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My JD 332

27K views 250 replies 20 participants last post by  Kris OK 
#1 ·
I picked up a JD 332 a month or so ago and i can't tell you how much i love this thing. She had a lot of rust spots on her so ill be repainting to protect her. I also picked up a 46 inch deck and im in the process of fixing it up and a 4 way blade that needs some TLC.

As for the tractor im trying to locate a technical manual for it so i know how to tear things down and put them back together. I have an owners manual but it really doesn't say much that i dont already know.

This thread is a place to kinda consolidate all the other ones I have going on.
 

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#3 ·
Nice I'd like to find one for a decent price!
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Congrats on the 332, WFM has the repair manual for download
thanks this will come in handy.

that is if i can find what im looking for. So many pages of so much stuff!! Im trying to figure out how to remove the dash tower so i can get a better look at the Headlights wiring. rear work but the front dont. Also need to get the steering bracket back on that the previous owner just left off of it.
 
#6 ·
DR, Before you pull a lot of stuff apart, open hood, remove left side panel (left as sitting on tractor). Follow wires from headlights down to connector. Disconnect and check with volt meter with light switch "On". Rear lights work, so front should also...same terminal from light switch, so switch is good. Could be bad ground or burned out bulbs. Bob
 
#7 ·
Good call thats actually what i did at lunch. Took voltometer out checked to see if it was getting power out to it and it was. So i checked the connection cleaned it up a bit and they now work :)

Next thing. Does anyone know what and where this goes. I was told it was part of the steering bracket and goes somewhere between the dash panel and somewhere.. it was a piece the guy that painted my tractor forgot to put on and he said wasn't that important.... lets not get me started on the guy that painted it...

I haven't found it in the tech manual yet but im not sure where to look.
 

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#8 ·
Dr, Right close to the connector for your front wires should be a bracket...similar to what's shown...for an hour meter. Do you have an hour meter on your tractor? Bob
 
#10 ·
I looked through the parts catalog, PC2149...for a 322..., and found a similar, but not the exact same by the parts catalog. It's a steering wheel to instrument column clamp. Check if you have a similar piece on the top of your column holding your steering column in place. Also, check diameter of hole in your bracket and compare to diameter of steering column...could be a "spare part". Bob
 
#12 ·
Dr, I looked at my 322 and can't see much....lotsa stuff under there! I'd say it attaches to the underside of the pedestal. That means removing the steering wheel, throttle lever, choke lever, a whole bunch of switches, instrument panel and finally your pestal! I'd say let it be unless you want to do a frame up restoration and pull everything apart. With power steering, there's really not that much force of the steering column and your looking at...probably...6-8 hours of dismantle and and another 6-8 hours reassembly...not worth it to me! Bob
 
#16 ·
Yeh, that's why I said "similar." BUT, it prolly goes underneath, and in any case, you'll need to remove your pedestal to slip it over the steering column. Not exactly sure what that involves, but it's a LOT! Bob
 
#18 ·
So big news for the 332. I have gotten a hold of HOOSIERPETE and have a nice buford bucket on order. I am super excited for this as im hoping it will help take some of the load off my shoulders.

Pete said i needed 2 things a ballast for the rear and a rockshaft lockout valve.

the ballast and weight i have but the rockshaft im not sure about. i have not bought one yet but im contemplating adding H3 so im not sure i would even need it if i upgraded. Does anyone know if you only need the lockout valve for faster response or is there another reason.

also i have attached a picture and want to know what that screw is for. is on the back left of the tractor. thanks everyone!
 

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#19 ·
DR, That screw is a depth stop for your rockshaft. It will do pretty much the SAME THING as a lockout valve!

Right now, you probably have little or no movement on your 3-pt hitch arms. Screwing the screw in will give you more movement and backing it out, less movement.

