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From what I can tell that is standard for that vintage, and yes, the manual for the motor itself does show that a pipe can be attached for a remote air intake....
I have never owned one that had a hole in the side. My older kohlers had a hose that went from the cover to the shroud. Thats the first one I notice like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I have never owned one that had a hole in the side. My older kohlers had a hose that went from the cover to the shroud. Thats the first one I notice like that.
I tell you what, based on the all the grass and stuff that was lodged in the pre-cleaner, just a mesh screen over that hole would make a big difference.
 

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I have never owned one that had a hole in the side. My older kohlers had a hose that went from the cover to the shroud. Thats the first one I notice like that.
I've got a half dozen with the hole. They were originally setup nto use a heat riser tube. But after so many DOs failed to turn them back from winter to summer, they just left off the tube.
 

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lol it's been a hoot working on this tractor. The steering problem turned out to be one of the bolts holding the steering rack -it had loosened up and was shredded. Replaced the bolt (and de-gunked the rack) and the steering is nice and tight now. Changed the tranny oil yesterday and I have a hydro filter on order from Jack's. The clutches need some adjustment and I would like the gear shift to move a little more smoothly. I can shift into 4H now but it won't move going up an incline. The other gears are fine. (4H is just stupid-fast BTW, useless for anything except maybe outrunning other tractors).

Just about ready for some "after" pics and then I can turn my attention to this really worse-for-wear snowdozer that I picked up this past weekend.
4thH is too fast.:biglaugh: You ought to try it with 24X12-10 or 26X12-12 and the optional HS gearing. Good for heading in when raining or driving in intown traffic. Dad has been complaining about the 35-G running too fast in 1stL.:fing20:
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I've got a half dozen with the hole. They were originally setup nto use a heat riser tube. But after so many DOs failed to turn them back from winter to summer, they just left off the tube.
I'm thinking I could put a Ram-Air scoop on the hood and duct it back to the hole in the air cleaner. Then use 4H to get up to Ludicrous Speed.
 

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ARRHH CAPTAIN, MR. SCOTT HERE IN ENGINEERING. THAT HOLE IS FOR WHERE YOU PUT THE DI-LITHIUM CRYSTALS IF YOU WANT TO GET HER UP TO WARP FACTOR NINE!!! LMAO!!!:thThumbsU :thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Guys, how much pressure should be required on the fwd/rev pedal to get the tractor to go in reverse? It takes a little more effort than I would expect so I am assuming the reverse clutch needs some adjustment. The lining itself seems to have a lot of material left but I want to check the specs per the manual. Does anyone have a better write-up to check and adjust the clearance on the clutches? I'm guessing I need a feeler guage to do this?

Thanks in advance.

BTW I ordered a spray can from industrialtouchup.com to paint the snowdozer after I finish prepping and priming it. I'll post more pics after I make some progress.
 

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Guys, how much pressure should be required on the fwd/rev pedal to get the tractor to go in reverse? It takes a little more effort than I would expect so I am assuming the reverse clutch needs some adjustment. The lining itself seems to have a lot of material left but I want to check the specs per the manual. Does anyone have a better write-up to check and adjust the clearance on the clutches? I'm guessing I need a feeler guage to do this?

Thanks in advance.

BTW I ordered a spray can from industrialtouchup.com to paint the snowdozer after I finish prepping and priming it. I'll post more pics after I make some progress.
Proper way is set the axle bolts first, then the cross rod. Lossen the nuts on the cross rod so the springs are free. Adjust each side so the spring is straight up when pressure is on the clutch disc against the hub. Then adjust the cross rod nuts and bushings to get the correct gaps when in Neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
OK quick update. I ordered tire chains from vulcantire.com and they arrived really quickly - too bad they sent the wrong size :Disgus:

They responded quickly once I reported the problem, and I am supposed to have replacements on the way already. The chains I received were too small even to go on the front tires, LOL! Good quality chains, though.

I posted on another thread my plans for stripping and repainting the snowdozer blade that I picked up last week. I toyed with the idea of getting a cheap sandblaster but thanks to the advice of the guys on here I decided to strip the the small parts myself and send out the A-frame to a sandblasting shop.

Here is the "before"




I picked it up from the guy today and it looks great!





Here it is primed





Here is the pivot box stripped and primed. There was not a lot of pitting, even though this thing sat out in the rain for years.



I bought a single can of spray paint from industrialtouchup.com (one can mostly because I wanted to make sure I got the color right). I ordered #94914 Gravely red and it appears to be a match for both the dozer (the angle handle had a perfect patch of paint underneath the rubber handgrip) and the tractor. There is no way I will be able to paint the whole frame with one can, though, so I will have to order a couple more. Not the cheapest way to go but it is convenient.



It looks dark red in this light but it actually has a lot of orange to it.

I'm also glad that I was able to get the axle brackets from the seller; I see that a pair just sold on ebay for almost $70!

I've bought all new hardware for the snowdozer so I am looking forward to starting re-assembly. I haven't decided whether to get the blade itslef sandblasted this year or next. I already got a new decal from rggraphix.com so I guess I jumped the gun a little bit. I actually don't have a picture of the blade so I'll post that another time.

I finally found something "broken" on the tractor (actually the mower deck): the weldment for the guage wheel assembly. I talked to the sandblasting guy and I'll drop the part off with him to get this crack welded.

