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Discussion Starter #101
Red is the choke cable.
Ok, my cables are backward of yours. The forward cable is the throttle and the rear cable is the choke. Not sure why mine are like that but I checked a picture from before I took it apart and that was how they were. One thing I noticed is that I can't use the full range of the choke lever. The choke is all the way open in the 'open' position, but the choke flap closes 100% at about 3/4ths to 7/8ths of the way up on the lever. Any ideas?

Behind the flywheel didn't look wet with oil from a leaking seal but for all the more it cost for the seal I think you were smart to replace it anyways while you had it apart.
I agree, the seal was cheap and easy to replace once I was that far. No reason not to at that point.

Solid work Joe. Man, that stator was one crusty critter. Glad the gas filler neck stayed straight. Looking good. You are doing great work and are gonna have a nice GT to use for many years.
Thanks Steve, I'm definitely glad I pulled the flywheel to clean back there.

Does anyone have a torque spec for the driveshaft bolts? It probably doesn't matter much, but if someone has it I'll use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #102

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Discussion Starter #103
Here are a couple pictures of the carb linkage from before and after I disassembled and after I reassembled.

Before-
20200111_104619.jpg
20200110_151516.jpg


After-
20200118_120242.jpg
20200118_120301.jpg
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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Ok, my cables are backward of yours. The forward cable is the throttle and the rear cable is the choke. Not sure why mine are like that but I checked a picture from before I took it apart and that was how they were. One thing I noticed is that I can't use the full range of the choke lever. The choke is all the way open in the 'open' position, but the choke flap closes 100% at about 3/4ths to 7/8ths of the way up on the lever. Any ideas?



I agree, the seal was cheap and easy to replace once I was that far. No reason not to at that point.



Thanks Steve, I'm definitely glad I pulled the flywheel to clean back there.

Does anyone have a torque spec for the driveshaft bolts? It probably doesn't matter much, but if someone has it I'll use it.
Adjusting the position of the cable in the cable clamp will alter the position of the lever at the choke fully closed. What's important is that it's adjusted for the full range of the choke flapper and not lever position. As far as your cables in your before pics I don't know why they were that way. I have three tractors that are all the same as the pic I posted.Maybe someone else will chime in with a pic of theirs.
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited by Moderator)
Adjusting the position of the cable in the cable clamp will alter the position of the lever at the choke fully closed. What's important is that it's adjusted for the full range of the choke flapper and not lever position. As far as your cables in your before pics I don't know why they were that way. I have three tractors that are all the same as the pic I posted.Maybe someone else will chime in with a pic of theirs.
I can adjust the cable so that the "extra" travel in the lever is either at the full open or full closed position, or a little at each end. Regardless the choke flap does have full travel. I just don't want to forget about it one day and slam it all the way up and bind the linkage or break something. I don't know why the cables were like that either. The way your tractor is set up looks more correct.

I did work on the tractor some more today. I started out by removing the gas tank and testing my repair. I filled the tank up with some water and put the cap on then turned the tank side ways. It still leaks. Not just from the vent either, it leaks from around the cap. Its looking like I'm going to need a replacement gas tank. I pulled the pickup tube and the sending unit out of the tank and set them aside. The sending unit was a pain in the *** to remove. I thought I was going to break it, fortunately I didn't. I'm going to give Patton Acres a call on Monday and see if they have a good used tank in stock.

Next I went after the spool valve. I disconnected the lines, unbolted it from the frame and removed the handle, then brushed the dirt off of it and got it on the bench. I removed the snap ring and pulled the spool out. I cleaned things as best I could with q-tips and paper towels. I taped up the spool to get the o-rings to slide over easier. I found sliding the o-rings on to be the most difficult part of the whole job. I stretched a couple of them a little further than I was comfortable doing, so I removed them and used different ones. They probably would've been fine but that's my OCD kicking in. Thanks to Steve for sending me extras. After I got the new o-rings on, I reinstalled the spool being careful to keep the arrow pointed in the correct direction. Then I took the whole assembly and reconnected the lines with new o-rings and reinstalled the handle with new bushings. I had it basically all back together then realized that I forgot to install the snap ring. Oops. So I had to partially remove it and get the snap ring back in. Not too big of a deal.

