My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As can be seen in pics my new " medium blade" I got from Richards looks to me like it is almost to long.
It does spin without hitting anything but if it was 1/8" longer it would'nt, it actually goes inside of the blocks on the side that holds the deck up and the skids attach to.
I can grind the ends of it down a bit if need be but does this look normal?
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,440 Posts
What's the end to end dimension of the blade?

I measured several in my parts pile, including one that I think is NOS, and another new manufacture one. All came to 29-1/2". I measured a spare deck, and got 29-1/4" between the skids. On that deck, the blade tip does travel slightly inside the opening of the skid support.

Unless your blade is significantly longer than 29-1/2", I'd say you have nothing to worry about.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,681 Posts
I find it really depends on the specific make/model mower. Some of mine have a big gap (my Ariens WAW34 is one), some a medium gap (Ariens 21" mower, blade is maybe 3/8" or so from the housing, but would touch the lip of the deck if it was bent up), and some are really close (Snapper 52" walkbehind, where on one size it's within 1/8" of the deck).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I got your other thread Gerrard.
Thanks I dont know what the heck happened. I erased like three pages of it and it kept coming back.
I think I fell asleep when typing it and my finger was on keyboard somewhere for 5 mins or so lol! Man, crazy!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
What's the end to end dimension of the blade?

I measured several in my parts pile, including one that I think is NOS, and another new manufacture one. All came to 29-1/2". I measured a spare deck, and got 29-1/4" between the skids. On that deck, the blade tip does travel slightly inside the opening of the skid support.

Unless your blade is significantly longer than 29-1/2", I'd say you have nothing to worry about.
Im ashamed to say I didnt measure it this time but I did it once before this freaked me out.
Im gonna have to find it on here cause Ive got my leg uncovered for the night. I'll get it tomorrow morn if I cant find it on here.
BTW I got it started today and it really sounds great and no smoke since I tightened down the head bolts just a bit but I dont get it but it never seems to start when my new kill-button in handle bar is hooked up, and so I un-screw it from stud and bold on magneto and get it started but also I cant get that down there to manually shut the tractor off either?
I push the metal side of that plastic "hat" I'll call it against the mag and nothing happens, so I turn gas off and close airway off with choke till it clunks out. These little things are more aggrivating then the big stuff lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I find it really depends on the specific make/model mower. Some of mine have a big gap (my Ariens WAW34 is one), some a medium gap (Ariens 21" mower, blade is maybe 3/8" or so from the housing, but would touch the lip of the deck if it was bent up), and some are really close (Snapper 52" walkbehind, where on one size it's within 1/8" of the deck).
Kinda worrysome. Luckilly I do have a cpl other decks but they are the same ones.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Im ashamed to say I didnt measure it this time but I did it once before this freaked me out.
Im gonna have to find it on here cause Ive got my leg uncovered for the night. I'll get it tomorrow morn if I cant find it on here.
BTW I got it started today and it really sounds great and no smoke since I tightened down the head bolts just a bit but I dont get it but it never seems to start when my new kill-button in handle bar is hooked up, and so I un-screw it from stud and bold on magneto and get it started but also I cant get that down there to manually shut the tractor off either?
I push the metal side of that plastic "hat" I'll call it against the mag and nothing happens, so I turn gas off and close airway off with choke till it clunks out. These little things are more aggrivating then the big stuff lol.
Do you use the one that goes under the supports at all?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,440 Posts
I dont get it but it never seems to start when my new kill-button in handle bar is hooked up
Sounds like your handlebar-mount kill switch is always engaged.
I push the metal side of that plastic "hat" I'll call it against the mag and nothing happens
Is the mag painted? Is the back side of the kill tab corroded? What you're doing there is grounding out the condensor. Anything that prevents an electrical connection between the kill tab and the mag body will prevent it from working.

You can rig a simple kill "switch" by sticking a piece of wire on the small bolt which holds the kill tab, and leaving the other end loose. It'll run. Touch the other end of the wire to some unpainted part of the chassis. It'll quit. Better yet, pull out the plug, hook it up and lay it on the head. Crank by hand. Observe that with the wire disconnected, you get a spark. With it connected, you don't. All that will prove that you can kill the spark. Then you can set about debugging why your kill switch is always engaged, and why the kill tab isn't working.
 

·
Daryl G
Joined
·
895 Posts
...BTW I got it started today and it really sounds great and no smoke since I tightened down the head bolts just a bit but I dont get it but it never seems to start when my new kill-button in handle bar is hooked up, and so I un-screw it from stud and bold on magneto and get it started but...
Mark,
Just out of curiosity... when your machine was running, did you go through the levers and check the high/low and forward/reverse for movement of the Gravely?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Mark,
Just out of curiosity... when your machine was running, did you go through the levers and check the high/low and forward/reverse for movement of the Gravely?
Nope, with my luck it woulda taken off and I couldnt have gotten it stopped, considering I cant get it to shut off untill it runs the feed out of fuel and I choke it off. There is no deck or anything attached to it yet...Man that would be a cluster lol ! I can see me limping trying to stop that thing while its goin thru the fence lol! Or better yet the ole "wheel barrow style" when the PTO burys itself into the ground then I go uver the bars...OMG!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like your handlebar-mount kill switch is always engaged.

