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DocLiv
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I wish I had ran across this site years ago.....it might have saved me some money. My GT5000 has been a nightmare.....the tractor itself is great....never had a problem with the deck or body....it's the engine. Now I learn from this site that the 2004- 27 horse Briggs & Stratton engines had a air filter problem. This is probably the reason it had to be rebuilt about 3 years ago at a cost of around $1000.00 dollars. Now the latest thing is that the last time out it starting running wild (high rpm). Whenever you would start it up....it would run wide open. Back to the shop....and now more bad news.....my mechanic (I never work on these things myself) tells me that the small screws that hold the butterfly in (in carberater) came loose and fell down inside the engine. This did a number on the engine....and now I'm looking at a new engine...or rebuild again. This is about $2000.00 dollars in engine work alone.....on a tractor that cost be around $2500.00 in 2004. I sent an email to Briggs & Stratton.....mainly just to vent...I know it is out of warranty......but this is ridiculous .....Am I expecting too much....a engine to run longer than 6 years.....geesh. It's a shame, because the tractor itself is great......wonder about trying to put another engine, besides a Briggs on it. At any rate......wonder if anybody has had this trouble....or did I just get the lemon that year.....Thanks for listening....I'm frustrated and tired of putting money in this thing......for what I'm spending and what it cost, I could have had about high end mower I wanted.
 

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Hello everyone,

I wish I had ran across this site years ago.....it might have saved me some money. My GT5000 has been a nightmare.....the tractor itself is great....never had a problem with the deck or body....it's the engine. Now I learn from this site that the 2004- 27 horse Briggs & Stratton engines had a air filter problem. This is probably the reason it had to be rebuilt about 3 years ago at a cost of around $1000.00 dollars. Now the latest thing is that the last time out it starting running wild (high rpm). Whenever you would start it up....it would run wide open. Back to the shop....and now more bad news.....my mechanic (I never work on these things myself) tells me that the small screws that hold the butterfly in (in carberater) came loose and fell down inside the engine. This did a number on the engine....and now I'm looking at a new engine...or rebuild again. This is about $2000.00 dollars in engine work alone.....on a tractor that cost be around $2500.00 in 2004. I sent an email to Briggs & Stratton.....mainly just to vent...I know it is out of warranty......but this is ridiculous .....Am I expecting too much....a engine to run longer than 6 years.....geesh. It's a shame, because the tractor itself is great......wonder about trying to put another engine, besides a Briggs on it. At any rate......wonder if anybody has had this trouble....or did I just get the lemon that year.....Thanks for listening....I'm frustrated and tired of putting money in this thing......for what I'm spending and what it cost, I could have had about high end mower I wanted.


let me guess INTEK motor right
 

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Jersey Mechanic
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1,015 Posts
If you want to save it, I have a 23 hp Briggs ELS engine that is basically new. PM me if you may be interested.
Dan
 

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653 Posts
Hello everyone,

I wish I had ran across this site years ago.....it might have saved me some money. My GT5000 has been a nightmare.....the tractor itself is great....never had a problem with the deck or body....it's the engine. Now I learn from this site that the 2004- 27 horse Briggs & Stratton engines had a air filter problem. This is probably the reason it had to be rebuilt about 3 years ago at a cost of around $1000.00 dollars. Now the latest thing is that the last time out it starting running wild (high rpm). Whenever you would start it up....it would run wide open. Back to the shop....and now more bad news.....my mechanic (I never work on these things myself) tells me that the small screws that hold the butterfly in (in carberater) came loose and fell down inside the engine. This did a number on the engine....and now I'm looking at a new engine...or rebuild again. This is about $2000.00 dollars in engine work alone.....on a tractor that cost be around $2500.00 in 2004. I sent an email to Briggs & Stratton.....mainly just to vent...I know it is out of warranty......but this is ridiculous .....Am I expecting too much....a engine to run longer than 6 years.....geesh. It's a shame, because the tractor itself is great......wonder about trying to put another engine, besides a Briggs on it. At any rate......wonder if anybody has had this trouble....or did I just get the lemon that year.....Thanks for listening....I'm frustrated and tired of putting money in this thing......for what I'm spending and what it cost, I could have had about high end mower I wanted.
Personally, I would not invest any more money into it. Take the $2K and put that towards a JD x540 and be done with it. Then sell the Craftsman for parts and don't look back.

Paul
 

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agreed, if the machine itself is fine just put a new engine in it. you may get a decent used one cheap if you look around.
The one in the thread I posted a link to was new for $820. I would think you could probably get a used one for around $450.
 

