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That is me this morning. Had to go out anyway. Had a tree branch hanging up hogh on a maple next to the house that broke from that last major storm we had. Late last night we were laying in bed and heard a loud thud. Turned the TV down to listen and no more noise. About a half hour later got up to let the dog out one last time and when i turned on the outside light there was the branch laying next to the house. It damaged the gutter on the way down. Got out this morning and cut it up and cleaned up the mess. Haven't tackled the gutter yet.
 

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I'm still trying to figure out the best way to post pictures. For me, at least, the ones in your post are just thumbnails, I can't click on them for larger versions.

I usually click "Insert image", then delete the full-size version that it inserts, and do Insert Thumbnail, which gives a small version that you can click on to enlarge.
The easiest way if you're working from a PC is just to drag and drop the image you want to post into the 'reply' box. You'll see an option at the bottom of the newly inserted image to post as a thumbnail or full-size.

Like zo:

backyard1.jpg
 

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the California fires are all over our screens, even way over here.
Are things ok there Don?
How about our other west coast friends?

It's dry as a bone here but so far there have been no fires near us this year.
It's supposed to rain an inch on Thursday; we'll celebrate if it really happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #6,888
I have been lucky as far as the wild fire's go. None near me, closest one would be the "camp" fire near Fresno and that is 154 miles north.

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We have had some grass fires over the last couple of weeks , that's about it.
Fortunately.
We have a US Forestry station about 7-8 miles away complete with water dropping helicopter & pump trucks.
They take good care of us.
Oregon and Washington are in real bad shape. Their forests are twice what ours are. The only thing that's going to get them out of the situation will be a good rain. Hopefully that will be happening soon.
The president will be here in California tomorrow, maybe gloomy weather will follow, you know like the gloom news. Kidding, just kidding . . . .
😝

Don

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Now now now Don, let's not get into any forbidden subjects here on Mytractorforum...
Here's what I've been working on [among other things]; new front braces for my FEL.
The old simple diagonal interfered with the steering if on uneven ground, like when digging with the bucket.

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The new ones a a bit heavy, 95 lbs each. With my back, better to lift them into place with tackle.
It's 30x30 solid rod + 200 x 15mm plate, and a few welding rods.

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The lower horizontal is welded to the old brace mount plates, the upper horizontal fits on new pivot pins I made. 30mm, the brace fits tightly on the 25mm stepped bit, and it's threaded 22mm, then hardened + tempered. There was some surface damage due to oxidization in the oven.
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The smaller pins are for the new quick link balls for FEL bucket.

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Square plate with accurate bore hole is welded to the new side brace.

There are lots of 14mm bolts up front...
Now I can make the front protection grill, fit the lights again, and get the engine cover fixed + painted.
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Tire clears on full lock + tilt now.
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Good job!!!
A lot of heavy duty parts involved.
Time consuming but well worth the efforts as you can go full tilt.

Don

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That is what you call a tight fitting chassis, that should keep you loading at all angles!
 

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Thanks guys;
Of course in reality the job makes no sense at all.
In 10 years of tractor abuse, I've had the interference problem 10 or 20 times. each event cost between an extra minute to 5 minutes, basically having to keep the steering angle small if the tilt was high.
So spending $150 on material and several days to solve the problem is ridiculous!

But I feel better about my tractor now, and that's what matters, right?
 

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But I feel better about my tractor now, and that's what matters, right?
I have to be happy with my equipment doing the work I need it to do. I like that you deal with issues that are work related. I sometimes do projects that are aesthetics but not too often, and they normally start out as fixing a problem...then I get carried away! :)
 

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Precisely! Well, that and solving a problem, and improving the machine, which is always nice.
I sometimes do projects that are aesthetics but not too often, and they normally start out as fixing a problem...then I get carried away!
Ditto all that.
Might add Who Me!!!???
to that as well.

My latest being replacing the water pump, again after replacing it just a couple of years ago. Couldn't stand the thought of coolant going thru that rusty and some corrosion & build up circulating thru the clean engine, after all we do not want to clog the passages in the new head gaskets. along with that, I never liked the replacement radiator with the plastic tanks. It had small leaks from day one.
On the way is the replacement all aluminum 2mm thick tanks.

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Made locally in Southern California and has a lifetime warranty for not much more than the standard replacement. I think the peace of mind is worth the cost.
Hmmmm, I guess the heater core . . . . .

