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Ejl in Pa.
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Well that compressor sure came in handy cleaning up these things today-

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I found these on craigslist about an hour away. Guy had an ad with no pictures saying he was parting out tractors. So I texted and asked if he had any 3000s, he said yes. So I asked if any of them had front hydraulics, he said he didn't know, but he'd check and get back to me. I didn't hear from him for a couple days, but then he texted me and said one of them has 3 hydraulic handles if that's what I was looking for. I said yeah, that's what I need, so I asked for a price for all of the handles, valves and lines. He said he wasn't sure of the condition of the lines and he wasn't crawling underneath to check. Still he said he'd take $75 for everything, but I had to pull it. I couldn't say yes fast enough. So I met him today and I know why he wanted me to pull the stuff. This was the rustiest tractor I've ever seen in my life. He said the guy who owned it used it to salt and plow snow and never cleaned it. It was parked in the middle of a field with about 50 other lawn tractors. He told me he didn't care what I had to do to get them off. So I worked through the rust and the mud and removed the valves, handles, lines and the ends.

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The lines are unsurprisingly rusted through but the ends are good I think. All the valves move free. I'm certain they need all the o-rings. All I've done so far was blow them off with air compressor and loosen the nuts and bolts on them. They are gonna need some more clean up, maybe some Evapo-Rust. I'm not sure what to do about the lines. Not sure if a hydraulic shop can make them or something, but they are expensive from Cub.

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Still, for $75 I think I did okay.
I got a similar deal for $50.00. Both lines but only the two aux. valves and handles. Lines were in great shape as well. Once in a while you find someone who doesn't know the value of what they have. Answered an ad for a front hitch with lift and angle for $50.00. When I went there he had a tractor with three valves that he sold me the front hitch off of and another guy the snowblower. I asked if he would sell me the two valves and lines since he didn't need them anymore and he said yes if I took them off for an additional $50.00. I couldn't get the money out of my wallet and the tools out of my truck fast enough.
 

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Ejl in Pa.
Joined
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240 Posts
Well that compressor sure came in handy cleaning up these things today-

View attachment 2445091

View attachment 2445092

View attachment 2445093

View attachment 2445094

I found these on craigslist about an hour away. Guy had an ad with no pictures saying he was parting out tractors. So I texted and asked if he had any 3000s, he said yes. So I asked if any of them had front hydraulics, he said he didn't know, but he'd check and get back to me. I didn't hear from him for a couple days, but then he texted me and said one of them has 3 hydraulic handles if that's what I was looking for. I said yeah, that's what I need, so I asked for a price for all of the handles, valves and lines. He said he wasn't sure of the condition of the lines and he wasn't crawling underneath to check. Still he said he'd take $75 for everything, but I had to pull it. I couldn't say yes fast enough. So I met him today and I know why he wanted me to pull the stuff. This was the rustiest tractor I've ever seen in my life. He said the guy who owned it used it to salt and plow snow and never cleaned it. It was parked in the middle of a field with about 50 other lawn tractors. He told me he didn't care what I had to do to get them off. So I worked through the rust and the mud and removed the valves, handles, lines and the ends.

View attachment 2445100

The lines are unsurprisingly rusted through but the ends are good I think. All the valves move free. I'm certain they need all the o-rings. All I've done so far was blow them off with air compressor and loosen the nuts and bolts on them. They are gonna need some more clean up, maybe some Evapo-Rust. I'm not sure what to do about the lines. Not sure if a hydraulic shop can make them or something, but they are expensive from Cub.

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Still, for $75 I think I did okay.
You should of bought the cast iron differential too.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Dang Joe, great score! The problem with making the lines is the special end that goes in the valves. There are some shops that can do it. I think Pfreiburger had some made awhile back.

Alternatively you can buy deck lift hoses off ebay and remove the ends and have rubber lines made like I did.
Thanks Steve, I'm pretty excited about it. I'll have to look around and see if I can find a shop that can possibly make lines or otherwise keep an eye out for used ones.

Joe, is that the guy that I pointed you to?

That is a GREAT DEAL, even if you can't use the lines. The valves alone are worth way more than that.

New lines are about $75 each from CC, but this place appears to have them for $5x.xx each. Search - 727-3142

I remember when I was looking at the cost of piecing things together and I found that CC wants $2x.xx for each of the little "couplers" that connect the valves together, so $5x.xx per line does not seem too excessive.
Thanks Joel, this guy was actually in Mt. Pleasant PA. I messaged the guy you pointed me to and he said he only had sheet metal, a rear end, a frame and wheels and tires. Good find on the cheaper lines. I'll let you know what I decide to do.

