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Your metal prices beat my 95 per pound for new.
Donewrken
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This I just don't understand; we pay 23% tax!!!
Steel is a competitively produced commodity; even with tariffs [I don't know if that story is still ongoing], there's no way you should be paying double what I pay.

We had a few days of rain [Yay!]
So I asked the fire department if I can burn my wood pile tomorrow; they said I can.
It's got a couple of tons of pine logs in there. It will be a biggy.

The Mercedes has a leak at the top of the fuel tank, so I have the rear up and stands. It seems I have to take the rear end out, as well as the drive shaft + exhaust system.
If I'm going that far, I figure I should do the clutch too [it slips just a tiny bit when hot].
But for that I need another pair of jackstands; being a cheapo SOB, I didn't want to pay 60 Euros.
They're not getting 60 Euros out of me!
So I made them yesterday. Only 20 Euros worth of material and 4 hours work.
And they aren't painted yet.
 

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Yeah, the tariff thing is still ongoing. And it also depends on the business environment as well, such as local regulations & taxes, wages, land costs. Lots of reasons why there can be significant price differences across the USA, let alone between different countries...
 

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All those things could add up to 10%, maybe 20%.
I think the main difference is that I'm buying from a steel yard; they sell tons and tons every day.
They will only sell whole lengths [6 meters, 20'].
Most of their weight is rebar.
I used to buy a couple of tons at a time when I was working [biggest score was 8 tons]. Then I'd shop around for the best price each time.
FOr the 8 ton purchase, I specified a delivery vehicle with a crane; they sent t without one.
"Crane truck is broken" the guy said.
I told him to come back when it was fixed. The bigger plates weighed 1000 lbs each. The small ones 450.
No, you will not dump my cold rolled ship plates onto the ground!
That was maybe 1999 or 1998. I paid a Dutch guilder a kilo, around 20 US cents a pound.
Ah, those were the days.
Chinese and Russian steel dumping made money for me.
 

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Nice hoist Mark.




So ironic, losing my job cause they are not making money, we have so many orders right now, we won't be able to fulfill them all when we officially shut the doors in June.





I maybe going against my best judgement since i do not like green and yellow,.....I was given a JD L110 hydro, going to use it to mow my lawn. We will see how long the Tuff Torq K40 tranny lasts on my steep hills :tango_face_devil:
 

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Not really, it's pretty common for a small business that is successful at one size, then expands and goes bust, not because it is no longer successful, but because of cash flow problems, or even management problems.

For example, say you expand into say, Walmart. You suddenly have to produce a whole lot more units to go on their shelves across the country (or worldwide), but you don't get paid for any product for months, and (this also makes getting loans more difficult) you have to take back any product they don't sell or is returned(including anything Walmart themselves damage).
 

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Many orders but not making profit?
Something's gone wrong there.

Anyway, such things are beyond our control; whatever you decide to do next, I hope it works out for you.

I think it's more the fact our customers do not have backup pigments they can use in their ink formulas, they depended on us as their only supplier. Everyone is scrambling to build as much inventory as they can until they can search for other manufacturers, they are giving themselves a buffer.



We were told that our company has always been an "ink company", not a pigment company and also from my position I am in, I can see they are going to be buying their pigments from India or China, probably cheaper than we can make in the US. These new tariffs are killing us on our the foreign raw materials we use to make our products. It's cheaper to bring it a usable finished good than the combined tariffs on all the raws.
 

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Hey guys, how is everyone doing?

So, here is my new project. An homemade indexing head to use with the milling machine.

I've had this worm drive box hanging around from an old big milling machine that was used to move the quill up and down, by either a hand or by a crank handle for fine feed.

All I needed to do to it was adding bearings on top and bottom of the worm wheel shaft. So here are some of the parts I've made, minus the worm drive.

I machined the top and bottom of the box so I can have reference surfaces to align everything. I also need to machine one of the sides as I plan to use this indexing head in either vertical or horizontal position.

IMG_20190410_183944.jpg IMG_20190410_184026.jpg

Here is the chuck and chuck backplate. Both saved from the older lathe I used to have. This 8" chuck is massive for this project but we will see how it goes. Maybe I can get a cheap 5" one or something later on. I machined the threads on the backplate to match the ones I did on the indexer spindle.

