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Discussion Starter #1
Rattle can or HVLP, Rattle can or HVLP. For those of you who saw/replied to my earlier posts you know I was seeking info on painting my '74 446. I was originally going to "just rattle can it" to clean up some rust spots. I really think HVLP is the way to go BUT, it is just not in the budget right now. "What?", you say, "Head on down to HF and pick up one of those cheapy guns."

Not my style. I actually did that, but returned without using it. I found a gun that looks like it should work well with my compressor (Eastwood Concours) but my compressor is on the small side ( 21 gal, 4 hp, 8.8 cfm @ 40) . It should work, but it will be running pretty much constantly to keep up with the gun. I figure this will contribute to more water/oil in the air. Once I get the gun, good air/oil filter,good regulator,mixing goodies, etc. I am looking at about $500.00.

Right now, that just is not in the cards.

So, behold the photos of my 446 paint booth. I am using CASE Iron Guard spray cans. It is turning out better than I expected.

All of your advice on prep is right on the money. Bare metal, sand primer, sand primer again, spray a test strip on paper then spray the parts, use it as a gauge to see when the next coat should go on, don't get in a hurry, make sure the spray is wet enough to flatten out but not run, let it dry fully before moving forward.

One day it WILL get painted with a HVLP (along with my '75 646).....
 

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Hmmm, doesn't look like B17650N Desert Sunset color to me for some reason. Must be the colors your camera picked up because I'm certain you're not painting it any other color.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats what I like about this forum. Details.

Correct, poor coverage on the edge. The way the part was hanging, I had to hold the can at an upward angle. Guess what, it wanted to splatter, so I made the decision to respray the edge later and not risk splattering the piece.
The cons for using rattle cans do show themselves rather quickly. I am going to respray when I paint the hood.

You would think a modern point and shoot digital camera with about 50 pre set settings could take a photo with true to life colors. I may have to use the DSLR for later posts.

The rattle can DS looks very similar to the stock color on the hood when the old paint was polished out really well.

 

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In this photo the color looks correct. I agree about digital cameras my wife's digital point and shoot sucks for white balance, on the other hand my Canon DSLR works great.


BTW I went with the $49.00 harbor freight HVLP set and am happy with it. While the quality is not as great as my old paint guns (Devilbiss) the lack of wasted paint is the cat's meow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
mkeith54,

That is good to know about the HF gun. Which one are you using? I have two portable construction compressors- for running my air staplers at work (masonry contractor) - not suitable for painting and my shop compressor is the HF 4.1hp peak, 21 gal. 11.1 scfm/8.8 delivered at 40psi. After reading about air sprayers/ compressors I was worried about contaminated air and figured it would take a pretty darn good ($$$)filter to keep the air clean. Also my compressor is portable and I read so much about having to cool the air before it is filtered.

What is your set up? ( compressor, gun, mixing goodies, filters, etc.) Maybe I should return my spray cans for quarts and do it right.
 

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That's looking real good. As with anything you want to do well, it's all in the preparation, the environment in which it's done, along with your own skill level. Just because some have not had good luck using a can to get a good finish, does not mean it is not possible (in the right hands).

BTW, your just receiving some good-natured ribbing. I've had a chance to look closely at the original finish on my 446 and I see alot of factory orange peel, thin paint on sharp edges, missed spots etc. While good, no concours paint jobs came from the factory on these tractors.

I too, am using Iron Gard Power Red spray to do the frame rails, nooks and crannies, etc, prior to putting my engine back in it's place. It's just easier to do and I feel pretty comfortable with a spray can to get a good result there. The finish quality from them is quite is good, altho not crazy about the nozzle

However, I'll likely break out the small door jamb gun I have, to do the hood, fenders, larger pieces of sheet metal, etc. It has an in-line water separator installed at the handle, run off a 30 gal air compressor. Believe it or not, I've used disposable baby bottle bags (with the gradient scale on the side), placed in the plastic bottle part to do my mixing. Just sit it on the workbench and pour in the right mix of paint and thinner (using the scale) thru a conical paint filter sitting on top of the bottle. Stir then pour into the cup of the sprayer. That seems to produce about the right volume of mixed paint for the smaller gun I use and it's relatively quick.
 

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This is the set the I got: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

and this is fairly close to my compressor: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/oil-compressors/4-hp-29-gallon-120-psi-compressor-65903.html

The biggest difference is mine is a 5 hp and 60 gallon sized tank.
I used this setup to paint a trailer and had no problems. One thing that did was to buy the disposable paint cups, makes cleanup a lot easier.

ETA: I use a plastic drink cups (from fast food places) to mix in. To measure I use an old set of measure cups to determine how much to pour into the cup (using water) and then mark the cup. I also use a mixer on the electric drill to mix the paint well and add hardener right before pouring into the cup. Also I use a nose and mouth filter (replaceable filters) with organic filters. Don't remember where I got that but I think it was Conney Safety.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wouldn't you know it, that spray gun set is the one I bought, then returned to HF. I kind of freaked myself out reading about cfm/clean air/mixing/etc.

I think I am going to go buy it again and give it a try. I was definately going to use an air dryer/filter right at the gun. I should probably have one at the tank anyway, but 'maybe' I don't need one that is $180.00+

I was really surprised at how good the Ironguard spray cans cover. One can in particular was splattering a bit. It felt like the propellent was at a lower pressure, but once I used about 1/8th of the can it worked much better. I also prepped, then sprayed my wheel weights with Power Red and it covered really well even on the super rough castings.

I am hoping my small-ish compressor will work fine with the HF set. The hood is the largest piece to paint and with smooth bursts of air from the spray gun, I think I will be fine with my cfm output.
 

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I've mentioned to you in the past that your compressor will handle a hvlp with no problem. Just think for a moment you have an air tank which is where your getting your air from. Your painting small items not a tractor trailer. It's being painted to protect it, whats your worry. Your not opening a body shop, you do not need to go to a large expense to paint a tractor. A jamb [touch up] hvlp will paint your tractor far better than your rattle cans and you can control your paint [fan and pressure].
 

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For what you intend to do, that setup & compressor will work fine. Install an inexpensive water separator at the tank/regulator, drain the water out of the tank regularly, and use fish-eye killer ( a few drops ).

:trink39:
 
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