Looks good, the diesel looks like it was born there! Coming along very well, have to subscribe to this thread.
My 68 112 Build
18
DISCLAIMER: :sorry1:
The following thread may/will offend JD purists and restorers. Reader discretion is advised. This is a refresh/refurbish/repower job. This unit will be seeing plenty of work once it is running again. It will be getting some fresh paint on the exterior, but not a frame-off squeaky-clean restoration.
Now onto the story....
I've been looking for a tractor to fix up and use at my friends acreage, since I help out with yard chores as appreciation for the use of his shop for working on my trucks. He has a Yardworks tractor, but I wanted something of my own that I could build and alter to what I'd want. I stumbled across a 68 112H for $250 locally. The seller bought it from a farmer at some point, but never got around to doing anything with it, and just wanted it out of his yard. He said it didn't run as far as he knew. I loaded it into my truck and brought it home.
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The engine is pretty much roached I think, I didn't attempt to start it, but it spins over very easy by hand. I may disassemble it later for fun. I began tearing down the tractor for repairs and the repower. The deck is dirty with surface rust, but still solid.
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I am using the 10 HP yanmar clone engine. From what I have seen, the hood needs to be raised ~2" to fit this engine. I decided that I'd raise the hood, dash pedestal, and fender pan all by 2" to have a cleaner finished appearance. To raise everything up, all the brackets and linkages associated with the clutch/variator/rockshaft/PTO required modifications to fit in their new homes.
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As part of the repairs, I found the steering was in terrible condition. You could freely turn the steering wheel 90* with no wheel movement. I cleaned and resealed the steering box, and made new tie-rods to replace the old non-adjustable ones. Unfortunately, both rod ends are RH thread, so length adjustments require removing an end from either the steering arm or spindle. I won't complain, since each tie rod only cost me ~$20.
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I also removed the axle and replaced the kingpin bushing. The old bushing allowed the axle to rock front-to-rear on the bolt.
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I picked up the new engine yesterday
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Beginning of tractor mock-up. Air cleaner, exhaust, fuel tank, and recoil starter removed from new engine. Engine is set in position and lined up with corresponding pulleys. Original JD fuel tank will be re-used once it is cleaned and lined.
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I will re-use the HH100 flywheel screen.
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I still have a fair amount of work ahead:
Hydraulic lift, setup new pump/reservoir/control valve.
Charging system, new engine only has ~3A charging system, so either possibly re-use the HH100 stator if it will fit, or add an alternator.
Intake/exhaust, pipe and fabricate as required to make it fit.
The following thread may/will offend JD purists and restorers. Reader discretion is advised. This is a refresh/refurbish/repower job. This unit will be seeing plenty of work once it is running again. It will be getting some fresh paint on the exterior, but not a frame-off squeaky-clean restoration.
Now onto the story....
I've been looking for a tractor to fix up and use at my friends acreage, since I help out with yard chores as appreciation for the use of his shop for working on my trucks. He has a Yardworks tractor, but I wanted something of my own that I could build and alter to what I'd want. I stumbled across a 68 112H for $250 locally. The seller bought it from a farmer at some point, but never got around to doing anything with it, and just wanted it out of his yard. He said it didn't run as far as he knew. I loaded it into my truck and brought it home.
The engine is pretty much roached I think, I didn't attempt to start it, but it spins over very easy by hand. I may disassemble it later for fun. I began tearing down the tractor for repairs and the repower. The deck is dirty with surface rust, but still solid.
I am using the 10 HP yanmar clone engine. From what I have seen, the hood needs to be raised ~2" to fit this engine. I decided that I'd raise the hood, dash pedestal, and fender pan all by 2" to have a cleaner finished appearance. To raise everything up, all the brackets and linkages associated with the clutch/variator/rockshaft/PTO required modifications to fit in their new homes.
As part of the repairs, I found the steering was in terrible condition. You could freely turn the steering wheel 90* with no wheel movement. I cleaned and resealed the steering box, and made new tie-rods to replace the old non-adjustable ones. Unfortunately, both rod ends are RH thread, so length adjustments require removing an end from either the steering arm or spindle. I won't complain, since each tie rod only cost me ~$20.