IMG_20190410_184123.jpg IMG_20190410_184035.jpg

Halfway mocked up for the pictures:

IMG_20190410_184429.jpg IMG_20190410_184440.jpg

And how it might look in the end:

IMG_20190410_184634.jpg IMG_20190410_184639.jpg

So the plan with this, is using a stepper motor along with it's driver and a Arduino with the LCD 1602 Keypad Shield and a program to run this thing. This should allow me to get very accurate divisions. Therefore allowing me to make accurate gears and bolt hole patterns.

Here is a video showing what I'm trying to explain:

 

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Awesome hoist Mark! Maybe a sliding counterweight would help with rolling the trolley.

Mikey, good for you. You'll find the right employer with the right offer. I agree with Mark and Don. If they are rude now, imagine how they will be when you are their employee. Run, don't walk!

Pedro, that indexer is great! I was never good enough to cut gears, but we had guys that were good enough. I loved to watch them set up, when I could. They only had a manual indexer to use. I should make a video to show you how I was taught to tin wires by a lady that used to make cable harnesses for Sikorsky helicopters. You hold the wire between the middle finger and ring finger and hold the solder between the thumb and index finger. The soldering iron is in the other hand. You bring the iron to the wire and advance the solder. Done right, you could push up to an inch of solder. The wires you were tinning wouldn't need even an eighth of an inch of solder.
 

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Pedro, cool project!!!
and nice looking parts so far.
I on the other hand saw my drill press today . . . . .
and thought how nice it would have been to be able to get to it for a few holes I needed to drill.
Break out the big 1/2" drill!! Got er done!


Speaking of gears, did you see this one, this guy made it look so simple.






Oh, and speaking of gears, my tranny is well and the new torque converter arrived, I'll be playing wrestling match soon if the weather cooperates a little.
Can't believe how much that thing weighs, gota be around 60-70lbs. empty
even the UPS guy warned me about it being heavy. I wish I could have seen him coming down the driveway with it on his hand truck.

I'm adding a large cooler in addition to the one in the radiator,
like this bad boy






Also a couple of cans of flush for the radiator and lines.


Mark, here is how the metal market looks here.





They are predicting a steel glut, but not until 2022.


Joe, I bet that lady knew her stuff and made it look easy, it's not!!! LOL!!






Donewrken

:fing32:

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Pedro, that's really awesome. I wish I could do something like that.

When I was hunting a missing change gear for my lathe, I found a company in Holland that stocks a big selection of gears at quite reasonable prices. I'll hunt up the website if you want.

I'm trying to get the tank out of the Mercedes; big PITA. The whole rear end has to come out first.
The clutch slips a little when it's hot, so I'm going to get in there too; I'm with Don. Transmission mission, gearbox on the chest.

I made a couple of jackstands. They're are 65cm max height tractor strength.

home made jack stands.jpg
full hoist.jpg
rear end removal 2.jpg

And it needs ball joint boots and right side A frame bushings.
 

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Boy, that looks like fun!!
I like how high the car is sitting.
Wish my jacks would reach that high to put the tranny back in.





Nice Mark made stands!!




Donewrken

:fing32:

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The easy way to paint; photoshop!
I painted a ship that way, saved a pile of money.

I got my tranny out today; pretty light weight compared to yours, Don.
But as I was struggling with the upper bell housing bolts [an ever popular pastime] I was wondering how yours went.

The clutch plate is only a little bad, and expensive. for a little more expensive, I get the pressure plate and throwout bearing.
Sigh...

On the positive side, my fuel tank is fine and taking it out was a total waste of a day, and it will take another day to put it back. It was just cracked hoses it seems. Weird.

How do you get your heavy tranny out and in? Do you have any clever lifting thingy? rolling floor jack?
Lifting the car so high makes most things easier, but it's now too high to use a rolling jack for that. Not that I have one.
 

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I've found using a long extension, and using a "wobble" from an impact socket set works pretty good. The wobble doesn't have as large a range of motion as non-impact versions do, and tend to be stiffer as well, so it doesn't flop out of position.
 

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yes, flopping; it takes patience to get one of those flopper type flex joints onto the bolt while squinting and holding a flashlight through the gap.
It would be easier if I had a long extension instead of 4 short ones plugged together.
But the real fun will be getting it put back.
 

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Thanks guys! :fing32:

Those are some good looking jackstands Mark. The height is really nice to move freely under the car.

That car will be good as new in the end.

I've also been doing some labeling as part as the never ending shop reorganization.

