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Discussion Starter #1
I see that others have started a separate thread, on their rebuilds, so I guess it is the expected thing to do. If not, please let me know and I will stop posting the updates.

Last week, I found an add on Craig's List in which all the guy wanted to trade the LGT 165 for a working lawn tractor so he could cut his grass. I had obtained a 2002 Bolens tractor, with 38in deck, last year, that someone had given to me because he thought the transmission was bad. Turns out it had sat a long time and the brake was locked up. Nice clean tractor with no rust. I sent an email to the lister telling him what I had, and we swapped even up. On Tuesday we met at a rest stop on US95 close to Delaware, and made the swap. The result is two very happy campers.

I get home and start it up and it runs pretty good for for a 37 year machine. the deck has a bit of rust and some holes and I am not sure that it should be fixed. Time will tell. Anyway, I ran it all over the neighborhood just to have a little fun and it is a great machine.

Yesterday I ordered a Carb rebuild kit, and new air filter and bought a palm sander. I also removed the hood and have taken the outside down to bare metal except where the decals are mounted. Don't know how I lived 73 years without one. Have to get a heat gun for that I suppose. Will do that tomorrow. That sander was a good idea.

I also put new fuel line and cutoff valve on it. Took a small mirror and looked inside the stock gas tank and saw no appreciable rust except for a few small spots that will need no attention. Gas cap has been repaired with some kind of foam (don't understand that) but for now is serviceable. Outside of tank is completely covered with original paint and solid.

Although there is a 3 point hitch on it, there is no rear power takeoff. I mentioned this on my original thread in which I introduced myself to this forum and a very nice guy (donimbimbo) told me about Craigslist add in Minneapolis had one for sale. I emailed him and he has agreed to ship it to me. cost $130.00 including shipping. Which I was more than willing to pay. Am mailing him a check today. Thanks Don.

Now I need a complete set of decals, a dirt plow for the back and a tiller. Saw a tiller today, but the guy is asking $800.00. I think that is a bit steep, although if that is the going price I might consider it. Notice I said MIGHT!!!

I just tried to upload a few photos, but they were a bit large. I will downsize them and load them up later. In the mean time you can check it out here.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=120880

Next I must decide about paint. What do most of you do for paint when restoring these things. I am tempted to buy a good spray gun and use it, although the ease of using a can is tempting. You don't have to worry about thinning and matching color. Buy enough cans from the same lot and you are pretty much assured of an even match. My question is will it hold up as well as a spray can job. I could prep everything and then take it to a shop to be painted. But I am a do-it-yourself type and get more satisfaction that way.

I do get a bit long winded, so if I bore anyone and I am not breaking the rules, simply don't read my updates. If I am breaking rules of this forum, please let me know immediately. At my age, you try to live by rules. It just makes life easier.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Some photos of this project.
 

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Ford LGT 100
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http://maplehunterdecalstexas.com/

Decals... ;)

That's a good looking unit all in itself.. Heck, you don't even NEED paint IMO..

But..

Your local TSC will have the paint in stock, Ford Blue.. I'm not 100% sure that it matches.. The more expensive paint stands up to weather better and resists fading more.

A good auto parts store can get the paint so long as you have the code.. NAPA, PPG, Whatever.

Good source for external information:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Jacobsen_Ford_Garden_Tractors/

I never post there, just read over the discussions.. Not a fan of the Yahoo groups format.
 

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I'll never get to 10,000
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Nice looking GT. They are one tough machine & I'm sure you'll be happy with it. We had one many years ago and it did everything I asked and more.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well I just came back in from doing a little work in the shed. Removed the fender pan from the tractor. I had to stop early because I have an appointment at 5:30 PM. This looks like it will be a pretty easy job. the paint under the pan is in pretty good shape, and won't take much to spruce up I will power wash it tomorrow with some gunk and then get a better idea of what needs to be done.

Here are a few more photos of what I did today. :thThumbsU
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #7
http://maplehunterdecalstexas.com/

Decals... ;)

That's a good looking unit all in itself.. Heck, you don't even NEED paint IMO..

But..

