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The gas could be in the oil from before... but in any case one drain and fill is plenty, and you don't have to do anything with the spark plugs.

Can you hear the bowl solenoid 'click' when you turn the key to the 'on' position? That shouldn't cause flooding but anyhow...

SOMEtimes, after being apart, the float needle will be a little finicky for just a bit. How did you determine gas in the oil? Was the level way high, or did it smell?

I suggest doing the oil change since it sounds like it needs it anyhow, then try again with the starting and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Ok, I found another post on this forum that makes me think the issue is that the o-ring is not the exact same size as the original one. This person seems to have had the same issue and he found that his o-ring had lost its roundness over time and once it was replaced, his issue was fixed.
Here's a link to that discussion:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=415258
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Hi Kubota Ronin...the level was a little higher than before, but just barely. It was the smell. It smells like gas and oil now. I had checked it the other day, and it smelled normal (just oil). So, I am pretty sure this is a new issue because I haven't tried to start the mower since the last time I checked/smelled the oil I am thinking I messed up by not getting the exact same size o-ring. It was not much of a difference, but could fuel leak from there if the o-ring isn't seated/fitted exactly right?
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I actually tried to listen for the bowl solenoid to make that clicking sound back when I first tried troubleshooting this mower (before I took off the carburetor bowl or any of that). I never could hear a click, but I can't ever remember hearing a click before when the mower was working, so maybe I need to try again and listen closer. It should click when I turn the key right, before it ever gets to the point of trying to turn over?
I can go try it again to see if it clicks, if I don't need to turn the key far enough that it will cause the oil/gas to flow into the engine...I am scared that I will mess it up if I do that again.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Ok, I will change the o-ring out and out one in that fits just like the old one (just in case that's the issue) and then I will change the oil and filter. Then I'll try to start it again and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I just want to thank you all again for your help on this. It was a great feeling when I was talking to the small engine repair guy and I was able to ask for pricing info from him and I knew what to ask for and I understood what he was saying too. When he asked me what kind of engine I had, I was able to tell him the engine number and that I thought it was a Nikki 2 Barrel Carburetor. He was surprised ;-)
So thanks again for your teaching and patience through my mistakes, even if I have to pay him to replace the carburetor after all, this is a great learning experience...and I haven't thrown in the towel yet. :)
 

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Affirmative on the above, sounds like a Plan. And kudos for sticking with it.

Too bad you're not just a little closer... pretty sure one of these would work:



:D

They don't call me the "O-ring King" for nothin' ya know... :1287:
 

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Did you end up poking and spraying the jets up inside the carburetor once you took the float off? Either way, it fired right up so that is a good sign.

I don't think your carburetor is bad, it just sounds like the O-ring you replaced didn't fit exactly right. Now that you have had the bowl off once, getting it off again wont be too hard. Really try to find the best fitting O-ring you can and install it. That sounds like all the problem is. Then take the float and needle off again and make sure everything goes back together correctly. The float and needle may not have gone back together exactly right and could be the problem too.

I am not too sure how the carb solenoid works or how to test it, I wish I could help you more with that. Maybe someone else here will know more about it?

As for the gas in the oil, just changing the oil will fix it. The gas will evaporate out once the engine gets hot.

I would also ask the small engine repair guy how much a carburetor cleaning is, That is all you ever really needed in the first place anyways.

Good luck and keep at it!
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Too bad you're not just a little closer... pretty sure one of these would work:





They don't call me the "O-ring King" for nothin' ya know...
Wow, I never thought I'd be impressed by the size of a guy's o-ring collection, but...call me impressed!
I live in Texas at the moment. Probably moving in a few months, but in the DFW area until then. I'm not sure they have NAPA auto parts here (they had them in Alaska where I was born and raised). I've seen AutoZone though so I will see if they have an o-ring that would work.
 