This is my hardware cabinet. I didn't show the first drawer but is full of plastic wall plugs (I think it's the right name) in various sizes, hoses clamps and wall pipe clamps.

By the way, I'm not responsible for any twisted tongues while trying to read some Portuguese technical terms :D

IMG_20190410_185856.jpg IMG_20190410_185911.jpg IMG_20190410_185930.jpg IMG_20190410_185945.jpg IMG_20190410_185955.jpg
 

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the Mercedes definitely has had some mission creep...
I did that sort of thing with my bolts and screws a few years ago; it takes some hours, but totally worth it.
I'm the captain of chaos, so it doesn't come natural.
I just scrawled on boxes with a black marker though.

I gather you share the workshop with your family; they'll all appreciate that work.
I had to look up 'Ranhuadas'
 

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How do you get your heavy tranny out and in? Do you have any clever lifting thingy? rolling floor jack?
Lifting the car so high makes most things easier, but it's now too high to use a rolling jack for that. Not that I have one.

I'm still gearing up for the wrestling match, I'm getting it closer to my weight class. Mostly by waiting to mount the torque converter until the tranny is on the jack and not putting the tail piece/transfer case adapter on either. Both of those will make for more of a fair fight.


I have a piece of plywood with a bolt in the center with a wooden movers dolly (carpeted so some traction added) that sits on top, then it's a balancing act with the tranny on one jack and another roller/floor jack under the engine to adjust the angle.
The one under the engine is a rapid pump that's aluminum which makes moving it around a bit easier. I'll probably put a 4x12 under it this time so I won't have to also balance a couple of pieces of 2x6 between the engine and the jack like I did when dropping it out. Since I know where it will be now a block under it would probably make more sense out of it.


Not that I have one, LOL!!



yes, flopping; it takes patience to get one of those flopper type flex joints onto the bolt while squinting and holding a flashlight through the gap.
It would be easier if I had a long extension instead of 4 short ones plugged together.



I needed about three feet of extensions taking it out, good thing I had a bunch of 1/2 inch extensions for breaking them loose. The 3/8 inch have too much flex. Not a fan of flopping universals either and agree about the impact wobbly sockets not flexing as much but before I had them I would wrap the universal joint with tape to cut down on the floppiness. Tape is a good thing to have some close by in case you need some to help hold a bolt in a socket to get it started. I have a couple of wraps on most of my extensions to keep it handy.
You don't need to wrap the bolt and socket with the tape, I just tear a piece off and place it inside the socket then push the bolt in the socket.
As far as tips go, it's one of those things you think you can do without but if possible a couple of studs or long bolts that you cut the heads of of one on each side of the engine will make aiming the tranny a little easier. Plus then you can take a break for a bit while you catch your breath.
No floor jack!!! OK, I can understand that, I still have the little one I bought back in high school. I acquired one big cast iron one at an auction for cheap, (only three wheels are on the ground at one time) and for the shipping, I included it with one large freight delivery so I can't complain about it.


If I needed a roller I would find some casters and make a wooden box to the height needed to compensate for the high really cool jack stands. Then I'd have some 2x4's and one by's handy to shim it up. I wouldn't even consider trying to mount a jack to "hold" the tranny on top of that though, just wood for shimming.


I think I'll drag a couple of work lights under with me rather than a flashlight this time, it's hard enough working on your back let alone in the dark.
The worst part was having hand tools working their way under me and not being able to find them without crawling out from under the truck I had a great idea and put them all in a box, then I still couldn't find them because the box was too tall and it was dark under there. LOL!!
I found a good use for the running boards, I just spread the ones that I think I might need out on top of one so their within reach. Course, if they weren't there it wouldn't be so hard to get under the truck in the first place.


Pedro what ever it is that you have sorted inside those will be easy to find, what ever they are!!
I'm with Mark, I've got a bunch of plastic boxes that I sort them into and a sharpie to scribble the sizes but they don't stay sorted for too long.
Wait until I get my new shop built, then I will have some room to finally get some semblance of organized!!


Donewrken

:fing32:

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I'm trying to get the tank out of the Mercedes; big PITA. The whole rear end has to come out first.


.

My Firebird is like that, exhaust and parts of rear suspension have to be removed to get tank out. I had to replace fuel pump last summer, pulled carpet back and cut a hole in the floor.



I had mine sitting pretty high once, much easier to remove lower suspension with motor attached out the bottom.
 

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