Don

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Other parts I am waiting on include
Push rods that are a little shorter due to the valve train geometry changing.
Here is what the test looked like.

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Notice the vertical line on the valve stem is not centered, the roller would tend to roll off the edge. Shorter push rods will bring that back to the center of the valve. This in part/mostly due to the new rocker arms with a higher ratio, 1:6 vs 1:5 stock - non roller rockers. By the way full roller rockers reduce drag /heat which makes a little more power but reduces oil temperature which are all good.
My custom fabbed test springs when "claying" the valves. A piece of modling clay on top of the piston to measure valve opening, making sure the new setup with a higher lift cam and rockers will not hit the piston. Passed wit plenty of room.

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One more thing, Clean the parts prevents all of this dirt going into the clean engine.
The left shows what came off of the new lifters and the right came off of the new pistons.

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Saved the engine being filled with unnecessary crud is also a good thing.

Don

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Nice looking stuff, Don; I've been away from that sort of thing for a long time, I've never seen those roller rockers before.
The radiator is a work of art, amazing they can produce and sell it for such a competitive price.
Gives me hope for American manufacturing.

I should be strimming.
I hate strimming!!
I want to do nice shiny work, like Don.
 

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Other parts I am waiting on include
Push rods that are a little shorter due to the valve train geometry changing.
Here is what the test looked like.

View attachment 2473469
Notice the vertical line on the valve stem is not centered, the roller would tend to roll off the edge. Shorter push rods will bring that back to the center of the valve. This in part/mostly due to the new rocker arms with a higher ratio, 1:6 vs 1:5 stock - non roller rockers. By the way full roller rockers reduce drag /heat which makes a little more power but reduces oil temperature which are all good.
My custom fabbed test springs when "claying" the valves. A piece of modling clay on top of the piston to measure valve opening, making sure the new setup with a higher lift cam and rockers will not hit the piston. Passed wit plenty of room.

View attachment 2473470

One more thing, Clean the parts prevents all of this dirt going into the clean engine.
The left shows what came off of the new lifters and the right came off of the new pistons.

View attachment 2473471

Saved the engine being filled with unnecessary crud is also a good thing.

Don

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Most of us used to also run guide plates. Stock or hot cam will work fine with the stock length push rods 99% of the time. Hardened pushrods are highly recommended. Most of us that used either the GM Hot cam or a mild aftermarket cam generally ran the Crane LT4 rockers because they hold their adjustment better. If running the special "crane cam" that crane made especially for GM with the additional lift definitely check valve clearance. The "special Crane Cam'' had a lot more lift and duration than the much used "Hot Cam" that a lot of people use in their Lt1's and LS'1's. The special cam as I found out was way to radicle to get a tune when running a lot of boost.
 

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I should be strimming.
I hate strimming!!
I want to do nice shiny work, like Don.
LOL!!!
Your work always shines, Mark.

The cam I went with is one of Comp Cam's new profiles. It's pretty mild, not a lot of overlap a little more duration and lift isn't much over stock. Made for low end opposed to high pm range. It's probably in the range of an RV cam which is more useful for me since I'm not going to be in 5-6 thousand rpm range but it should leave the stop lights better.
I can take on the soccer moms in their SUV's.

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I was borderline as far as needing push rods but they didn't dent the wallet and it will be better off.

A better close up.

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Don

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So, while waiting on parts I was some how talked into replacing a radiator in a friends truck. I ordered his radiator along with mine.
This beauty is going in a Tacoma.

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I thought this was going to be easy, pull the old and drop in the new . . . . .
WRONG!

Water pump came with the timing kit so for $50 bucks what a bargain, new belts included for that price.

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I have to say the pump is a solid chunk of aluminum, not a thin casting. The good news is my oil pan gasket finally showed up at the same time, not that I'll get to that in a timely manor.
I thought this would be a piece of cake, it would have gone well had it not been for the skid plate under the engine that does not want to come off. It needed to to be able to access the bolt on the tensioner. After an hour, I gave up on it and went to plan "B". Rather than removing the tensioner and compressing it in a vice, I will just have to do the compressing while it is still in place. A two foot pry bar and a C-clamp worked for that. Now on to mounting the radiator, that's going to involve drilling the frame for a few bolts and re-mounting the supports so the radiator's channel will fit around them.

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What could possibly go wrong, piece of cake.

Don

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