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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Several years ago, I bought an HT20, mainly to get the loader from it, to use on my landscaping project(s).

I rebuilt that loader, installed it on my 1886, finished the yard, and sold that tractor, with loader, to MTF member "Austen". I will be delivering that tractor to him on June 21.

I am now starting to re-engage in the HT-20 rebuild/refresh. I will not call it a restore, as I have no intention of returning the HT20 to factory specs.

I have been sandblasting and painting a lot of the frame parts, including a front bolster acquired from Blackjackjakexxix:


I took the frame rails to a local sandblaster, since they won't fit in my blast cabinet, and hope to have them back this week.

In the meantime, I have been working on the dash tower modifications necessary to accommodate the JD power steering valve I am using to add P/S to the HT-20.
The PS valve wouldn't fit into the stock dash center area:


So, I cut that part of the dash out:

And started to work on fabricating a new, wider center section that will accommodate the JD P/S valve.
I also used this opportunity to fill in a hole that a P/O put in the dash for an hour meter (that didn't work anyway). I think he used a bazooka to make that hole:

I cut a circle with a hole saw to fill the dash void:

And started to fabricate the new, wider center section:








I am hoping that this setup will give me plenty of room for the P/S plumbing in that tight space under the dash.

More to come . . . .
 

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That poor tractor finally gets to come out of the corner. I see you still have some working room in the new shop.
 

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Nice work! Gives you the opportunity to change the angle of the steering wheel too, should you so desire.
 

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Looks good Steevo!
 

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Your work looks great, that power steering is better then that old bump and go Bolens used, I know guy that used a Char-Lun steering unit in his 1250 because of the loader, my two cents.
 

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Looks good so far - I assume you are going to use a hydraulic cylinder to move the steering - where are you planning to mount the cylinder - on the right side or across the front parallel to the axle?
 

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Exciting stuff!! You have some big plans for it and I know that you'll be able to pull it all off in a very professional way throughout. :fing32:
Looking forward to following along. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks good so far - I assume you are going to use a hydraulic cylinder to move the steering - where are you planning to mount the cylinder - on the right side or across the front parallel to the axle?
My initial plan is to run the cylinder fore/aft on the right side of the frame.
Roughly in place of the original drag link location.
 

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Looks good. I'll be doing the same with a jd318 steering setup shortly. I don't *think* I'll have to modify the tower, with the exception of the mount plate. It looks like the 318 cylinder can mount with a bracket right to the two threaded factory holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I spent some time on the Ht20 project today.
First, I worked on the front axle. It had a loose center pivot shaft, so I reamed the axle out to accept some 15/16' OD bronze bushings, pressed those in, then reamed the bushings ID to just accept the axle pivot shaft.



I installed the new spindle flange bushings:


Then I got back to sandblasting and painting lots of small parts for the frame, axles, hubs, brakes, battery/tank mount, etc.

And then FedEx dropped by . . .


I had to un-box the new engine to verify it was what I ordered:


I was looking at all of the various mounting boss' and threaded flanges on the back of the engine, and looked over at an old K432 that resides under my lathe, and I thought, gee, that looks like the same bolt pattern.



So, I dug out the firewall plate from the HT20, brushed off the dirt, and put it up against the back of the engine.


I'll be damned if the folks at Kohler didn't build in backward compatibility in a 2015 engine, to have the same bolt pattern as a 1980-ish K-series engine.

These four mounting holes (marked in red) exactly align with the mounting holes in the HT20 firewall - in the second pic below.




It should work just fine with the new motor:



Kudos to Kohler for seeing that the newer engines will find their way into older Kohler-powered equipment, and preserving the older mounting flanges (even if they are metric threads now.)
 

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What is the new engine? I have a ch740s in my ht mongrel without that plate. If the old plate fits, I'll have to look for one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
JustinR : Your diesel/power steering project gave me lots of inspiration for my current project, and allowed me to learn from your process.

Crawler: This is a CH620, and from what I can find, all CH-series engines have the same set of shaft-side mounting options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Today I finished rebuilding the front axle. Every bearing, bushing, seal and ball joint is new, from hub to hub.


I also picked up my frame rails from the sandblaster today.


I found no flaws, cracks, or non-standard holes that needing welding, so I primered them.



Hopefully I can get the black paint on them this weekend, so I can start assembling things soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I finished painting the frame rails today, and moved them into the shop, ready to start sub-assembly on them.



I also started to assemble the front bolster/pto tensioner unit, for fitment to the frame.
 

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Wow, looks great Steevo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Started assembling the frame parts:
 

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Feels good to assemble stuff, don't it?
 
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