Run the screw in, lower the arms, attach ballast box (??), raise hitch arms fully up, and turn screw out...like in pic. You should now be able to raise/lower or dump and your ballast will stay put! Bob
 
#21 ·
Dr, As I don't have a 3-pt on my 322...which is the same as a 332 except gas, not diesel... I could easily have it backwards! Turn the screw and see what happens! Bob
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
so first thing is first. I got my Mule drive back from my friend who was nice enough to weld on a new tension indicator and it works great.

with the mule drive back i tried to re-attach the deck and thats where i hit my problem. the left side goes up and down like its suppose to the side with the adjusting lift.

the right side does not the arm looks like its working but the attachment point just goes up and down. if i put 2x4 under it to level it you can see how much space there seems to be. It worked fine before i took the deck off so what am i doing wrong. I read another thread where the L would flip but looks to be fine in my case. Am i suppose to tighten something? Please help. ill attache a bunch of pictures now.

ive got no idea why picture got flipped
 

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#29 ·
Did you reinstall the deck or just the mule drive?

If you raise it up how level is it?


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#30 ·
The side to side is not where you should be adjusting the deck lift stop. The threaded rod on the rear is where you set the deck height. Lift the deck up to where you want your cutting height to be then turn the threaded rod at the rear clockwise until it stops. It will always make that height the lowest that the deck will travel down.
 
#31 ·
Did you reinstall the deck or just the mule drive?

If you raise it up how level is it?


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Right but when I raise the deck the left side is raised but the right didn’t go up. I’ll snap some pictures later today.

I had everything off the tractor same as what it came with. Just was putting them back on
 
#32 ·
There is a long steel strap that goes to the rocker arm on each side at the rear of the frame, maybe one of them came off. I would recommend that you pull the rear tire on the side that isn't lifting and inspect to see the strap is on correctly. You can see it behind the brake rods.
 

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#35 ·
Hey I recognize those photos! Copyright infringement!

No just kidding. The lifts on the left side are pretty simple. Agreed that the long metal strap may be disconnected. As crazy as it sounds, are you sure the deck is connected to the hanger? Maybe it is disconnected and just riding on the deck wheels?

So it does not move at all up or down?
This is going to drive me crazy as it was working just fine a month ago. Im certain the lift is going through the arm.

The metal strap is connect and the hydraulics seem to be working just fine. The only thing i can tell is that there is to big a gap before the deck hanger engages on the one side. I have attached pictures. I took the fender off so it was easier to see everything.

Out of curiosity how does one take off the deck lifts that attach to the frame?
 

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#34 ·
Hey I recognize those photos! Copyright infringement!

No just kidding. The lifts on the left side are pretty simple. Agreed that the long metal strap may be disconnected. As crazy as it sounds, are you sure the deck is connected to the hanger? Maybe it is disconnected and just riding on the deck wheels?

So it does not move at all up or down?
 
#41 ·
Are you positive that you have the pin in the center hole of the frame mount on both sides? If you disconnect does everything drop equally?

See the area i magnified.



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#48 ·
Yep, when I first got the 318 I thought it should come up higher too! So once you level side to side with the adjustable arm extended as far as possible, using the deck height to keep it off the ground, you should be good. Front to rear of the deck should be tilted slightly down in the front and that is adjusted on the mule drive arms that attach to the front of the deck. When I got mine it was about a two hour process to get the side to side and front to rear all lined up. Once you do it things will normally stay that way as long as you keep settings where they are. I do adjust the deck height about once every two or three mows as it will vibrate out of adjustment a bit when you have the machine running and deck raised all the way using it for other duties.
 
#51 · (Edited)
I agree with PA318guy, make your adjustable link longer so that they are more similar in length. This a picture of mine with the deck down. I didn't;t measure it but you can see many more threads than yours.
Not sure how you are making out on this but thought I'd give you something else to look at. Today I took my deck off to clean it and then when I put it back I hung it just from the non-adjusting link and then looked at how the adjusting link lined up with the hole to slide the pin through. It was a perfect match, so that would indicate that the deck is not hung up in any other way. This would also support PA's suggestion on adjusting the link. Can you try what I have described and see how yours lines up?
Yeah it turned out everyone was right and i was just expecting to have the deck up further then its suppose to go. What i ended up doing was putting in an old lug bolt cut it shorter used some washers and use a nut to take up the slack so the arm engaged earlier and my deck sat higher. I might weld something more permanent on the bracket or even look for another adjustable one sometime but for now this makes me happy
The deck now sits level and higher :)
 

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#49 ·
I agree with PA318guy, make your adjustable link longer so that they are more similar in length. This a picture of mine with the deck down. I didn't;t measure it but you can see many more threads than yours.
 

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