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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Howdy all

Well I just bought my first Garden Tractor It's a Craftsman II GT6000 #917.255930. Alway's wanted one finally found one near me and in my price range($140). It will need some work was one of those "ran when parked x-year's ago by an old lady in a barn". :D

I plan on starting to go to work on it in the morning after work. What would y'all suggest be my first step should i get it running then change oil or? Any thing i should look for while tinkering with it? thanks for the info
 

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Briggs powered Sears.
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pull hood and grill and pull side tins check for mouse nests. if its got the opposed twin briggs they will pop valve seats if overheated. i fixed my one a couple weeks ago that had loose valve seat by staking it back it.
 

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Farmallking,

Oil and filter.

Spark plugs.

Drain gas as best you can, fresh fuel for sure, use stabilizer and ethanol treatment.

Obviously battery (see one in pics).

Bet it will surprise you and make some noise.

Good luck with the old girl!

Bruce
 

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pull hood and grill and pull side tins check for mouse nests. if its got the opposed twin briggs they will pop valve seats if overheated. i fixed my one a couple weeks ago that had loose valve seat by staking it back it.



If the valve seats comes loose again keep me in mind. I can tell you how to make the valve seat securing a permanent fix on the twins and some single cylinder l-head Briggs engines. (sometimes the staked seat will come out again later):tango_face_surprise
Can be done while the engine is still in the machine.


Right remove the engine tins and use a air hose and clean out the engine fins and use a dust mask and blow out the complete mower and you will find that doing such quite often after mowing is a good thing.

Check the v-belts. You can save some big bucks once you get the size of the belts by going to ebay do some search shopping and get Kevlar belts.

Kevlar cost little more but will last longer than conventional belts.

Pay attention to the deck noise when it's en-gauged. Might even trip off the deck belt and spin the blades by hand and listen if the bearings sound dry or noisy. If so don't panic yet, may just need some bearings. Main thing is you can replace sindle bearings Without removing the spindle housing usually.

Download that owners manual.
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
How can i determine what year my mower is?
Model #917.255930

Serial #2241S09719

Engine Serial #91080112 91/08/01 plant 12

Thanks for any help Google and the manual has been of no help on this info
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter #12
Update: She's ALIVE!!!

So it was warm enough i spent the day working on the old girl. I pulled the Deck off and Cleaned the fuel tank. Cleaned the motor fin's good and every where under the hood. Also put on a few new part's like a fuel line, Fuel filter, Fuel pump, Volt meter and a Battery. Did an oil change and poured a little fuel down the carb and within a couple cranks she fired up!


Took it for a test drive all gear's worked Hi and low worked.


Took the deck apart, cleaned it, took the blade's off sharpened them, Replaced the Deck belt and put the new shield/grass deflector on (surprised Sear's still had new one's in stock). Everything spun free but, one tower/pulley felt dry? Soaked with PB Blaster it got a lot better but, will probably need replaced. Put the deck back on. Tested the Electric PTO it worked great sounded a little rough for a few sec's though slinging that rust off.

Pulled it into some grass and it mowed great.

I do believe it will need a New PTO Clutch. It has a bad whine at idle with the PTO off. It clear's up when mowing though.

Lastly took the hood off and cleaned the nasty headlight assembly, cleaned the light switch terminal and the light's work as well. I couldn't be happier!!


Here's some video's hope they load up the up-loader was giving me trouble




 

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Just couple tings I noticed in your last post and video:

You mentioned that tower pulley spindle seemed dry: Might want to re-search checking/replacing the spindle bearings before they shell out.
You can check and replace them with the spindle housing still attached to the deck. You-tube and here can get you some tips. You can save some big bucks by jusdt replacing the bearings instead of the complete spindle. Their are usually 2 bearings/spindle and if bearing starts seizing or shelling out it can ruin your new belt and maybe a pulley. A 1/2 inch impact wrench is your friend when working on the deck spindle bearing area. Once you have been into one spindle replacing the bearings the next time will be easier in time and labor. (I have re-packed the bearings with grease if they are not too far gone but new bearings are readily available from a auto parts store or ebay and not expensive.

Also you might want to check/adjust the deck anti-scalp plastic wheels. They should just float slightly above the ground when the deck is at it's lowest position. The mower carries the deck load when it's properly adjusted, if the plastic wheels carry the load they will soon wear out/break. This may be mentioned in your owners manual.