 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I bought a single can of spray paint from industrialtouchup.com (one can mostly because I wanted to make sure I got the color right). I ordered #94914 Gravely red and it appears to be a match for both the dozer (the angle handle had a perfect patch of paint underneath the rubber handgrip) and the tractor. There is no way I will be able to paint the whole frame with one can, though, so I will have to order a couple more. Not the cheapest way to go but it is convenient.



It looks dark red in this light but it actually has a lot of orange to it.
Update: In comparing this paint to the bit that was left on the snowdozer, it is orange-y and definitely a good match. Comparing it to the tractor itself, though, it does not quite match and needs less orange/more red. This makes some sense since the snowdozer is 70's vintage but the tractor is 90's. Good thing I ordered a single can, I just emptied it on the various bits for the plow. Unless someone else has a suggestion, I'm going to order 2 cans of the 94913 color, which is supposed to be a darker red. That should finish the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Thanks Bushbuck. At this point fixing up this snowdozer is more for aesthetics than anything else. The guy I bought it from would not budge on the price and I was disappointed to see how rusty it was in person, but since it was a convenient distance away I got it. It would still function exactly the same whether rusty or shiny, but I take care of my stuff and like it to look that way too. I probably could have paid for blower by the time all is said and done. The consolation I guess is putting another Gravely attachment to use rather than leaving it to rust away in somebody's backyard. Not as sexy as most of the rebuilds I read about on this site, lol.

When I first started looking for a Pro-G tractor about 3 years ago, I had every intention of dragging home the cheapest, non-running, left-out-to-rust sample I could find to make a restoration project out of. Obviously in the end I elected to spend more serious money on a well-cared for, well-running machine instead. So the stupid snowdozer refab lets me still have a "project" to do without taking countless hours away from my kids rebuilding a whole tractor.





(yeah... no boys....)
 

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I also prefer finding tractors in a good used condition. The older these tractors get the harder it is to find them that way.

The day that tractor was listed I would have bought it had it been closer. Believe me I was still tempted..But geez, 17 Hours each way..
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I also prefer finding tractors in a good used condition. The older these tractors get the harder it is to find them that way.

The day that tractor was listed I would have bought it had it been closer. Believe me I was still tempted..But geez, 17 Hours each way..
LOL I came REALLY close to buying a 20-G in Florida last year. It was used commercially, had 600 hours, and no engine. Just a big, gaping hole in the tranny. It was listed on EBay and got no bids. It was re-listed with a $650 buy-it-now (IIRC) and I went ahead and got a freight quote from the seller ($400 I think). I ended up being out-bid in the end. Weird.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
tire chains are in - the correct size this time (from vulcantire.com for those of you keeping track). I think they will work great. Plus, I figure that as soon as I put them on my tractor, it will guarantee that we get no snow whatsoever this season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Today I decided to investigate the grease fitting on the front axle pivot. It would not take any grease when I tried the last time. I read either on here or the Gravely club on Yahoo that someone had run into a situation where there was just nowhere for the grease to go behind that fitting. I pulled the axle off and the zerk was basically plugged with solidified grease that we had to force out with a wire. The pivot bushing itself was rusted in the axle weldment but we were able to press it out and clean it up.







(BTW from up close, the paint is NOT as clean as it looks in these photos)

I also found a loose tie rod bolt, so bad that the threads had stipped off. I replaced both bolts and that took all the rest of the play out of the steering. :fing32: Handles like new now!

As for cosmetics, regular Turtle Wax polishing compound did NOTHING to the very tough powder coat, so I picked up some of the "Heavy Duty" formula. It takes a LOT of elbow grease but about 10 minutes on an area seems to start to diminish the scuffs. I've only done one small section of the fender so far. This will take a LONG time. I am guessing that heavy duty polishing compound, then regular polishing compound, then buffing and waxing will get me as close new as I can with the original paint. At that point I will do some tests on the various scratches to see if the touch-up paint hides them or makes them stand out more.

Oh, I also replaced the pad on the directional pedal. Big deal, I know lol.

Finally checked the compression on the motor today and I have a hair under 100psi (warm). The service manual states that anything under 90 should be checked so even though I'm good for now I think in the Spring I'll pull the tops and do some preventative maintenance. The service manula recommends an overhaul at 500 hours anyway. The clock on this machine is at 636.

I am stripping the paint off the deflector chute on the mower - it was the only part on the deck with rust. I'd like to get that repainted and then work on some dents on the belt guards. The LH guard was dented from contacting the underside of the tractor. It appears to be due to the lift rod not being adjusted properly.

Next steps this week are adjusting the PTO and fwd/rev clutches. Oh, and I am praying that industrialtouchup.com can get the paint I ordered mixed and shipped. I would love to be able to get the snowdozer painted, let it cure over Thanksgiving, and start putting it back together on Friday.
 

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Looking good! It is nice to see you are proud of your new tractor and taking care of it..
I dont know if Richards still has it, but they used to sell gravely spray paint. Its actually really good for doing parts and touch-ups. Keep up the good work, and thanks for the pics..
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Looking good! It is nice to see you are proud of your new tractor and taking care of it..
I dont know if Richards still has it, but they used to sell gravely spray paint. Its actually really good for doing parts and touch-ups. Keep up the good work, and thanks for the pics..
I LOVE fixing stuff with new parts. Give me an old rusty mess and I will tear it apart and rebuild it with shiny new fasteners. Love it. Gee, sounds like my snowdozer....
 
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