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Both those other posters are talking about a single Nikki carb. O-ring and gasket in different place than your carb.
The o-ring being too skinny could cause running issues but I don't think it can cause fuel to get into oil. Neither will solenoid.
The float and needle valve it operates is the only thing that shuts off fuel to the bowl.
Nikki needle valves can be harder to find.
Even a speck of hair or fuzz on the rubber tip area will keep it from sealing.
You might want to take it out again. Use a Q-Tip with part of cotton removed to spin up in there. Then spray carb cleaner and air to make sure no fuzz. Look with flashlight and/or mirror.
If the rubber tip has really noticeable ring groove in it from where it seals on seat it probably needs replaced.
It should be soft to medium soft rubber.
If this doesn't seal when float rises up you will flood carb with fuel and it will eventually get into oil.
For now, you can just put a cheap plastic 1/4 turn fuel shutoff in the fuel line right near carb. Turn this off before you turn the key off.
This will stop the gas in oil.
Would be nice to get the right needle valve but if you get it all running nicely now, you can do that later.
75 is too much to swap a carb IMO. That's almost shop prices. Some shops would do it for that.
Plus I think these carbs are way expensive currently.
You can get the walbro and Nikki single barrel and aftermarkets cheap on eBay, but I think the Double ones are pricey.
If it started and ran for that long.... you're almost there.
Put a fuel shutoff on it, change oil and filter(should hold a little less than 2 qts) and go mow.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Did you end up poking and spraying the jets up inside the carburetor once you took the float off? Either way, it fired right up so that is a good sign.

I don't think your carburetor is bad, it just sounds like the O-ring you replaced didn't fit exactly right. Now that you have had the bowl off once, getting it off again wont be too hard. Really try to find the best fitting O-ring you can and install it. That sounds like all the problem is. Then take the float and needle off again and make sure everything goes back together correctly. The float and needle may not have gone back together exactly right and could be the problem too.
I did spray carb cleaner into the jets once I had the float off. It was a little tricky putting the float pin back in while holding the float and the needle and everything in place. And I was being extra careful not to mess up the level of the float. It did seem to fit back in easily once it was in place.
So, I'm hoping its seated correctly.

When it ran for those 20 secs or so, it sounded great and I was so excited :)
So, I'm hopeful changing the o-ring will get it going well again.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
For now, you can just put a cheap plastic 1/4 turn fuel shutoff in the fuel line right near carb. Turn this off before you turn the key off.
This will stop the gas in oil.
Would be nice to get the right needle valve but if you get it all running nicely now, you can do that later.
75 is too much to swap a carb IMO. That's almost shop prices. Some shops would do it for that.
Plus I think these carbs are way expensive currently.
You can get the walbro and Nikki single barrel and aftermarkets cheap on eBay, but I think the Double ones are pricey.
If it started and ran for that long.... you're almost there.
Put a fuel shutoff on it, change oil and filter(should hold a little less than 2 qts) and go mow.
Ok, I found a video showing how to put the shutoff valve on just like you said.
So, I will do that and change the oil.
If the o-ring is the issue, the fuel shutoff valve will be a temporary fix for that too right since no more fuel will be coming into the carb after the motor is turned off?

Yes, I feel like it is really close to running well again...it just needs a little more work.
 

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Ok, I found a video showing how to put the shutoff valve on just like you said.
So, I will do that and change the oil.
If the o-ring is the issue, the fuel shutoff valve will be a temporary fix for that too right since no more fuel will be coming into the carb after the motor is turned off?

Yes, I feel like it is really close to running well again...it just needs a little more work.
Yes, the shutoff will stop all flow. I just don't think o-ring can cause carb overflow. It has to be up top where the gas comes in (float, needle, seat) not sealing off so bowl overflows and pressure forces up into carb and intake.
Be ready to work the choke a bit to keep it running when you start it next time.
Not uncommon on recently dirty one to not be fully clean and need some choke or after a few minutes of running a piece of dirt frees up and goes to a jet and restricts fuel flow.
 

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Wow, I never thought I'd be impressed by the size of a guy's o-ring collection, but...call me impressed!
I live in Texas at the moment. Probably moving in a few months, but in the DFW area...
Thanks... and only 6,500 miles away then... :)


Nice to have a shutoff anyhow... makes changing the fuel filter that much easier, and peace of mind when parking it for a while.

When I shut down the Shibaura (gas-fueled Briggs) I usually reach down and turn off the fuel just before turning off the ignition. When I remember...
 

