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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i bought an older gardenway troybilt tiller 6hp tecumseh. i am trying to bring it back to life. had no sparkplug just some kind of offwhite gunk plugging the hole. i took the head off. cleaned it all off. cleaned some minor buildup at the top of cylinder wall. changed oil, new sparkplug. cleaned off magneto. has a carb. leak right now. tries to start has nice bright blue spark but didn't try to start. next is to put carb kit in. it doesn't seem in bad condition at all if it has really set up as many years at the man told me i bought it from. it does need two new tires, old ones are totally rotten. i really can't see a pin to remove the wheels as i have been told. i have thought about cutting off the old tires and putting on the tire & tube on the machine. oh by the way i paid $65 for this my first troybilt. i may post a pic on here sometime if that is possible. i do have a good craftsman front tine tiller, but i have wanted one of these for years and thought this is my opportunity. as other have said these older ones are probably built better than the new ones.
 

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Welcome, you now are a owner of a piece of true "Americana".(and the price was right, I might add).
Do you have an Owners Manual by any chance ?? You WILL never regret having one.
The 5/16" pin thru the wheel and axle is there (on the inside). Might as well start with a good degreasing and cleaning to start. Then dose everything with oil. There is no such thing as overlubrication on these babies. As you are doing, step (1) is to get it to run. Run well, start 1st or 2nd pull. Then you can determine where the leaks are, strange noises, etc.
I've had good success demounting ancient tires using my 6" bench vise. Put the tire in the jaws so they just clean the edge of the rim. Crush the tire. Turn the tire a bit and do it again, all the way around the tire. The tire will separate from the rim pretty darn quick. Clean and paint the rim. Reinstall new tire and tube by putting a 1/2" rod (or 3/4" OD steel pipe in the vise vertically and drop the rim down over it. That will hold the wheel while you carefully mount the tire (I used dish soap to lube the tire for easier mounting) I also used Chinese tires at 1/2 the price of US tires.(Cheap George ;<).
P.S. My humble attempt at a '76 TB ($40.) rejuvenation project is at:
http://www.weehoose8.com/troy.html

Regards,
Ford
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ford 8 thanks for the help. where might i find some of the japanese tires you mentioned? also do only the newer troybilts have chipper attachments? how many attachments will troybilts take? thanks, alan.
 

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Google: Agricultural 4:80 x 8 tires
and pick your poision. ie. Amazon has 'em for $28 and change. Mine were like $40. for the pair, but I'm not sure now.
What is the serial number of your TB??? it's a # die cut on the flat horizontal surface of the tab on the upper right side of the transmission. You may have to REALLY clean the surface to be able to see it, but it's there. With that # we can see what model and year yours is.

The PTO (Horse 4) has 2 swing bolts that separate the tine unit from the transmission.
Attachments were generator, log splitter, chipper/shredder, and maybe something else I've forgotten.

Regards,
Ford
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
this seems too short to be it but on the top of transmission it says with an arrow "tiller serial number" ser # 435730. it also has this "TR 1003" and under that "B2". does that tell anything? the year says "TH1019" 7/25/79 for the date.
 

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Now, that helps. According to to records over at the Troy Bilt Tiller Club
on yahoo, your 435730 was mfg between 11/79 (430460), and 12/79
(435848). Probably around Xmas.
Horse I ran thru sometime in March 78, when they changed over to
Horse II which started with serial number 314151.

That makes yours a Horse II, 4 speed, (1 belt, 2 pulley grooves (of different sizes) (hi/lo), and the speed lever up and down = 4 speed total. Sound familiar ??

Lots of good knowledgeable folks over at the Tiller Club for the technical stuff.

Built in America back when "Built in America" meant something.

Regards,
Ford
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i am trying to get it to run. i replaced the needle valve on the float. new seal , used air to blow it out. put new gaskets on and reassembled it to the engine. it tries to run using starting fluid but seems to still not be getting gas. i didn't use dip carb cleaner. i didn't replace the larger needle valve in the bottom of the fuel bowl. i removed it and gas wasn't coming out but when i removed the nut or seat that holds the bowl on it started running out like there was a good amount in the bowl. should i have used the bath carb cleaner on it? do you think that might be the problem? it gets sufficient fuel from the tank.
 

