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Discussion Starter #5,481
Thanks, Mikey.
Good to hear from you, your probably all tied up with work and . . . . life and stuff.
Nice of you to drop by.


They say you need to have less pressure for the thumb than the bucket so the bucket can over power it to prevent damage.
So it would only add additional weight and it won't be anywhere close to it's limit as it is.


If it gets bent, I'll have to up size hopefully the design will prevent that from happening.


Donewrken

:fing32:

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The valve block on the excavator comes with individual relief valves on the work ports to prevent things like that.

Once saw a guy with a JCB 1CX backhoe, he forgot to swing the arm to transport mode and just smack the arm into a wall. Fortunately the machine had these relief valves on the work ports and nothing major happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #5,483
Once saw a guy with a JCB 1CX backhoe, he forgot to swing the arm to transport mode and just smack the arm into a wall.
Oh, don't ya hate when that happens!!!
:tango_face_surprise
Mine has a good program for setting up the second and third aux hydraulic systems.




It's as easy as that. :confused:


:fing02:


:ROF




Donewrken

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Discussion Starter #5,486
I haven't see a lot of directions for cross tubes, have you?





I was hoping to hear about someones creative way of being able to use them where you normally would need a removable pin but instead have a fixed bar.
Something along these lines.





Or I could just permanently attach the thumb side and pin the other.
If it needed to be removed I could use a wiz wheel.


. . . because, it was inexpensive and not offered with other ends.








Donewrken

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Mmm, what exactly is the problem, Don? Is it the cross tube welded to the end of the rod, or the plug screwed into the cylinder's port?

The images are of various clamps for pipe, tubing, and a couple could probably be used to shorten a cylinder's stroke, but none will put up with the forces at the business end of a cylinder rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #5,488
Mmm, what exactly is the problem, Don? Is it the cross tube welded to the end of the rod, or the plug screwed into the cylinder's port?

Nothing wrong with any of it.
It's simply a cross tube design and I will have to attach the rod end permanently to the thumb with the rod welded in place. The rod is a main structural component that has to be welded, not threaded.

So that's why I asked if anyone had any suggestions how to make a "removable cross tube"


It's not even an issue just a design consideration.
The price on the cylinder made for no choice on ends.
I doubt it would ever need to be removed for any reason other than to make storage a little easier. Also lighter on the installation.


For the price I can live with the inconvenience.
The rod could also be cut off , leaving an inch or more and then a sleeve fitted and pinned in place but that's not the best way to do anything.


Donewrken

:fing32:

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I will have to attach the rod end permanently to the thumb with the rod welded in place. The rod is a main structural component that has to be welded, not threaded.
Okay-y-y. Now I'm feeling really dense. You want to weld the rod to a lever that swings through about a 135° arc. Is that correct?

Can you post a diagram to show what you plan?
 

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Okay. I see that the problem is clearance for the cylinder due to the length of rod extending from the cylinder when fully retracted.

Shorten the cylinder stroke or install a new and longer rod.

To shorten the stroke, cut 2 pieces of 2x2x3/16 angle to the length needed for clearance, set them around the rod to form a hollow square and weld them together. Then weld the square tube formed to the cross tube. Easy peasy!

Extending the existing rod can also be done, but it involves cross-drilling the cross tube in line with the rod to create a socket for the rod extension.

The alternative is to manufacture the thumb to accommodate the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #5,495
Hey Don. Just wanted to make sure you have the right equipment to weld the thumb:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j61ezBX-EyA

:D



:tango_face_surprise

Ditto :tango_face_surprise


I wanted to see how badly it warped. :laugh:


What 120 pounds of 1/2"x 8"x 36"steel looks like after the plasma cutter has it's way.









The top piece is for the middle finger.
:hide:


It didn't sound so nasty until I saw it in writing.


Building the thumb to the cylinder size and the mounting location already in place on the dipper.







Donewrken

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Discussion Starter #5,497
Wow Don. We are here to help, why are you showing us the middle finger? :D

Looking good!



because.


:laugh:




I bent some 1/2" AR400 today and it was the easiest 1/2" plate I have ever bent.
I did heat it briefly with the handy weed torch on both sides to stress relieve it.
Then over to the excavator and slid it through the bucket mounts and did a little curl.

Now to give it a little back bend to fit between the teeth.


It looks like this for now.






Straightened up some, with the middle.




The middle will get false nails.


:biglaugh:




Cylinder will be here on Monday. So much for two day shipping.

I'm looking for 15" of 45mm 4130 rod for the pin.
One online metal supply offered it for $38 bucks plus shipping but I'll check my local guy first.

I'll just pickup a pair of bushings on the bay, they run about $18 each delivered.


Cost will round off at $280.00 for everything but the couplers and hoses.




Donewrken

:fing32:

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