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Discussion Starter #21
Ken, any news on this rebuild? Just read the thread and have interest in how this turns out. I am currently working on a "deal" for a 580 CK myself and was looking into these forum threads to get a peek as to what I might be getting into with the CK. I apologise that I don't have any advice for you as I have never owned a diesel whether car, truck or tractor in my life so no help there. I am following this thread however, as I like a good "eureka" story and I'm hoping you find the issue to be one of the crazy simple things since it doesn't look like any of the major issues. You seemed to pretty much cover everything. Good luck. Keep us posted please.
After getting help from someone contacted on another forum we finally got it running again. After double checking we on the right TDC cycle, and finding our fuel pump timing was close we kept cranking with fuel lines at injectors cracked open for much longer than we had done before - apparently this time was the charm - it started - YEAH!!!. And it restarted the next couple days. In hindsight, perhaps we didn't have to replace the cylinders but who knows now. Before putting backhoe back on and fixing couple remaining hydraulic cylinders we decided to see if can fix differential brakes that prior owner never remembers working. Still struggling to get Carrier Assy plate off so can replace the seals that clearly failing. Have brake parts cleaned and ordering replacement parts.

This project clearly the worst "free" project ever tackled. Ready to call it quits after about $5,000 of parts but my son kept thinking one more thing will get us there - now passing $9,000 but "think" we are very close to having a working backhoe (that might be worth $5000?). Hindsight: should have put same $ down on newer machine/mini-excavator. Despite $, big plus was having our son come home frequently to spend day working the problem - greater bonding/appreciation. Thanks also to this forum and another one.
Ken
 

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Hopefully, you drained the diffy case before trying to remove that carrier plate assy. I'm assuming the bolt holes go all the way to the inside, like older models. On my old 310B, the flat/tapered head screws had a very large slot in the screw. Someone had been in there before, andhad the slots about half ratted out. Although only torqued to like 15in. lbs., I went to Fastenal, and got new inset hex drive screws, to make removal,and installation a lot easier for someone down the road.

AND, only do one side at a time, per the manual..!! Doing both at once can let the bull pinion shafts drop.

Once the seal is installed, and you go to slide it back in, the OEM manual states to wrap a piece of thin shim stock around the shaft to keep from cutting, or inverting the lip on the seal. Not having anything like that in the shop, or no real idea where to get a thin plastic sheet of something, to do that job, I posed that question I believe here on this forum. A retired Massey mechanic sent mean idea they used back in the day that was very inexpensive, and kicked myself for not thinking of it myself.

Simply clean the shaft of all oil, then starting at the inside,justoutside of where theseal rides,wrap with electrical tape,and wrap outwards,leaving a 1" or so tail out beyond the end of the shaft. Coat the tape with oil, then slide it on. Wrapping from the inside out, there are no sharp edges for the seal lip to catch on. When it's in, grab the tape by the tail,and pull it off, in a wide circular spiral motion. I've used this method installing numerous sealsinsimilar situations over the past 10 years with 100% success.

I just installed newpto/belt puller seals on my Farmal130, and made a video of pulling the tape off, to showhow easy it's done. Big difference is, the pto shaft will spin to pull it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hopefully, you drained the diffy case before trying to remove that carrier plate assy. I'm assuming the bolt holes go all the way to the inside, like older models. On my old 310B, the flat/tapered head screws had a very large slot in the screw. Someone had been in there before, andhad the slots about half ratted out. Although only torqued to like 15in. lbs., I went to Fastenal, and got new inset hex drive screws, to make removal,and installation a lot easier for someone down the road.

AND, only do one side at a time, per the manual..!! Doing both at once can let the bull pinion shafts drop.

Once the seal is installed, and you go to slide it back in, the OEM manual states to wrap a piece of thin shim stock around the shaft to keep from cutting, or inverting the lip on the seal. Not having anything like that in the shop, or no real idea where to get a thin plastic sheet of something, to do that job, I posed that question I believe here on this forum. A retired Massey mechanic sent mean idea they used back in the day that was very inexpensive, and kicked myself for not thinking of it myself.

Simply clean the shaft of all oil, then starting at the inside,justoutside of where theseal rides,wrap with electrical tape,and wrap outwards,leaving a 1" or so tail out beyond the end of the shaft. Coat the tape with oil, then slide it on. Wrapping from the inside out, there are no sharp edges for the seal lip to catch on. When it's in, grab the tape by the tail,and pull it off, in a wide circular spiral motion. I've used this method installing numerous sealsinsimilar situations over the past 10 years with 100% success.

I just installed newpto/belt puller seals on my Farmal130, and made a video of pulling the tape off, to showhow easy it's done. Big difference is, the pto shaft will spin to pull it off.
Thanks for the extra tips - very timely!
 

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That's why older, relevant tips getting passed on down the line keep good ideas in use current times. Great tip DJ.
MikeC
 
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