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Discussion Starter #1
Hi to all. New to the group. I have a home made tractor that my Grandfather had purchased because it is similar to the Allis Chalmers Model G. Both tractors were passed on to me.

I believe that it was built in the late 40s or early 50s. It has some Ford Model A/T parts, also Sears Handiman front end, Briggs model ZZ engine in the back. Many fabricated combinations & parts.

Someone had some mechanical knowhow (and spare parts) to build this thing. Doesn't currently run but it did a few years ago. I have just started to troubleshoot it to get it going again. A bit of a challenge to drive, it is narrow, tall and quirky.

Anyhow, here are a few photos.

Thanks,
Steve H.
 

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Model A bumper-"ettes" from the rear as a front bumper

Looks like Model A 'inners' for the rear wheels

show us the rear diff and drivetrain.
:wwp:
 

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Pretty impressive. Hope you get it running. Keep us posted.
 

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Sure enough, there is a LOT of Model-A parts in there... I love the work on the Model-A centers mated to farm tractor outer wheel rings. I see axle, torque tube (is a altered fashion?) transmission... I wonder if it started out as a doddle-bug?
 

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With so much 'A' in this tractor getting any replacement parts if needed should be fairly easy.

Just remember your 600W gear oil if you need to top off for the tranny or rear end.

Anything lighter will just seep out. Learned the hard way in my '29 :banghead3
 

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Well you learn something new everyday. I was going to say that was a typo, but I had to check first. I never knew there was such a thing as 600 wt oil! (and I am an info nut too!)
 

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Well you learn something new everyday. I was going to say that was a typo, but I had to check first. I never knew there was such a thing as 600 wt oil! (and I am an info nut too!)
600W is a designation, not an actual weight. Its thicker than the weights you can get now and coats parts. It also pours like maple syrup. When its around freezing outside you can almost pull the top off the bottle, turn it upside down and it 'suspends' for a while before coming out. Its also somewhat of a sound deadener as the gears in a model A transmission are straight cut and noisy..

I'd be curious as to how the axles were shortened because the shafts have the spider gears integrated and the outers were tapered, keyed, and threaded. I guess just cut them, stick them in a lathe and put the taper back in, add the key and remake the threads. The axle tubes are cast steel and weld fairly easily.

Anyway this is a very neat use of these types of parts and hope that its restoration and return to running status goes well with little difficulties.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all of the replies & ideas about the tractor. It certainly has had me puzzled for many years as to what some of the parts came from. I haven't had much time to spend on this tractor, and like I had said it's been primarily in storage.

Quick engine diagnosis question - should 80lbs compression be enough to start & run? I have to go through the basics, but am only getting an occassional pop when trying to start it. That's with fuel through the carb - no starting fluid or anything.

With the pull start - after a dozen or so pulls I'm done trying.


Thanks,
Steve
 

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Very nice. Looks well thought out, as well as built.
Alot of ingenuity in that machine :D

re. engine issues.
Pull the plug, reconnect the wire to it, make sure the plug is grounded, pull the start rope and look for spark.
My guess is the points are probably corroded and not making contact. This is a common problem for engines that have sat for a long time.
You can try to clean the contacts up or replace them. Also look for a kill switch.
If it's a battery type ignition make sure your getting voltage to the coil.
If it's a magneto type ignition look for a kill switch. It basically grounds out the ignition to kill the spark to shut it down.

If you've got spark and it won't start your next step will be the fuel system.
I'm not sure about that particular engine but most small air cooled engines use compression release to aid in starting so it's hard to get an accurate compression reading at slow rpm.
80lbs sounds good enough for starting IMHO tho.

Good luck
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have to see if I can find a replacement spark plug at the local NAPA. The plug in it is a VARCON E9 - I'm sure there's a conversion chart out there to a current plug.

It is making spark when I pull it over - small and white. This engine just has a grounding strip that you push against the spark plug to kill the engine. I'm sure it would be a good idea to refresh all of the ignition parts if possible.

I do know that the carburetor is not original to the engine. It is a "small Flo-jet 2 piece", and the original is a large Flo-jet. The bore is much smaller on this one. When I pull start the motor, fuel sometimes sprays & then leaks out of the carb inlet. Another item that I need to look into is the throttle cable hookup and governor/linkage. I think that the current setup might be binding or limiting the movement.

Just a few thoughts for now. I will send updates when I can work on the tractor.

Thanks.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I stopped at NAPA yesterday and picked up a new spark plug.

Put it in and it started on the first pull.

Now that it is running I am remembering one of the issues that makes it tricky to run/drive - the governor/throttle seem to have a mind of their own and increase/decrease the RPM at will. Makes it hard to go at a steady pace, and requires frequent adjustment of the (hand) throttle.


Maybe I can take a video of it running and/or take it for a spin around the yard. I'm sure that I'll find other issues that need to be taken care of too.

Steve
 
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