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The one in the thread I posted a link to was new for $820. I would think you could probably get a used one for around $450.
If you read the OP, he has already invested $1,000 in fixing the engine once. So that's a total of $1800 invested on top of his original $2500 purchase price, assuming he can get a new engine for $800. He's in the JD x3xx class at this point and not too far from an x5xx with a bit of financing (using his quoted $2K for a new engine price, he'd be in the x5xx range already). Also, he indicated that he does not do engine work, so I assume that he would have the local shop put in whatever engine he chose, what would that be, another $250 to $500 in labor on top of the $800 engine? Which brings you to about 1/2 the quoted new engine price from the local shop (assuming the lower labor cost).

I still say, looking at the financials involved and still not sure what you will end up with (remember, the tractor now has 6 years on its mandrel bearings, the ones in my LT only lasted about 4 years, so his could be on borrowed time), sell it and get a better GT. If you bought a tractor new, had the engine fixed due to problem that, technically, should have been a recall item, then not much later have problems again, requiring another expensive fix, things don't look good. At the end of the day, assuming the best case scenario on the OP's post, the $2000 for a new engine fixes everything, add up all the costs, the OP now has a total of $5500 invested in the tractor, but yet still doesn't have what most people would consider a $5500 tractor. This is why I say cut the losses, sell it for parts for whatever you can get from it, and take the $2K you would have spent to fix the GT5000 and use that as the down payment on the tractor you want (he indicates he'd like a high end mower).

Of course, the thread that you linked to, 357, in that case the person is not the original owner. I assume he got the tractor for a very good deal because he did not say how much he paid for it. Depending on what he paid for it, what he did does make financial sense. Per my scenario above, the financials are different when you are the original owner. Had the OP not already invested the original $1000 in the fix a couple of years ago, I would be more inclined to agree, at this point, I think its time to cut lossess.

Paul
 

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Any tractor, new and used, is going to cost money to upkeep. Oil changes, new belts, gasoline, new blades, etc, etc. I think it's a waste of money to take the tractor into the shop every time something goes wrong with it. If a guy is going to own a garden tractor, he ought to be able to wrench on it. That's just my opinion.
 

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DocLiv
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I appreciate the responses and understand that cutting my losses makes sense. I do "wrench on it" for belts and minor stuff.....I just don't do engine work.....I leave that to the professionals. My frustration with Briggs & Stratton stems from the fact that my original engine was faultly. I had my local service center replace that with a "short block" for a total cost of around 1000.00 dollars. Made sense at the time because the mower (bought new by me and garage kept) was only 3 years old...and worth it...I thought. I've emailed Briggs & Stratton and they indicate that if I had took it to an "authorized" Briggs & Stratton dealer that does warranty work instead of the "specialized" dealer I went too....that I probably would have got a engine replacement......bull$#* I'm supposed to know that the warranty will be extended by going to "authorized" dealer? I'm still communicating with them...but at this point and with what I've learned.....I'm amazed a class action suit has not been brought against them. I've even personally talked to dealers at "authorized" centers and they admit that the 04 engines where defective. I think Briggs & Stratton has done its consumers a huge injustice. I will have bought 3 Briggs & Stratton engines in 6 years if I go ahead and fix this......that is unacceptable by anybody's standards. A shame...because like I said the GT 5000 is a great unit (with a good motor)
 

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If the engine still runs, then it can't be that bad. I've seen many engines swallow choke butterfly screws or parts, they were none the worse for wear. Repair or replace the carburetor and keep going. The worst that can happen is you're out the cost of a new carb, not a whole engine.
 

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That is a pain,I know.I had a john deere with a Kohler that did the same thing.only one bolt was laying in the intake and the butterfly was in the valves.it didn't hurt it,I replaced the butterfly and new bolts and it is still running.it reved high and rattled like it was blowing up until I found the stray parts.Did yours blow?I would repair the carb and run her till it blows,if it ever does.
 

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Plowboy
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91 Posts
find a kohler engine cast the briggs to the wind. We put a K301 (12 hp) kohler on a homemade log splitter over 15 years ago. I still runs. It runs wide open at full tilt when we use it. I know kohler has had a few flops. IE the kt-17 on the deere's but they are built to last. briggs are cheaply made
 

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You paid $1000.00 for a rebuild? wow... that's high.. guess depends on the original problem and what the unecessary parts he replaced....


On my original 26HP ELS, it cost me only 200.00 in parts and me doing the wrenching.

By the way.... to let you know... You can get a brand NEW 27HP ELS engine with the redesign filter system (oval cartridge type) for $820.00 delivered to your front door by B&S Direct. A member here had done so recently.


