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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This was on CL about 140 miles away and after several emails & pics back n'forth, I took a chance. I'm glad I did. Seems he did everything to it just before selling it, tune-up, oil change, he even replaced the starter with a brand new one, thinking that the starter was NG. However, he couldn't return it, because he already used it. Then, he bought a new battery, which was the problem. He even included the turf friendly tires, front & rear. All this for $200!!

After I got it back to the house, I sized up the Craftsman sleeve hitch that I had to the rear of the Murray. Not a whole lot lined up to where I could bolt it on, so, I welded it on.

The manual lift part of the Craftsman SH would be fine if it didn't go nearly to the ground when lowering. That got old real quick!!

Off to Horror Freight for a 2000lb winch, $59.99, soon to be on sale for $39 in August. (I will be getting another!)

After I got it mounted, I wired it temporarily until I find the place where I like the winch buttons. Now, if the shift were on the right hand side, I could have machined an aluminum shift knob with winch buttons, but, it doesn't. I might have to re-design the shifter on this Murray so I could incorporate the winch buttons. Now, the only "bad" thing about this winch is that the buttons are not rheostats, but "ON/OFF". I can live with that....for now, until I can find some rheostat buttons.

I will say this about the powered sleeve hitch: Can you say SHA-Weet!!!? I knew ya could.

Now, Sears has the power-assist unit for their sleeve hitch, but, $400-$500!!(?) I don't think so. And the HF alternative is a real nice alternative, PERIOD! And you'll have a winch on it to get you out of situations, too. Well worth the $59! And 99 cents.

All n'all, I'd say this tractor is worthy of new paint!













This is the fix or preventative if you are suing a winch with the SH:


This blade will either go under the tractor or I'll mount it to the front. For dirt, don't need anything bigger.
 

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That's a great set up. $200.00? sweet deal.
 

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awesome, i really like those years of murray's
 

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The Wildebeast
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great find. like the ag's! :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks.

And those AG's are loaded. LOL As are the fronts. I still more weight on the front. I've only used it for a day with the box blade and so far, nothing I've done is bogging it down, and I tried to bog it down. I even tried to climb a pile of slag. Even that didn't bog it down, tho, it did stand it on it's end and nearly went over. The only thing I could think of was, "****!" I didn't realize that a "lawn mower" could have this kind of power. And I thought my Ford YT16 pulled pretty well.

Now that I know this tractor has balls, Now, I should focus my attention to making it look good.

I know! Paint it John Deere GREEN & YELLOW!! :Stop: Yea...as if... lol :greendr:

Bob
 

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I know! Paint it John Deere GREEN & YELLOW!! :Stop: Yea...as if... lol :greendr:

Bob
Wow, you scared me for a minute there lol. :Stop::Stop::Stop::Stop:
 

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I have the same GT. Love those tires. In fact, I like your whole setup. I don't think I could bog mine down (at least in 1st gear) with anything the blade would hold.
 

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Nice Tractor!:trink40:
 

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Very nice setup! Did those old GT's have cast iron transaxles or were they aluminum?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was under it the other day cuz the belt came off, and it looked like cast iron. I'll find out tomorrow...with a magnet.


Yesterday, I removed the body panels so I could primer it and eventually paint it. When i do decide to paint it, I'll strip it completely I haven't decided on color/colors yet.

Bob
 

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Murray tractor owner
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I would make that blade into a mid-mount. They work so much better than front mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would make that blade into a mid-mount. They work so much better than front mounts.
Well, the thing about making a mid-mount is clearance and at present, there are about 2" of clearance with the blade under the tractor, from the blade to the ground. I don't think that's enough, but, I have 3 options here, 1. install 2" lift blocks on both axles; then, there's a created issue of the drive belt alignment. Or 2. modify the blade, read that as cut the blade, to increase clearance. 3. Install larger tires, front & rear.
#1 is adding to; #2 is taking from and #3 is EXPENSIVE! LOL I'd rather add to than to take from. Needless to say, #3 is eliminated.

I've never had a garden tractor with a front-mount plow, so, I don't how they would work, so, I don't have a baseline to draw from, but I do know how well a rear mount works. I suppose it would depend on the rear tires and how much weight is on the back.

I've also been thinking about, instead of making that mid-mount, I could make a bucket out of it, similar to a Johnny Bucket or the Swisher unit.
 

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Murray tractor owner
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Well, the thing about making a mid-mount is clearance and at present, there are about 2" of clearance with the blade under the tractor, from the blade to the ground. I don't think that's enough, but, I have 3 options here, 1. install 2" lift blocks on both axles; then, there's a created issue of the drive belt alignment. Or 2. modify the blade, read that as cut the blade, to increase clearance. 3. Install larger tires, front & rear.
#1 is adding to; #2 is taking from and #3 is EXPENSIVE! LOL I'd rather add to than to take from. Needless to say, #3 is eliminated.

I've never had a garden tractor with a front-mount plow, so, I don't how they would work, so, I don't have a baseline to draw from, but I do know how well a rear mount works. I suppose it would depend on the rear tires and how much weight is on the back.

I've also been thinking about, instead of making that mid-mount, I could make a bucket out of it, similar to a Johnny Bucket or the Swisher unit.
My front plow doesnt work to well to dig in much but i can push a lot. To make a mid-mount just cut the blade. Silver hair deere is making one for his craftsman.
 

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Great job! I'm thinking trying to decide whether to put out almost $400 for a linear actuator or go with a winch like you did but was thinking I'd have to go with a more expensive Warn 1700 to get a good load brake. I'm concerned about heavier sleeve hitch implements pulling the line out and lowering when traveling.
Now that you've run it a little, how does the winch do at holding the load when it's raised? Is the HF holding up alright?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Great job! I'm thinking trying to decide whether to put out almost $400 for a linear actuator or go with a winch like you did but was thinking I'd have to go with a more expensive Warn 1700 to get a good load brake. I'm concerned about heavier sleeve hitch implements pulling the line out and lowering when traveling.
Now that you've run it a little, how does the winch do at holding the load when it's raised? Is the HF holding up alright?
When you take into account the $350 price difference, HF looks pretty **** good.

As for heavier attachments pulling the line out, I don't think that can happen, as it does have a clutch and a mode for free wheeling the line.

It will and does hold a load in the raised position with no problems. I have a 39" box blade with a 75lb concrete block for ballast and have never had a problem with holding! By the way, how heavy are these implements that you'll be using?


I say go with the HF. If you can, wait for the 27th of August, when the winch goes on sale for $39!! I will be buying at least 1 more. You won't regret it! Even if you have to pay the $59 for the winch, it's still worth it.

Just think what you can do with the remaining $350 that you'll have left over!!!!! LOL

Bob
 
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