I got a similar deal for $50.00. Both lines but only the two aux. valves and handles. Lines were in great shape as well. Once in a while you find someone who doesn't know the value of what they have. Answered an ad for a front hitch with lift and angle for $50.00. When I went there he had a tractor with three valves that he sold me the front hitch off of and another guy the snowblower. I asked if he would sell me the two valves and lines since he didn't need them anymore and he said yes if I took them off for an additional $50.00. I couldn't get the money out of my wallet and the tools out of my truck fast enough.
Interestingly enough, this guy was well aware of what these things are worth. When I first showed up, he said "You know cub charges over $200 for one of those valve bodies?" I said yeah, that's why I was so quick to take him up on his offer. He had a lot of other tractors and 3000 series weren't really his thing. He had a lot of cyclops and 82 series though.

You should of bought the cast iron differential too.
Honestly I thought about making an offer in it, but the tractor was so rusty you'd literally have to cut the tractor away from the rear end to get it out. There was no way it would just unbolt and drop out.
 

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Found the thread where DMAC had some 3000 series lines built by a shop with their info.

 

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Discussion Starter #205
Found the thread where DMAC had some 3000 series lines built by a shop with their info.

Awesome Steve, thanks. I'll give them a call tomorrow. Hopefully they can make them a little cheaper than Cub Cadet sells them for.
 

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Awesome Steve, thanks. I'll give them a call tomorrow. Hopefully they can make them a little cheaper than Cub Cadet sells them for.
No problem. I remembered reading that when learning about spool valve expansion. Took a bit of searching but I found it.
 

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Discussion Starter #208
No problem. I remembered reading that when learning about spool valve expansion. Took a bit of searching but I found it.
Yeah, I tried searching and must've missed it. Good information.

If you have a hydraulic shop near you they can normally fabricate rubber lines for you.
The ends are still good, I'm wondering if a hydraulic shop can cut and reuse the ends and crimp them onto hydraulic hoses. I think the front quick connect ends are just standard hydraulic fittings. I'm wondering how difficult it would be to route flexible rubber hoses without them rubbing them hitting the tire.
 

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Yeah, I tried searching and must've missed it. Good information.



The ends are still good, I'm wondering if a hydraulic shop can cut and reuse the ends and crimp them onto hydraulic hoses. I think the front quick connect ends are just standard hydraulic fittings. I'm wondering how difficult it would be to route flexible rubber hoses without them rubbing them hitting the tire.
You can't cut the steel lines and have them put in rubber hose as they have no barb or retainer ring to hold them on. Look at my ends I cut out of deck lift hoses and you'll see the ring at the front of the barb. The ferrule clamps inside that ring as a retainer for the hose.

Routing isn't a problem on them. My hoses cost $125 to make but I did supply the spool valve side hose ends. Mine wouldn't have been that expensive except all the 1/4" hose he had was 5800psi hose which is very expensive per foot.
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Discussion Starter #211
You can't cut the steel lines and have them put in rubber hose as they have no barb or retainer ring to hold them on. Look at my ends I cut out of deck lift hoses and you'll see the ring at the front of the barb. The ferrule clamps inside that ring as a retainer for the hose.

Routing isn't a problem on them. My hoses cost $125 to make but I did supply the spool valve side hose ends. Mine wouldn't have been that expensive except all the 1/4" hose he had was 5800psi hose which is very expensive per foot.
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Ohhhkay, I'm beginning to understand. I thought maybe they could press a barb fitting or put a flare on the cut end of the line or something.
 

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Ohhhkay, I'm beginning to understand. I thought maybe they could press a barb fitting or put a flare on the cut end of the line or something.
A flare may be an option. Never hurts to ask.
 

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A flare may be an option. Never hurts to ask.
Glad to see the routing isn't a problem. I'm gonna take one down to a hydraulic shop and see what they say. I know close to nothing about this stuff so I'm just throwing ideas out. I'm gonna try to get the valve assembly on the bench today and start tearing into it.
 

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If you have ends that are in good condition(lift valve lines, lines that feed into the spool valves etc.) I would think that you could cut the ends off, use compression fittings and make the rest of the lines out of steel or NiCopp(I love NiCopp). These systems do not have huge pressures, 650 PSI relief valves are normally used, so I think normal compression fittings would work fine. Swagelok fittings would definitely handle the pressures, but are a bit more expensive.