Is the mag painted? Is the back side of the kill tab corroded? What you're doing there is grounding out the condensor. Anything that prevents an electrical connection between the kill tab and the mag body will prevent it from working.

You can rig a simple kill "switch" by sticking a piece of wire on the small bolt which holds the kill tab, and leaving the other end loose. It'll run. Touch the other end of the wire to some unpainted part of the chassis. It'll quit. Better yet, pull out the plug, hook it up and lay it on the head. Crank by hand. Observe that with the wire disconnected, you get a spark. With it connected, you don't. All that will prove that you can kill the spark. Then you can set about debugging why your kill switch is always engaged, and why the kill tab isn't working.
ok ..Yes "someone" painted the mag but it wasnt me, well I did paint the front cover but not anything else on it. And here is what the blade measures (if this is that post that is) between 29 & a 1/2" or 5/8, this is why I got pics and used two rulers because they expand and contract as you prolly know.
P.S. The mark on ruler means nothing, its an old mark for something else.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Nope, with my luck it woulda taken off and I couldnt have gotten it stopped, considering I cant get it to shut off untill it runs the feed out of fuel and I choke it off. There is no deck or anything attached to it yet...Man that would be a cluster lol ! I can see me limping trying to stop that thing while its goin thru the fence lol! Or better yet the ole "wheel barrow style" when the PTO burys itself into the ground then I go uver the bars...OMG!
Gonna try to post a vid from yesterday. I want you guys to hear and see it finally running so bad its driving me crazy.
Nevermind it wont let me do it, or I mean I dont know how and I have tried for hrs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,440 Posts
ok ..Yes "someone" painted the mag
Well, ok, there's one problem. To make the kill tab work, clean the paint off a small spot where the tab contacts the mag body. Also clean the back part of the tab (there should be a little round nub there) where it contacts the mag body. That'll get your kill tab working.

If you have the pushbutton type kill switch in the right handlebar, odds are it's shorted internally, or you clobbered the insulation on the wire someplace, and that's shorting to the inside of the bar. Either way it will likely have to come out.
And here is what the blade measures
Looks like 29-9/16 to me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well, ok, there's one problem. To make the kill tab work, clean the paint off a small spot where the tab contacts the mag body. Also clean the back part of the tab (there should be a little round nub there) where it contacts the mag body. That'll get your kill tab working.

If you have the pushbutton type kill switch in the right handlebar, odds are it's shorted internally, or you clobbered the insulation on the wire someplace, and that's shorting to the inside of the bar. Either way it will likely have to come out.

Looks like 29-9/16 to me.
Thanks for the help first, and the type cut off it has on the mag is that little red hat looking thing and I assume that is for the operator to press the stud against the mag without getting the soup shocked outta him/her. And it came w/h-bar button also and it was so corroded it came out in pieces so I got new one and bought at A.P. store a roll of blue wire, yellow and red and about 6 diff kinds of ends and a can of liquid electrical tape all just for that thing ans havin a hard time beliving I messed it up but w/me anything is possible as you certainly know by now.
So is that a long measurement on the blade or one that should suffice?.
Ya know the guy I got the sulky from last fall lives up the street and he said he has a deck to and I said I'd come get it in the spring, might give that a shot this weekend. Gotta work tomorrow for the first time since March 23 rd. so saturday I'll push my dolly up there and take $50 and see what he has got.
And I will have to pull that h-bar E-stop out and put it in all new again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,440 Posts
I assume that is for the operator to press the stud against the mag without getting the soup shocked outta him/her.
You're on the low voltage side. Maybe 20 volts max, probably less. You could feel a zing if you wet your finger and touched the kill tab while you grounded some other part of your body. Think 9-volt battery on your tongue. The only way you could get a real shock from that tab is if there was something shorted in the coil. In that case, I doubt the machine would even run. Same goes for the remote kill switch, low voltage only.
So is that a long measurement on the blade or one that should suffice?.
You're fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
You're on the low voltage side. Maybe 20 volts max, probably less. You could feel a zing if you wet your finger and touched the kill tab while you grounded some other part of your body. Think 9-volt battery on your tongue. The only way you could get a real shock from that tab is if there was something shorted in the coil. In that case, I doubt the machine would even run. Same goes for the remote kill switch, low voltage only.

You're fine.
Yea the 9 volt battery on the toung aint much, as a matter of fact I have a smoke alarm "pinging" every 30 seconds right now needing replaced.
Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,116 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yea the 9 volt battery on the toung aint much, as a matter of fact I have a smoke alarm "pinging" every 30 seconds right now needing replaced.
Thanks
I do wanna check out that deck that guy has tho, it might be nice but Im gonna let him do the dealing this time cause I gave him a new .380 Derringer and a box of shells for the sulky. Prolly $250 worth of stuff money wise.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top