Your local TSC will have the paint in stock, Ford Blue.. I'm not 100% sure that it matches.. The more expensive paint stands up to weather better and resists fading more.

A good auto parts store can get the paint so long as you have the code.. NAPA, PPG, Whatever.

Good source for external information:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Jacobsen_Ford_Garden_Tractors/

I never post there, just read over the discussions.. Not a fan of the Yahoo groups format.
It is hard to follow through with a thread there. They skip around a lot. They do have some good information though.
 

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Deere 330 Killer
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i agree, dont paint it.
 

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Ford LGT 100
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Looking at the hood, a little LATE for that! :D :D

But.. It does give me something to watch while I puts around on working on mine.. You're moving WAY faster than I am/would.

Good luck with the painting and be sure to bore us all with lots of text AND pictures! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i agree, dont paint it.
Got to paint it now, I already have most of the sheet metal off and half of it sanded down. Took it out of the shed this evening and gunked the you-know-what out of it then power washed it. Frame is in good shape so I don't think I will do much sanding there. A few rust spots and I will work on them tomorrow or the next day. Besides I could not live with myself if I did not redo it. That's why I built that big shed. I was going to start on my Wheel Horse 417A, but when I got the Ford, it moved down the line a bit.

As I was sanding the hood, I did not find any primer. There us very little rust for a machine built in 1973. Off to the paint store tomorrow I think.
 

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My favorite picture is of the rear fender laying on that Deere John. Nice to see a fellow with his priorities correct:fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My favorite picture is of the rear fender laying on that Deere John. Nice to see a fellow with his priorities correct:fing32:
I have two of those Deere LX188s. Both very nice tractors, but they will not hold a candle to the Ford or the Wheel Horse. The Deere tractors are very smooth running machines with the 17hp Kawasaki water cooled engines and the decks are indestructible but I doubt they will be usable in another 20 years. I will probably get rid of them sometime this summer if the right deal comes along. I will use them for trade bait or simply put a for sale sign on them. Mean time they don't eat anything and rest comfortably where they sit. Besides restoring a plastic Deere is not half the fun as working on a Ford or Wheel Horse and the parts for a Deere are are very deer indeed.

If anyone out there has a Wheel Horse or a Ford and wants to trade down to a Deere let me know.
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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Ford LGT 100
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AHHH! NOOOO!!!!!!!! AHHHH!!!!!!!

Errr...

Looks comfortable. ;)

Say, what are you going to do with that old seat?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
AHHH! NOOOO!!!!!!!! AHHHH!!!!!!!

Errr...

Looks comfortable. ;)

Say, what are you going to do with that old seat?
Don't knwow yet. I have a l;ine on another 165. Been sitting a long time and the price is right. Let you know.
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I started to remove the motor today. Why in Gods name do they weld the oil sump to the frame? Dumbest thing I have ever seen. Not that I can't get it off, but not sure I want to, although it will make painting a little more complicated. :banghead3

Also loaded the steering wheel with Liquid Wrench a few times in preparation for my attempt to remove it. Will pick up a bearing splitter this evening to make the job a little easier. I also started labeling the wires and other parts to facilitate getting them back in the right place.

Next is to remove the 3 point and all those lift rods and bars. I took a lot of photos just in case. Have to get a little pocket camera. Using a $5000.00 SLR is cumbersome.
 

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Ford LGT 100
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Wait, the 165 had the pan welded to the frame? I thought that was just the smaller ones (like mine).

The units were painted with the engines in place, all in one shot. Then the body was bolted in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Last night I tried to remove the steering wheel!!!!!!!! Went to three auto parts stores trying to find a bearing splitter. No one even knew what I was talking about:Disgus:

I decided to attempt an improvisation using two muffler clamps. As I tightened the puller, it started to tilt off center and I stopped. The muffler clamps are unstable and do not apply pressure evenly which results in the puller moving off center. this put a screeching halt to my efforts to remove the steering column.

Anyone know where I can get a bearing splitter??????

I can't remove the dashboard pedestal without getting that steering wheel off.:beatdeadh

Any suggestions??????
 

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Ford LGT 100
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Amazon.com, or elsewhere. Or a DECENT auto parts store.. Not these big box stores.
 
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