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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well on the advice of a freind I pulled the valve covers to see if they were getting oil. This is what I found. Water contamination. -_-. Any suggestions on what to do?









other push rod





Other Side:





Thanks in advance
 

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That looks way better than the Briggs I saved that had water in it. I changed the oil, then ran for 2-5 minuets, then changed the oil again, and ran for 5-10 minuets, then changed the oil again and ran for a 1/2 hour or so and changed the oil again. Yes 3 oil changes to finally get it to where it wasn't blowing the milkey stuff out the breather.

I did finally tear it down and had it bored, and replaced ther pistons and what not. The cam and crank had a lot of surface rust, but cleaned up nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Whats your suggestion on what I should do? Theres rust on the push rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
and the oil on the dipstick doesnt seem contaminated
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To top things off, now it won't crank. All it does is "clickclickclick" really fast when turning the key to start. even when boosting the battery.
 

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the fast clicking means low power to the starter, check your connections at the battery and starter.

The water contamination, simple fix, its really no big deal. wipe the push rods off, blow through them as well. clean what you can with carb cleaner and a rag, drain all the oil out of the engine, put on a new oil filter, add 2qts of 10W30, run it full throttle for 20-30 minutes...the heat should boil/steam off any remaining moisture in the system. This is common on commands that are started often, but not run more than 1-4 minutes, as the engine gets warm, but the oil stays cool, condensation forms in the engine, and it runs down into the oil. On our floor model tractors with Kohlers...we would crank them 2 times a day, once to move them out, once to move them in, running about a minute each time. We would gain about 1/4" on the dipstick in moisture a year, and would drain out thick chocolate milk when we had to finally change the oil due to smoking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just bent a push rod,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Both are metal as both stick to a magnet
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, What should I do? I know push rods do not just bend "just Cause" so. To pull the head I gotta take the engine out of the tractor due to the frame blocking the shroud screws.
 

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carefully straighten the pushrod, put it back on, pull the plugs out and spin the motor slowly by hand....If one of the push rods was not seated in the cup on the lifter when it was put back in, that will bend one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I thought after they bend they could not be used again? Anything I should be looking for when spinning by hand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok Red, Did what you said, As i was turning it over by hand it makes a gurgling sound. got a video of it for reference, will post soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here is a pic of the bent pushrod.

 

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The gurgling sounds like normal sounds with the valve cover off.

I dont see any binding, try and crank if over with the key...if it all seems good, put the plugs back in and see if it will fire off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Red, i did, And it seems to run somewhat fine, it hunts at WOT though. I got new plugs,etc for a tune up, Should I go ahead? 5W-30 oil as well
 

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Kohler recommends that after the pushrods are installed, you let the engine sit for an hour to allow the lifters to return to their proper height. When you remove a pushrod, the lifters expand, and it can take a while for the oil to bleed out of them. It's possible the bent pushrod occurred when either a valve hit the piston, or the rocker arm was pushed too far and bound up against its stanchion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, Even after the tune-up, Still not right, its dieseling after i go from WOT to idle and it surges before it kills its self. Also won't start without the choke after running enough to warm it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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