I do "wrench on it" for belts and minor stuff.....I just don't do engine work.....I leave that to the professionals.

Dude...... If you can "wrench" on belts, pulley, deck adjustments, oil change...etc... YOU can replace the engine with a replacement. All it takes is dismounting the old, remount the new, and check all connections.. BAM thank you Ma'am.... your done.



Oh by the way Doc, just like you, I joined this forum because of my GT5000 as well.. I found this website after when my engine started smoking and i had already rebuilt the engine myself. But shortly after I joined..... B&S, after a 4 or 5 months of pestering..... replaced my rebuilt engine with a brand new one with the redesigned filter system.

I had to give up my original engine, even though i had rebuilt it, for the new engine. But hey..... 200.00 bucks in parts and my new experience in rebuilding it, by the way was my very first time ever, was well worth it.....
 

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Doc I think your engine guy wants your engine! Take it back and just do as the others have suggested and replace the carb.
 

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That is a pain,I know.I had a john deere with a Kohler that did the same thing.only one bolt was laying in the intake and the butterfly was in the valves.it didn't hurt it,I replaced the butterfly and new bolts and it is still running.it reved high and rattled like it was blowing up until I found the stray parts.Did yours blow?I would repair the carb and run her till it blows,if it ever does.
I have to agree with the bolded quote. That makes the most sense at this point, IMHO. Good thinking WG. :trink39:


Paul
 

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DocLiv
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: My GT5000 and the reason I joined (Update)

Just wanted to thank everyone for their responses and help.....especially GG GT5000 because his information and knowledge was very valuable in helping me to a great resolution. Briggs & Stratton, after many emails and much hassling, agreed to replace my engine free of charge (even including the labor) with the new type with the oval filter design. So right now I have a new engine with approximately 3 hours on it. It took a little time, but I was able to convince Briggs & Stratton that having to buy 3 engines in a six year time span was just not acceptable. I believe their aftermarket replacement sales must have been great with this particular engine type. I would encourage everyone that has had this problem to contact them......my initial contact with them left me not very hopeful.....but I persisted and finally got someone that would listen. I believe I even pointed them to a thread on this forum. At any rate, without the information and experiences of others on this forum, I don't think I would have had such success. Again, thanks everyone......
 

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If you read the OP, he has already invested $1,000 in fixing the engine once. So that's a total of $1800 invested on top of his original $2500 purchase price, assuming he can get a new engine for $800. He's in the JD x3xx class at this point and not too far from an x5xx with a bit of financing (using his quoted $2K for a new engine price, he'd be in the x5xx range already). Also, he indicated that he does not do engine work, so I assume that he would have the local shop put in whatever engine he chose, what would that be, another $250 to $500 in labor on top of the $800 engine? Which brings you to about 1/2 the quoted new engine price from the local shop (assuming the lower labor cost).

I still say, looking at the financials involved and still not sure what you will end up with (remember, the tractor now has 6 years on its mandrel bearings, the ones in my LT only lasted about 4 years, so his could be on borrowed time), sell it and get a better GT. If you bought a tractor new, had the engine fixed due to problem that, technically, should have been a recall item, then not much later have problems again, requiring another expensive fix, things don't look good. At the end of the day, assuming the best case scenario on the OP's post, the $2000 for a new engine fixes everything, add up all the costs, the OP now has a total of $5500 invested in the tractor, but yet still doesn't have what most people would consider a $5500 tractor. This is why I say cut the losses, sell it for parts for whatever you can get from it, and take the $2K you would have spent to fix the GT5000 and use that as the down payment on the tractor you want (he indicates he'd like a high end mower).

Of course, the thread that you linked to, 357, in that case the person is not the original owner. I assume he got the tractor for a very good deal because he did not say how much he paid for it. Depending on what he paid for it, what he did does make financial sense. Per my scenario above, the financials are different when you are the original owner. Had the OP not already invested the original $1000 in the fix a couple of years ago, I would be more inclined to agree, at this point, I think its time to cut lossess.

Paul
Or, spend $500.00 dollars on a suburban with a deck, and $500.00 would buy a decent one. Then, with the cash you saved by not buying a JD, take the wife on a cruise. Or, buy some more suburbans :thThumbsU
 

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Doc,

really glad to hear that it has paid off for you and you are very welcome. I'm glad that I could have been of service to you. Hope that new engine is doing well. I suspect it is. Just keep her clean, monitor the intake track, fill her up with Mobil 1 synthetic (after a few hours with straight HD30 dino oil before switching to syth), and you can run a Mobil 1 oil filter model M1-209 for more capacity.
 
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