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Very nice, thanks for sharing the details.

I am very interested in their Kohler kit, but too busy right now to make a move on one.

Sheldon
 

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Discussion Starter · #465 ·
She sounds great.
It’s amazing how much quieter it is than the Magnum. No wonder that Cub Cadet-style muffler is so popular. You can now clearly hear the gear noise in the transaxle over the sound of the motor.

I have some more pics to post later of the starter wiring and fitment of the seat pan over the air cleaner, but it’s all back together albeit with no choke cable and with throttle cable and wiring still not sorted out.

My 50” deck is still on my neighbor’s 16-G so it will be a while before I can try it out with a load.
 

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Yes, definitely quiet and smooth running.

I wonder if that engine would be an option for my Robin powered G. Subaru has pretty much stopped selling engines in the US.

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Discussion Starter · #467 · (Edited)
Yes, definitely quiet and smooth running.

I wonder if that engine would be an option for my Robin powered G. Subaru has pretty much stopped selling engines in the US.

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That was half-throttle. Idles at 1200RPM. Very deep exhaust burble at idle. Full throttle with no load is not much louder, I may point my sound level meter at it and take a reading.

It has a 2-barrel carb and a magneto for each cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #468 ·
OK so here's the scoop on the rest of the wiring.

I elected to change the tractor wiring to give the correct signal on the ignition circuit (switch in "start" and "run" position = +12V). To accomplish this I changed the under-dash relay wiring from this (regular Pro-G with Magnum / magneto ignition):



To this (24-G with Onan / coil ignition):



All this entails is taking the 5-pin Packard connector going to the relay, removing the ground terminal from the bottom ("30"), moving the center terminal to the bottom ("30"), and then adding a jumper from 86 to 87 (if you're paying close attention, the wiring looks a little different than the 24-G schematic but the result is electrically the same).

In real life, before:



After (sorry for the confusing picture, but that green ground wire in this pic was removed from 30 and left hanging):



The ignition wire coming from the tractor now provides the +12V that the motor relay is expecting when the switch is in the start and run positions.

The starter circuit wasn't functioning, though, despite the fact that the tractor (through its own start solenoid) is providing battery to the starter solenoid on the motor. The reason is that the start terminal on the starter solenoid is missing the +12V it needs when the starter circuit is engaged:



Adding a jumper from the battery terminal to the start terminal will make this work:



And that's the last step that got it starting and running. An obvious alternative to that short jumper would be to connect the battery cable directly to the starter (bypassing the starter solenoid on the motor altogether). Between the extra solenoid and the extra relay that are part of this kit, I've decided the final wiring config will be to remove them both, return the tractor relay wiring to stock, and run the extra wire for the fuel solenoid. That will be by far the cleanest solution.

After getting it running, it was time to put the seat pan back on and check the clearances. I started with this:



Since this tractor has a liftable hitch pivot weldment installed, it has the older, shorter seat pan weldments, and to compensate I have a pair of bumpers stacked together to get the seat pan height back to level. There were no clearance issues (though I did start by cutting the U-Bolt ends off the muffler clamp):



Here's the final result:













The motor is still too deep to move the hitch weldments to the "forward" position, so the engine guard will stay as-is.

Still to-do:
-Return the tractor wiring to stock, remove the motor relay and starter solenoid, add a wire for the fuel solenoid
-Wrap and permanently route the wiring harness, permanently route the starter-battery cable
-Determine a final routing for the throttle cable
-Find a suitable-length pull-choke cable and determine how to route it
-Change the oil after 5 hours, according to the service manual
 

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Interesting.

May want some adhesive heat shield for left underside of the pan.

Think you will go to narrower tires?

On my Robin, I just have a wire that runs to the starter from the input/unswitched side of the tractor's starter solenoid since my starter has its own. That might be an option. Just replaced the starter and was puzzled by this wiring configuration, as I'm accustomed to seeing starters connected on the output side. Sadly, I had a parasitic drain in my old starter and the battery would lose charge while not in use due to the continuous +12V feed regardless of ignition switch state. Took me a while to figure it out.

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Could probably just loosen and rotate that muffler clamp to pickup some additional clearance. Just noticed that engine appears to have an oil cooler. Very nice.

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What's the weight on that Vanguard?