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20200118_155657.jpg


About that time the mail came and much to my surprise, my pedal bushings arrived. I wasn't expecting them until Tuesday. So I went back to the garage and installed the 3 small ones including the one at the transaxle and the two large ones. Also an FYI on pedal bushings, the diff lock pedal uses two bushings and they are the same ones as the spool valve handle bushings. I had a 5 pack of them so I changed those out too.

20200118_153906.jpg


20200118_155648.jpg


Now I just need to sort out the fuel tank and I can put the rest of the tractor back together and start it up. I'm going to be doing fluid and filter changes but I want to run it for 10 minutes or so before I changed them to try to rinse out any dirt I may have kicked up. I probably want to do a once-over and make sure everything is connected and tight just because I had so much stuff disassembled.

20200118_160312.jpg
 

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Joe, looks like you have it going your way. I've done the same on the orings--not trusting that I didn't damage them and chucking them. That's just smart work.

The pic I posted of the oring bags has all the info you need to order them. They are buna-N orings. 011 is the line and back up oring size. If the pic doesn't help I'll take another look for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Joe, looks like you have it going your way. I've done the same on the orings--not trusting that I didn't damage them and chucking them. That's just smart work.

The pic I posted of the oring bags has all the info you need to order them. They are buna-N orings. 011 is the line and back up oring size. If the pic doesn't help I'll take another look for ya.
Thanks Steve. I tend to be really critical of my own work. I worked in auto body for about 8 years and during that time I became very picky about small details.

I think I'd like to order a couple bags of those o-rings from McMaster, just to have for peace of mind. I still have some extras from what you gave me. I'll check out McMaster's website and let you know if I need any more info on them.

Check out this old commercial that popped up in my YouTube recommendations-

 

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That's awesome! Too bad they didn't show any of the capabilities of it besides mowing.

Hey I just went out and took a pic of my 3240's cables for you. My choke cable is in front and throttle is in back.

2444161
 

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Discussion Starter #109
That's awesome! Too bad they didn't show any of the capabilities of it besides mowing.

Hey I just went out and took a pic of my 3240's cables for you. My choke cable is in front and throttle is in back.

View attachment 2444161
Yeah as heavy duty as these tractors are, they were pretty conservative on the advertising for them.

Looks like your cables are set up the same way as mine. I guess they used multiple arrangements for them from the factory. Good to know.

Does anyone know the procedure for adjusting the governor arm on the shaft? I looked in the Kohler service book but the directions weren't very clear so I set it the way I usually set governors- turn the shaft as far as it will go clockwise, then pulled the governor arm until the throttle flap is totally shut, then tightened the governor arm down.
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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Yeah as heavy duty as these tractors are, they were pretty conservative on the advertising for them.

Looks like your cables are set up the same way as mine. I guess they used multiple arrangements for them from the factory. Good to know.

Does anyone know the procedure for adjusting the governor arm on the shaft? I looked in the Kohler service book but the directions weren't very clear so I set it the way I usually set governors- turn the shaft as far as it will go clockwise, then pulled the governor arm until the throttle flap is totally shut, then tightened the governor arm down.
From page 85 of the Kohler manual I have.

Install External Governor Controls 1. Install governor lever onto governor cross shaft. 2. Make sure throttle linkage is connected to governor lever and throttle lever on carburetor. 3. Move governor lever toward carburetor as far as it will go (wide-open throttle) and hold in position. 4. Insert a nail into hole on cross shaft and rotate shaft counterclockwise as far as it will turn, then torque nut to 6.8 N·m (60 in. lb.).
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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Yeah as heavy duty as these tractors are, they were pretty conservative on the advertising for them.

Looks like your cables are set up the same way as mine. I guess they used multiple arrangements for them from the factory. Good to know.

