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Discussion Starter #1
I finally found a 140 here in Utah! It is a 1973 140 H3. I picked it up in running condition (I drove it on and off the trailer), it came with the big tri rib tires on the front that Miller sells and some older Goodyear ags on the back. It also came with a 33 tiller, the lift arm, PTO, and some miscellaneous parts like a new steering column, headlight, tail light, and a bunch of other goodies.

First, the good: It runs and drives, tires all hold air, tiller turns over by hand (no belts to use it with the tractor).

The bad: I immediately found the reason for the extra steering gear, the original had one of the holes for the mounting bolts broken off and the other two holes were all ovalled out. It has a couple slight leaks from the hydrostat (the PO gave me a new in the package input seal for one leak), the other I believe is just from the dipstick tube being loose. It has the wrong grille (no biggie), I noticed that it rolls quite easily when shut off just sitting there. I dont know if this is bad, however, my 300 doesnt budge. Maybe someone can enlighten me there? And the terrifying part. lol. When I test drove it it was totally fine. No smoke, no noises etc. It just ran like a top. Loaded it on the trailer, drove home, unloaded it and drove around the yard, hooked up my integral hitch and cultivator, went out to the garden and cultivated. Then the bad part, after I pulled it back around back for the night, I turned the key to off and as the engine slowed to a stop it puffed blueish smoke the whole time. Remind you I checdked for this, it did NOT do this before. The PO is a friend of my friend, TRACTORMANDAN, so I would like to believe him when he said in the 10 years he has owned it it never smoked at all. Now everytime I start it and shut it down it smokes blue like crazy. At least it looks blue. Now, since this happened, it also wont start on its own I have had to give it a hot of carb cleaner then it roars to life, but otherwise cranks and cranks and cranks. I am guessing the carb sucked some crap or something as it likes to run with the choke half way on. Could this be causing the smoke? It didnt need the choke on when I test drove it or when I cultivated, only since I noticed the smoke has it needed it.


Anyway, other than the usual cosmetic and some bent shields on the tiller, it overall isnt bad. I think I did pretty good for $850, what do you guys think?

Oh and the oil levels are all okay.
 

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Always Learning
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I just got one too, but mine smokes when throttling up. Mine rolls with some good resistance. Whats your SN#?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
SN 051697M

Yeah I can handle a little smoke, it is 40 years old. My 110 smokes too, but i have had the head off and it is still stamped with the letters "std" so I know its never been tampered with. So after 40 years, it only smoke a little, I can handle it. It has been taken care of to last this long. But it burns a fair amount of oil, and it doesnt smoke at all compared to this 140, so I am hoping its not oil but rather a fuel issue. I would post pics but I already have it apart and scattered lol.
 

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Start out with a good carb cleaning and carb kit,points and condensor and give the gas tank a good cleaning. Probably wouldnt hurt to pick up a head gasket clean the carbon off the head and the piston and check the head for flat surface.It will most likely wake up. Good luck BILL
 

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nick4030 for some reason I cant view the pics, maybe you can repost them???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nick4030 for some reason I cant view the pics, maybe you can repost them???
Lol, ill post some once its back together again.

Ok, ill start with all of that. I already checked valves which were on. I was looking for a plugged breather, but its fine. I actually have a head gasket so maybe ill do that. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I pulled the head and much to my surprise, blown head gasket!









It is hard to see it in the pictures but im confident that its blown. I could see oil on the fins of the engine and both sides of the head gasket were covered in oil. the gasket also lifted right off, I didnt have to scrape it at all. Just fell off. Now I need to figure out why. The bolts didnt seem horribly tight, nor did they seem extremely loose. What is a good way to check the deck surface for flatness? I know I can put the head on a flat surface and try to stick a .003" feeler gauge under it, but how do I check the block?
 

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after you have cleaned the head good--a good metal flat edge with a light behind it as you bend down and get a close angle view...
 

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The owners manual
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I don't think you need to worry about the deck not being true. To much metal in the block to warp.

Dick
 

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Well sounds like you've found the culprit on the blue smoke! Doesn't sound in bad shape for a 40 year old tractor though!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I got it back together, still smokes like crazy. It's time for a rebuild that I don't want to do yet. Lol. What is your opinion on just a simple ring job or a complete rebuild. It's going to be my trailer queen at some point but I would like to use it for a couple years first. Then do a complete restoration. So I was thinking maybe a simple set of rings now then rebuild during restoration?
 

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Check your oil level, too much oil will make them do that too! Do a compression test before you do a ring job (leak down test if possible).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well the oil is right on the full mark. I don't have the equipment to do a leak down test, but I'd like to know what all it requires
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I pulled the engine apart, and found the culprit. The exhaust valve is VERY loose in the guide. I dry honed the cylinder and plan to lap the valves, but I need some information on valve guides. I have never had any experience with them. Are they something a machine shop must do?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well after 2.5 months at the machine shop..... lol. It now has both new valve guides, reamed with new valves. It was bored .010" over with a new piston and rings and the crank was polished. All of that cost me $92 bucks at the machine shop excluding parts. I should have it the end of the week and will work on getting it back in the tractor. Just thought I would give an update. -Nick
 

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Likes Vintage JDs
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Well after 2.5 months at the machine shop..... lol. It now has both new valve guides, reamed with new valves. It was bored .010" over with a new piston and rings and the crank was polished. All of that cost me $92 bucks at the machine shop excluding parts. I should have it the end of the week and will work on getting it back in the tractor. Just thought I would give an update. -Nick
Nick, glad to hear the engine is almost ready. Keep us posted on how it goes when you fire it up.

Also, belated congrats on the 140. It sounds to me like you got a decent deal too!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I got the engine back from the machinist! It is 100% completely torn apart, with a box full of unlabeled bolts... Now I get to put the puzzle back together. The machinist also thoroughly cleaned the block, I mean it is spotless; I need to paint before assembly as it is the perfect time to do so. traditionally I am the type that likes to keep everything original, however, I have never been fond of the black engines in the later 140's like mine, the earlier ones and all of the big tractors all had green engines. I am thinking of going green, and leaving all of the shields black as they were. Any thoughts on this?
 

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It's your GT paint it up the way you want! I've changed the paint schemes on some of my attachments when I fix them up just to be a bit different!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well Harryc, you inspired me. Its all green! Question though, I have been searching JDparts forever and cannot find it. I ordered all of the bushings for the H3 controls to take all the slack out except where the H3 unit attaches to the frame, there is a bronze bushing in there that I cannot find the pn for. Mine is worn. When the levers are installed I can move the whole set up up and down quite a bit. I would like to replace that bushing in the frame as well as that is where most of the play is. Anyone know?
 
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