I don't use compression fittings on brake lines, but I have worked on vehicles where someone else had installed them. If they withstand auto brake line pressures they should easily withstand 3000 Series Hydro pressures, and if one should fail, it would likely not be a big deal(compared to auto brake line failure)
 

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If you have ends that are in good condition(lift valve lines, lines that feed into the spool valves etc.) I would think that you could cut the ends off, use compression fittings and make the rest of the lines out of steel or NiCopp(I love NiCopp). These systems do not have huge pressures, 650 PSI relief valves are normally used, so I think normal compression fittings would work fine. Swagelok fittings would definitely handle the pressures, but are a bit more expensive.



I don't use compression fittings on brake lines, but I have worked on vehicles where someone else had installed them. If they withstand auto brake line pressures they should easily withstand 3000 Series Hydro pressures, and if one should fail, it would likely not be a big deal(compared to auto brake line failure)
I also don't use compression fittings on brake lines but I've seen it, a lot more than I'd like to. I was a technician at a Ford dealer for some time; some of the 'fixes' I've seen will make your hair stand up on end.

Anyways I got these apart today. They definitely need a lot of cleaning and some new o-rings. I need to degrease all of these parts and some of them need to soak in Evapo-Rust. I think I'm going to take all of the yellow pieces and have them bead blasted and powder coated. Yeah I'm gonna be that vain :ROFLMAO:

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As for hoses, I think I'm gonna do what Steve did for his bucket. The guy I bought the valves from has another one of these tractors and he'd probably sell me all 4 deck lift hoses cheap. The fittings on the front just look to be standard 1/4" NPT female fittings. Shouldn't be any problem to get those. I've got to get the quick connects nipples and all the dust caps.

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Discussion Starter #216
Also for reference the quick couplings are Parker SM series connectors and the part numbers are SM-251-4FP for the female and SM-252-4FP for the male.
 

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I also don't use compression fittings on brake lines but I've seen it, a lot more than I'd like to. I was a technician at a Ford dealer for some time; some of the 'fixes' I've seen will make your hair stand up on end.

Anyways I got these apart today. They definitely need a lot of cleaning and some new o-rings. I need to degrease all of these parts and some of them need to soak in Evapo-Rust. I think I'm going to take all of the yellow pieces and have them bead blasted and powder coated. Yeah I'm gonna be that vain :ROFLMAO:

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As for hoses, I think I'm gonna do what Steve did for his bucket. The guy I bought the valves from has another one of these tractors and he'd probably sell me all 4 deck lift hoses cheap. The fittings on the front just look to be standard 1/4" NPT female fittings. Shouldn't be any problem to get those. I've got to get the quick connects nipples and all the dust caps.

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You came out like a bandit on that stuff Joe. Imma throw out a couple things that crossed my mind. See if you can get a flare made on your steel lines then an adapter for 1/4" NPT. Then you can buy off the shelf hydraulic hoses for dirt cheap. I think my hoses from the QDs to cylinders were $12-$15 each.

Use deck lift ends but have them make short hoses with 1/4" NPT ends if all they have is the expensive 5800psi hose like I ended up with. Then once again use off the shelf 1/4npt ended hoses.

If you need QDs this is what I used. 4 sets for $40. 4 Sets of 1/4" NPT ISO 7241-B Quick Disconnect Hydraulic Couplings / Couplers 765552690269 | eBay
 

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You came out like a bandit on that stuff Joe. Imma throw out a couple things that crossed my mind. See if you can get a flare made on your steel lines then an adapter for 1/4" NPT. Then you can buy off the shelf hydraulic hoses for dirt cheap. I think my hoses from the QDs to cylinders were $12-$15 each.

Use deck lift ends but have them make short hoses with 1/4" NPT ends if all they have is the expensive 5800psi hose like I ended up with. Then once again use off the shelf 1/4npt ended hoses.

If you need QDs this is what I used. 4 sets for $40. 4 Sets of 1/4" NPT ISO 7241-B Quick Disconnect Hydraulic Couplings / Couplers 765552690269 | eBay
I think I just need the male ends since they where both missing. I'm hoping the female ends that I have don't leak.

Here you go, brand new, complete kit and only $700 shipped.


Of course it only includes the Power Angle components, you would still need the Aux Kit for up/down.
Holy crackpipe! :oops:
 

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Steve, did you attempt to buy hoses that would connect directly to the deck lift cylinder hoses? I have not examined the DLHs recently, but IIRC correctly they have a threaded end on the cylinder end and I would think it is likely that you could probably buy pre-made hoses with the correct ends, OR buy adapters that would connect the DLHs to a pre-made hoses, OR get hoses made up with ends that would work without you having to cut DLHs off of the barbed ends.
 
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