I also removed the axle and replaced the kingpin bushing. The old bushing allowed the axle to rock front-to-rear on the bolt.
I picked up the new engine yesterday
Beginning of tractor mock-up. Air cleaner, exhaust, fuel tank, and recoil starter removed from new engine. Engine is set in position and lined up with corresponding pulleys. Original JD fuel tank will be re-used once it is cleaned and lined.
I will re-use the HH100 flywheel screen.
I still have a fair amount of work ahead:
Hydraulic lift, setup new pump/reservoir/control valve.
Charging system, new engine only has ~3A charging system, so either possibly re-use the HH100 stator if it will fit, or add an alternator.
Intake/exhaust, pipe and fabricate as required to make it fit.
1 - 20 of 253 Posts
7
Today's progress
Compared the HH100's stator to the diesel's. As one would expect, they are worlds apart and would require extensive butchering to interchange. It looks like an external alternator is in the future. I left the stator out and gutted the magnets from the flywheel.
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Flywheel back on, I had to do something about the red
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A moment of zen, I feel more relaxed now, or is that just the paint fumes??
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Here's a close-up of the area that needed trimming to fit the new engine
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Relocated PTO engagement arm. New engine mounting holes have been drilled.
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I finished assembling the steering column and mounted it, adjusted the tie rods for the correct toe, and hooked up the drag link. The steering is race-car responsive now with no "slop" as it had before. Drag link clears everything underframe through full lock-to-lock.
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Laid some poly sheeting on the floor, removed the rear wheels, and covered the front ones. Gave the frame a good cleaning and laid some paint.
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I'll have to buy some bolts this week, then I'll be ready to set the engine down for the final time.
Compared the HH100's stator to the diesel's. As one would expect, they are worlds apart and would require extensive butchering to interchange. It looks like an external alternator is in the future. I left the stator out and gutted the magnets from the flywheel.
Flywheel back on, I had to do something about the red
A moment of zen, I feel more relaxed now, or is that just the paint fumes??
Here's a close-up of the area that needed trimming to fit the new engine
Relocated PTO engagement arm. New engine mounting holes have been drilled.
I finished assembling the steering column and mounted it, adjusted the tie rods for the correct toe, and hooked up the drag link. The steering is race-car responsive now with no "slop" as it had before. Drag link clears everything underframe through full lock-to-lock.
Laid some poly sheeting on the floor, removed the rear wheels, and covered the front ones. Gave the frame a good cleaning and laid some paint.
I'll have to buy some bolts this week, then I'll be ready to set the engine down for the final time.
OMG, you got ALL that done tonight?!? WOW! Just.... WOW!
(Say, you wouldn't want to come out to Saskatchewan for, like, a day trip to finish up a 67 112H, would you? Oh wait, I'm SUPPOSED to be taking my time on THAT one.... I guess I could always give you Team_Green's address!
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(Say, you wouldn't want to come out to Saskatchewan for, like, a day trip to finish up a 67 112H, would you? Oh wait, I'm SUPPOSED to be taking my time on THAT one.... I guess I could always give you Team_Green's address!
)
5
Yesterday I went to the DIY auto wrecker and picked up a couple alternators from Toyotas, They were the smallest I could seem to find. Now I just need to get a hydraulic pump and I can plan out fitting things underhood.
Today's Progress:
rear wheels re-installed (will re-paint later)
engine tin re-installed
engine bolted to frame
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Did some material cutting for the new hydraulic lever
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Cut the fender deck rear support to length. I'll be using the "new" style fender isolators on the rear of the fender pan, they only need a 5/16" hole to mount. The original style bushings that this frame used (mount in a 1-1/4" hole) are in the $70 range each.
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Did a test fit of the fenders
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Everything seems to be coming together and lining up correctly.
Today's Progress:
rear wheels re-installed (will re-paint later)
engine tin re-installed
engine bolted to frame
Did some material cutting for the new hydraulic lever
Cut the fender deck rear support to length. I'll be using the "new" style fender isolators on the rear of the fender pan, they only need a 5/16" hole to mount. The original style bushings that this frame used (mount in a 1-1/4" hole) are in the $70 range each.
Did a test fit of the fenders
Everything seems to be coming together and lining up correctly.
1 - 20 of 253 Posts