Does anyone know the procedure for adjusting the governor arm on the shaft? I looked in the Kohler service book but the directions weren't very clear so I set it the way I usually set governors- turn the shaft as far as it will go clockwise, then pulled the governor arm until the throttle flap is totally shut, then tightened the governor arm down.
I attached a document that shows where the cables should be installed on pg 17 and it shows the way yours and Steve's are. I'm quite surprised I have 3 tractors that are configured as in my pic. I believe they will work either way when adjusted properly but the factory connections are on page 17.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
From page 85 of the Kohler manual I have.

Install External Governor Controls 1. Install governor lever onto governor cross shaft. 2. Make sure throttle linkage is connected to governor lever and throttle lever on carburetor. 3. Move governor lever toward carburetor as far as it will go (wide-open throttle) and hold in position. 4. Insert a nail into hole on cross shaft and rotate shaft counterclockwise as far as it will turn, then torque nut to 6.8 N·m (60 in. lb.).
Awesome thank you! So I basically just did it backwards. I went full closed throttle and turned the gov. shaft clockwise. I'll adjust it per these directions tomorrow.


I attached a document that shows where the cables should be installed on pg 17 and it shows the way yours and Steve's are. I'm quite surprised I have 3 tractors that are configured as in my pic. I believe they will work either way when adjusted properly but the factory connections are on page 17.
Very interesting. What's odd to me is the position of the cables in the clamps. Look at mine, then Steve's, then look at the manual. I dont think it really matters, but all 3 are different.
 

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Strange commercial, seems to be for 3000 series Cubs, but the mowing tractor is a 2000 series. Sorry, a pet peeve, I hate movies that use cheaper substitutes and think we are so dumb we won't notice. Remember "Vanishing Point", the guy is driving a Hemi Mopar with a Doug Nash 5-speed and when he piles it into the bulldozers at the end, the rear quarter panel that is sticking up is from a Camaro.

Bill
 

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Strange commercial, seems to be for 3000 series Cubs, but the mowing tractor is a 2000 series. Sorry, a pet peeve, I hate movies that use cheaper substitutes and think we are so dumb we won't notice. Remember "Vanishing Point", the guy is driving a Hemi Mopar with a Doug Nash 5-speed and when he piles it into the bulldozers at the end, the rear quarter panel that is sticking up is from a Camaro.

Bill
Thought I was losing my mind on that commercial. Watching on my phone so not a big screen I was seeing 2000 series wheels one turn then 3000, 2000 bumper then 3000. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
I was just glad to find any advertising stuff on them at all, there doesn't seem to be much out there in the ways of commercials or signs or brochures or anything.

Does anyone know if the new gas tank part number 651-3002A includes the cap, the sending unit and pickup tube? I can get the new tank for $200 shipped and the picture shows a new cap sending unit and pickup tube installed, but I want to make sure that stuff is actually included. This is the picture shown for the part-

651-3002A.jpg


A used tank is gonna run me over $100 anyways so honestly I may as well just get the new one, especially if it includes the other parts.
 

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Tank Assembly, Fuel
Part# 651-3002A
Note: Includes Ref. Nos. 3,5,7 and 8
OEM Warranty Repair Part for Cub Cadet
Usually leaves our warehouse in 3 to 6 business days

COPIED AND PASTED FROM PARTS TREE WEBSITE

 

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Discussion Starter #117
Tank Assembly, Fuel
Part# 651-3002A
Note: Includes Ref. Nos. 3,5,7 and 8
OEM Warranty Repair Part for Cub Cadet
Usually leaves our warehouse in 3 to 6 business days

COPIED AND PASTED FROM PARTS TREE WEBSITE

Thanks Joel, I missed that. For $200 shipped it seems like the way to go. I'll keep the grommets I ordered and the old sending unit and pickup tube as spares.
 

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Several other places have a better price than Parts Tree, on that part #.

My local CC dealer, is usually as cheap, or cheaper than, Parts Tree,
and I prefer to buy locally when price is similar.
 

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Do you really NEED a new tank? I thought it looked pretty good after you worked on it. I would guess a couple of my tanks would leak if I had the tank out and tilted it to the left, but they do not leak when the tractor is in use.

IF you do need a tank, I agree that buying new, with the extra parts included, for less than $200, is a better option than $100 for a used tank.
 

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