That is one of craftsman's better mowers with the Horizontal crankshaft engine and electric clutch.
You mentioned a whine in the electric clutch with it off. You can find some info on-line (and maybe in owners manual) about how to check and properly adjust the clutch. If the air gap is not adjusted properly the brake can rub and make a slight scraping noise or a bad bearing may whine. Them complete clutch assemblies are expensive and usually just little bit of PROPER TLC in this area can save you some big bucks. Might just be a idler pulley bearing down below the electric clutch area.

Good job.
 

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Briggs powered Sears.
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2,856 Posts
Update: She's ALIVE!!!

So it was warm enough i spent the day working on the old girl. I pulled the Deck off and Cleaned the fuel tank. Cleaned the motor fin's good and every where under the hood. Also put on a few new part's like a fuel line, Fuel filter, Fuel pump, Volt meter and a Battery. Did an oil change and poured a little fuel down the carb and within a couple cranks she fired up!


Took it for a test drive all gear's worked Hi and low worked.


Took the deck apart, cleaned it, took the blade's off sharpened them, Replaced the Deck belt and put the new shield/grass deflector on (surprised Sear's still had new one's in stock). Everything spun free but, one tower/pulley felt dry? Soaked with PB Blaster it got a lot better but, will probably need replaced. Put the deck back on. Tested the Electric PTO it worked great sounded a little rough for a few sec's though slinging that rust off.

Pulled it into some grass and it mowed great.

I do believe it will need a New PTO Clutch. It has a bad whine at idle with the PTO off. It clear's up when mowing though.

Lastly took the hood off and cleaned the nasty headlight assembly, cleaned the light switch terminal and the light's work as well. I couldn't be happier!!


Here's some video's hope they load up the up-loader was giving me trouble

https://youtu.be/VhYz8-tn-wk

https://youtu.be/s6wrSHhqRP0

https://youtu.be/mAZlXutBVB4

https://youtu.be/zUG6xkNY5iI
my one 92 does that same noise and its got a brand new clutch on it. i would just run it until it breaks i do know you can get clutches off ebay. mines a extreme clutch
 

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I had two neighbors with those and they ran the crap out of them. that's a good mower that was when they were building them good.
 

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Briggs powered Sears.
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I had two neighbors with those and they ran the crap out of them. that's a good mower that was when they were building them good.
they are good if you maintain them. my one 92 was popping alot but still had plenty of power pushed my 50 inch deck through 4 foot tall grass. but i finally found out reason it was popping both intake valves were bad even after resurfacing they skipped all over when lapping them. i had to put new valves in. its running good since. anotherthing to check is carb and fuel delivery these tank are prone to clogging if the cap falls apart
 

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I had two neighbors with those and they ran the crap out of them. that's a good mower that was when they were building them good.
they are good if you maintain them. my one 92 was popping alot but still had plenty of power pushed my 50 inch deck through 4 foot tall grass. but i finally found out reason it was popping both intake valves were bad even after resurfacing they skipped all over when lapping them. i had to put new valves in. its running good since. anotherthing to check is carb and fuel delivery these tank are prone to clogging if the cap falls apart
"Four foot tall grass" I'm pretty sure my newish gravely would be acting funny if was trying to mow that lol.
 

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Briggs powered Sears.
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"Four foot tall grass" I'm pretty sure my newish gravely would be acting funny if was trying to mow that lol.
well around here grass dont get thick but i still went low first it was around neighbors blueberry patch
 

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Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter #19
Update: So had the carb rebuilt, full tune up and gave it a good hour long test mow. Ran great, plenty of power no smoke. Mowed amazing like i remember these old one's did.

When i got done i had oil on the right side of my hood and all over the right side engine bay. After i let it cool off completely took all the hood's and covers off and sprayed the motor down with de-greaser. Then rinsed all the old grime off i found two oil leak's.

First one was the oil dipstick tube grommet had a leak (new one came in today.) Easy fix

Second one was where the governor stuff mounts to the block (pic below) had a slow leak. While i was taking the breather off to get to the bolt. I noticed something in the right PVC hose (pic below) the filter media in the PVC thing was gone and someone stuck a Spark plug boot and piece of cloth in the hose to stop it up. With the motor running now air blow's out of the right PVC hose while the left side does not. What is going on? Valve seat maybe?

Hard to believe with how good it ran but, if y'all have any insight I'd appreciate the help thanks
 

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