I'm not trying to suggest you bypass it as it is an important safety feature.;)
 

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Joe there is one other thing you may want to consider while you have the tractor apart is the mow in reverse safety that is controlled by the reverse pedal switch. It is a DPDT switch which controls your reverse lights and the mow in reverse. I'm not trying to suggest you bypass it as it is an important safety feature.;)
Does a 1999 model year have the the don't mow in reverse feature?

My GT3100 and GT3200s have it, but my 3206(I think 2001 MY)and 3240(2001 MY) do not, unless it was deactivated by PO/s before I got them.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Thanks for the replies guys. I'm going to try to put my OCD perfectionism aside and see if I can knock the high spots down and get it relatively straight. I'll run it for a while and if it leaks I can always swap the tank later.

This:



Is a good option for preventing filler neck damage in the future.

NOTE: There are MANY pumps that are SIMILAR to this, but*THIS ONE* IS BETTER THAN THE OTHERS(I have several different versions) that I have/have tried. It holds 3 AA Batteries, most others take Ds or 2 AAs
Joel that seems like a great idea. Much better than holding a heavy 5 gallon can up and spilling it all over regardless. Especially with these new idiot proof safety cans.


Joe there is one other thing you may want to consider while you have the tractor apart is the mow in reverse safety that is controlled by the reverse pedal switch. It is a DPDT switch which controls your reverse lights and the mow in reverse. I'm not trying to suggest you bypass it as it is an important safety feature.;)
I'm not implying that it isn't an important safety feature but I also may or may not have a box of jumper wires already made up for diagnostic purposes only. Lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Ya know, you guys are alright! I got home and got the tank, stuffed the fill neck with some paper towel to keep as much sanding debris out of the tank as possible, then took some 100 grit sandpaper on a block and sanded until it looked flat. Obviously it's just plastic so it didn't take long. After that I took a purple sharpie and marked the sanded portion, then hit it with some 240 grit. All the purple sharpie wash gone after just a few passes so it must be pretty straight. Then I finished it off with some 320 grit to make it a little smoother.

I filled it up with a gallon or so of water and put the cap on tight, turned it 90° sideways for 15 or 20 seconds, and no leaks from around the cap! It poured from the vent but all I care is that the cap seals right.

I dumped the water out and I'm gonna let it dry out completely before I reinstall the sending unit and pickup tube. But thanks to the encouragement from you guys, that's $200 I don't have to spend.

20200120_161710.jpg
20200120_161733.jpg
20200120_161126.jpg
 

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Ya know, you guys are alright! I got home and got the tank, stuffed the fill neck with some paper towel to keep as much sanding debris out of the tank as possible, then took some 100 grit sandpaper on a block and sanded until it looked flat. Obviously it's just plastic so it didn't take long. After that I took a purple sharpie and marked the sanded portion, then hit it with some 240 grit. All the purple sharpie wash gone after just a few passes so it must be pretty straight. Then I finished it off with some 320 grit to make it a little smoother.

I filled it up with a gallon or so of water and put the cap on tight, turned it 90° sideways for 15 or 20 seconds, and no leaks from around the cap! It poured from the vent but all I care is that the cap seals right.

I dumped the water out and I'm gonna let it dry out completely before I reinstall the sending unit and pickup tube. But thanks to the encouragement from you guys, that's $200 I don't have to spend.

View attachment 2444302 View attachment 2444303 View attachment 2444304
Nice!. Man I'm glad that worked out for you. $200 is nearly half the price I paid for my 3240. No way would I spend that on a gas tank unless that thing assploded on me. :D
 
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