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Wow, I never thought I'd be impressed by the size of a guy's o-ring collection, but...call me impressed!
I live in Texas at the moment. Probably moving in a few months, but in the DFW area until then. I'm not sure they have NAPA auto parts here (they had them in Alaska where I was born and raised). I've seen AutoZone though so I will see if they have an o-ring that would work.
A quick search on Napa's website shows several Napa's in both Dallas and Fort Worth. If you do find a Napa, they will have the 1/4" fuel shut-off valve as well.

Also, if you have a harbor freight near by, you can pick up one of these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-67554.html :bannana:
 

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Oooooooooooo-rings YEAH!!! WOOT!!! :woohoo1:

Seriously though everyone should have a selection like that on hand... no way to go wrong.

$10 or whatever for that one Victoria needs, see 'em usually between that and $3... say $5 average easy for the OE package of exactly one?

382 for $8 works out to... what like 2c each? Not to mention time/headaches/hand and knees searching avoided. Heck you could practically feed 'em to the dog for that...

I tally my stash at around 1270 fully stocked... the red silicone ones are a little pricey but still. ~$80 overall investment equals something like 6c a piece.

Never being stuck... priceless.

Don't even get me started about my hose clamp hoard... :hide:
 

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A quick search on Napa's website shows several Napa's in both Dallas and Fort Worth. If you do find a Napa, they will have the 1/4" fuel shut-off valve as well.

Also, if you have a harbor freight near by, you can pick up one of these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-67554.html :bannana:
You'll be amazed at what a Carquest, Napa, or other "non-Autozone, O'Reilly, etc" stores have. The "big box" automotive stores stock the high demand items, but the mom and pop stores will carry some really interesting stuff. Some even have a good selection of large nuts and bolts that you can't find at Lowes and such. I'd bet that my cousin's store still has an old oil spout hiding in there somewhere. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #99
There is a Harbor Freight pretty close so I will definitely go pick up one of those o-ring kits...Wow, I should not run out of o-rings for years!
It will be a couple of days until I get back to fixing my mower because my A/C went out last night (when it rains, it pours). So, the next day or two will be spent taking it easy and trying to stay cool. My home owner's insurance is sending someone over to fix it, but it takes 2 days to get them here unless its an emergency. In Texas, your A/C being out is not considered an emergency unless its 95 degrees or more...This Alaska girl begs to differ. ;-)
Anyway, I have a good feeling about my mower and think it will be good with the shut off valve and an oil change and letting it run a bit. I will replace the o-ring just in case and try to make sure the float needle is well seated and I will see if I can hear the fuel solenoid clicking when I try to start the mower.
Then I will let you all know if it worked or not. It just might be Friday or so until I get back to it. Watch this space for some good news hopefully :)
 

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There is a Harbor Freight pretty close so I will definitely go pick up one of those o-ring kits...Wow, I should not run out of o-rings for years!
It will be a couple of days until I get back to fixing my mower because my A/C went out last night (when it rains, it pours). So, the next day or two will be spent taking it easy and trying to stay cool. My home owner's insurance is sending someone over to fix it, but it takes 2 days to get them here unless its an emergency. In Texas, your A/C being out is not considered an emergency unless its 95 degrees or more...This Alaska girl begs to differ. ;-)
Anyway, I have a good feeling about my mower and think it will be good with the shut off valve and an oil change and letting it run a bit. I will replace the o-ring just in case and try to make sure the float needle is well seated and I will see if I can hear the fuel solenoid clicking when I try to start the mower.
Then I will let you all know if it worked or not. It just might be Friday or so until I get back to it. Watch this space for some good news hopefully :)


Today I had to "re-clean" a carb I had done a few days ago. Originally I had done this one on the engine and it ran great. Then I left for about an hour and when I came back there was gas leaking out of the carb and all over the floor. When I pulled it apart this is what I found.

If you look at the second picture closely you can see a small piece of debris where the valve seats, allowing the bowl to overflow.

This machine has been a headache from the beginning. PO hit something hard enough to bend the exhaust bracket, grille, & side panel, had the wrong deck belt on, made a mess of the wiring, and had the cover over the transmission off (and lost it) I'm assuming so he could jump the solenoid.


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