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Discussion Starter · #473 · (Edited)
May want some adhesive heat shield for left underside of the pan.
I actually bought a roll of the stuff years ago, intended for the underside of the seat pan, right side above the Magnum muffler. So I have it if I need it.

Think you will go to narrower tires?
I really like the square profile of these big wide tires so I will keep the tires and see about relocating the muffler. Summit Racing carries Vibrant Performance exhaust parts, which according to Richard can be used to customize just about any exhaust work.

What's the weight on that Vanguard?
Shipping weight was 132lbs.

Also, with the muffler over on the left side of the motor, that opens up lots of space on the right side. Assuming I eventually put another Vanguard on my 816 project tractor, that may allow me to use the single-arm, 800-series-era liftable hitch weldment that I have, without modification. We'll see. Gotta get the M18 on that tractor first though, and get all the other issues sorted.
 

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That was half-throttle. Idles at 1200RPM. Very deep exhaust burble at idle. Full throttle with no load is not much louder, I may point my sound level meter at it and take a reading.



It has a 2-barrel carb and a magneto for each cylinder.


Man that engine is a beast. Any idea what the power curve is?


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Discussion Starter · #476 ·
OK other than sourcing a new choke cable, this is the last of it.

All this came off the motor



Returned the relay wiring to stock (removed the jumper, moved the terminal with the black wire back to the center, and reconnected the ground terminal at the bottom).



I ran a 16ga blue wire from the motor back to the dash. I used the original bullet connector from the kit by carefully prying the crimp apart and carefully re-crimping and soldering it. I also ran a 14ga black wire from the stop terminal on the motor into the Packard connector. The Packard connector now carries charging and ignition (grounding) circuit and the bullet connector carries the +12v for the fuel solenoid.



This is what the finished wiring at the motor looks like



Back under the dash, for the blue wire for the fuel solenoid I needed +12v with the ignition "on," so I tied it to the input of the light switch. All good, right? Nope, would not start. Turns out the ignition switch cuts power to the lights in the "start" position, so that was no good. On the relay under the dash, 86 is +12v in both "start" and "run," but the connector already has two wires crimped into it. So I ended up taking +12v by tapping the "B" terminal on the ignition switch. Not wanting to hack any wiring, I removed the terminal from the "B" position on the connector and added a short piece of the blue wire, a male connector on one end and a female Packard terminal on the other. I crimped the fuel solenoid wire and the tap into the Packard terminal, which went back into the connector for the ignition and I had my +12v. I don't have a picture as it's really tight in there.

But I do have a picture of all the boys together in the garage (16-G is my neighbor's that we got him last year).



I'm planning on calling Small Engine Warehouse to see if they have a selection of push-pull choke cables in the length that I need. I'll post the part number here if they have something.

Next step will be updating the wiring harness on the 816 project tractor and installing the M18. I'll post to that thread once I tear into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #478 · (Edited)
We had about 6" of snow last week and I plowed 4 driveways. After clearing mine I sucked it up and put the wheel weights and chains on (it was nice and slick under the snow and the Turf Chiefs have always been terrible in the snow).



Recall that the muffler clamp was really close to the tire; this became even more of an issue with the chains installed, so I swung the clamp 180* and now it juuuust makes it.



I plowed the other driveways after that and all is good. The Vanguard starts right up, though I do still have to choke it manually (will get the right cable at some point). I've run this machine very little since changing the motor, and the Vanguard does not like the ethanol (or moisture) in the gas from sitting most of the year. It's not as smooth as when the gas was fresh, despite my using Seafoam as a stabilizer.
 

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Yes, the factory Turf Chief tires are no good in the snow without the chains.

What brand and grade of fuel do you usually buy? I have found that brand does make a difference, the additives are not all the same.

Since new in 1996, my tractor has always been run on SUNOCO mid premium or BP Premium, and has often sat for long periods with no problems.

In all these years I have only had one fuel quality, ethanol?, related problem. I have had a small issue with popping/roughness at part throttle in the last few years. I cleaned the carbon from the cylinder heads and have been adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel. This improved this problem by about 90%.

Sheldon
 

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By me in MN i have always run premium in mine because here i can only get premium ethenol free. Havent had issues but mine does summer and winter dutys so it never sits more then a month or so. I have the same kit in mine so I also have the tight tire clearance Ive never had an issue but I don't like how close it is.

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