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The subject of TB Tecumseh carbs has been very active over on the TB
Tiller Club on yahoo lately.
I now take the liberty to quote the TB Tiller Club moderator
(a gentleman with nearly 40 years now of working on TB's daily), concerning them thar' pesky Tecumseh carbs:

"All the passages that you can see are clean but there are places
you can't see and it is quite possible that they are corroded or stopped
up and may never come clean.
Your options are:
1. take it apart again and let it soak in a good carburetor
cleaner for awhile. Don't rush it. Then try again. We use a "Sonic" jewelry
cleaner purchased from Harbor Freight and let some of the worst ones "cook" for a day or two.
2. Live with the present condition running "Seafoam" in your fuel in pretty good concentration in hopes that it will improve.
3. Replace the carburetor assuming it may never be right. Contrary to what was said earlier, in my experience over the last 38 years, this is pretty typical of this carburetor. Once it is damaged by bad gas, it almost never comes clean."


Regards,
Ford
 

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where would be a good place to get the best (cheapest) price on a carburetor for it. www.mtdparts.com. thanks for the info. alan.
:Welcome1::wwp::wwp: Partstree.com or the troy bilt site is a good place for your parts diagrams, Jackssmallengines.com is a great parts source. The tiny passages in the bowl bolt/jet are a major source of Tecumseh carb problems. Oregon (oregonchain.com) has started selling quiet a few Tecumseh and Honda aftermarket carbs and I have had good luck with them, and you may be able to find one new on ebay for just a little over wholesale price. I deal directly with the West Coast Tecumseh and Troy Bilt distributor so if you hit a stumbling block on parts shoot me a PM. VERY nice buy and i know you will LOVE it after using a front tine tiller! Again :Welcome1: you have found a great bunch of guys and gals always willing to lend a hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i have been looking around for a carburetor and they range from $80- ovar $100. the part number is (631828) model HH60-105107f ser 92772. can anyone help me find a lower priced new one that will fit and work on my horse tiller. thanks, alan.
 

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ford 8 thanks for the help. where might i find some of the japanese tires you mentioned? also do only the newer troybilts have chipper attachments? how many attachments will troybilts take? thanks, alan.
Yours. like mine is a pre PTO machine. So the only attachments I knbow of are the wrap around bumper, the front blade, the "V" hiller and the "sweep" blade that allegedly cuts weeds just below ground level. The later PTO machines could have the tine section removed and power a log splitter, a wood chipper, an electric generator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
does anyone have any info on my last post about where to get a good price on a 631828 new carburetor for a tecumseh. thanks, alan.
 

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Don't give up on your carb just yet. First check to see that the choke and throttle shafts are not worn (they should be fairly solid in their bores). If
they are loose (usually it's the choke shaft) then try to get a replacement.
They are available but you need a good parts counter person to get it for you.The shafts being loose in their bores will allow airto be drawn in and mess up the fuel mixture.

If the shafts are firm fitting then check under the welch plugs. There are tiny little holes under there and they get plugged up. I take a piece of wire from
a tag used to identify items (sometimes a wire off a wire brush works good)
and run it in every hole you see ( a magnifying glass helps with this hide and seek issue). Next I use plain old lacquer cleaner to clean every carb I rebuild.
It works great for me. I soak some carbs for 3-4 hours. NEXT BLOW OUT EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY OF THE CARB. I rebuilt the carb on my Tr0yBuilt Pony this way. It runs great....... except that if I set it too deep for the first till I have a bucking PONY. I wonder if that is why the TroyBuilts are called the Bronco, the Horse and Pony, etc !!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks for your advice. i cleaned the carb with lacquer thinner. i guess it did a good job. it started right off, i adjusted the carb and it will pull and till even on two rotten flat tires. one small problem is when i engage the engine with the tiller it goes too far down and off the white pad it rolls on and i can't get it disengaged until i kill the engine. thought i might try grease. any suggestions? i also have a few things i need to get for it to be in the right condition, a muffler, an air cleaner, a fuel cutoff valve, and two 4:80x8 tires and tubes if needed. thanks, alan.
 

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thanks for your advice. i cleaned the carb with lacquer thinner. i guess it did a good job. it started right off, i adjusted the carb and it will pull and till even on two rotten flat tires. one small problem is when i engage the engine with the tiller it goes too far down and off the white pad it rolls on and i can't get it disengaged until i kill the engine. thought i might try grease. any suggestions? i also have a few things i need to get for it to be in the right condition, a muffler, an air cleaner, a fuel cutoff valve, and two 4:80x8 tires and tubes if needed. thanks, alan.
If you are talking about the pad that the roller goes on to lock the tiller into action, that pad is adjustable with the 2 bolts on the back. Mark it's present location in some way, (piece of tape or white out or scribe a line and then move the block a 1/16" of an inch down. Really small movements will make a big difference, that's why I mark the current location.
 

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If your still looking for a carb, goto tulsa engine warehouse, they have it there for Sale Price: $89.57.
 
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