[GB in MN]

Hi All, last fall I got the MW on an auction it needed some work to get it going so after repainting the Sears Suburban 12, I've got started on the Wards.
Had to remove the engine and the transaxle previously someone one worked on the engine and started to cut the blower housing, the ignition coil was dead and the alternator rectifier was also dead. Got blower housing off and found the wire from the coil to the points was broken and whoever installed the coil connect the coil ground wire to the points / switch wire got those things righted, repaired the housing cut, and added additional wire to the alternator wire to remote mount a rectifier.
The vari-drive system was stuck so had to remove the transaxle to get at the vari-drive, got it off but the pulley halves would not come apart figured out that the set screws that are suppose to hold the assy on the shaft had backed out over time and worn into the out half locking the two. Had no choice but to try and press them apart and I lucked out they did part and with min. clean up all is good again. The tractor is now going back together.

 

[GB in MN]

Worked on the MW today its going back together slowly the engine is in the frame and the drive shaft reconnected, tomorrow its to reinstall the front axle first off. I've been an aircraft mechanic all of my life worked mostly on helicopters and have had some hard things to work on but I thing this garden tractor(Gilson) takes the cake it is a very hard beast to work on nothing is easy.

 

[cjet69]

Lookin' good GB. :fing32: Maybe this will inspire me to work on our MW 14.

 

[GB in MN]

Thanks cjet69, I did modify the engine some, ground off the lip on the forward part of the engine sump so it dropped right in, made it so much easier.

 

[Jack D D]

Coming along, GB. Nice work. Looks like I'll be removing the hydrostatic in mine next Winter......if it lasts that long. Leaks fluid at the lower pintle.

 

[GB in MN]

Made more progress on the MN 16 today its coming together had a couple of wiring issues and they are cleared up, worked on the carb hoping I've got a handle on it tomorrow will tell. I have a couple of mystery parts I need help with, when a guy takes something apart you think its self explanatory but after a couple of months the memory is gone, so if anyone knows what and where they go I'd appreciate the help. One is the black baffle like part witch I think it is and looks like it goes on the engine per the paint the other hook item was laying in front of the engine when I took the hood off.

 

[Jack D D]

Mine has that wire with the loop. It was just hanging down underneath and loose. Couldn't figure out where it came from or what it is supposed to do. Now it's in a bag under the seat. Apparently it is not an important part (at least on mine).

 

[GB in MN]

Thanks Jack that's most likely where mine will go. I did figure out where the baffle/shield goes it attaches to the RH side under the battery next to the engine keeps you from sticking your hand into the driveshaft / engine cooling screen.

 

[Jack D D]

I see yours has a mower deck. Perhaps something to do with that implement???

 

[GB in MN]

That was / is my thinking just not sure were or how it attaches to anything.

 

[Jack D D]

Looking at my parts list, I see it is a idler lockout. It locks the idler pulley (the spring loaded one under the tractor) when the belt is off (I think). Not sure how it works. The exploded view is not clear. Do you have the parts manual? I can email it if you need it. Covers up to 1974.

 

[GB in MN]

Hey Jack that would be great I don't have a parts manual, I've looked all over online for manuals but no luck. You know that's the very area it was located I'll look tomorrow maybe a light will come on.
I would really appreciate a manual, thanks

 

[GB in MN]

Well the MW is giving me fits, can't get the card to work right and then while working that the mag starts being intermittent, so I converted it to battery ignition (no way I'm pulling the engine again to get at the coil) that's working good, then don't you know the starter stopped working. At first I thought it was a poor connection on the clutch ground switch not that so I removed the started solenoid and was going to get a new one but decided to test it and its good so a wire must have come off the start switch. Have been researching the carb I'm thinking that the idle circuit is clogged somewhere am going to try cleaning one more time and see what happens.
On a happier note I did drive the tractor and the vari-drive works perfect (that is a nice feature once I get the carb straightened out it will be good.

 

[attorney_barnabas_collins]

Looks like you have a Squire with the bigger fenders. I have a squire 16 and tiller i need to get to someday. I'll have to keep an eye on this thread. My carb was surging bad, that's why I parked it.

 

[GB in MN]

Well made some headway today, discovered that the starter solenoid was good and the 12 V wire from the switch was good but no power I finally discovered that the fuse on the side of the frame had blown so no current flow to the switch etc. I have not checked this out yet but there was a 3 Amp fuse installed and I can't believe that is right to handle the current of all the circuits as that's the only fuse for now there's a 10 amp in it. Still having a leaking problem with the carb at idle but otherwise the engine runs good and the tractor drives good. I was very surprised to find the the key switch had a terminal available to connect the battery coil to no need to install a seperate ignition switch that really made me happy.

 

[GB in MN]

Ok it turns out that the proper fuse is a 15 amp the one that was in the tractor was 3 amp surprised it lasted as long as it did.

 

[Jack D D]

Ok it turns out that the proper fuse is a 15 amp the one that was in the tractor was 3 amp surprised it lasted as long as it did.

I had to put a toggle switch in series with that fuse. For reasons unknown to me, there is a current draw through that line of 1.5 A that kills my battery in a few days of non-use. Measuring the resistance at the disconnected battery cables I get 18 ohms. Tracing the circuit, it goes to the voltage regulator first then on to the ignition switch. The voltage regulator is working as it is supposed to......Don't have a clue as to why there is a current draw. The toggle switch has solved the problem.....at least for now.

 

[GB in MN]

Thanks for the infor Jack, does your tractor have a starter / generator? Mine has a flywheel starter and a half wave / diode rectifier and the diode was blown, replaced it with a 6 amp 50V one from Radio Shack P/N 276-1661, $2.69 for a pak of 4 hardest part was splicing the wire coming out of the engine.
I'll check the circuit to see if there's any draw on the system.

 

[Jack D D]

Mine has the starter/generator combo. I have, on hand, a new alternator for a Dodge and an unused PTO. I've been toying with the idea of mounting that alternator and using the PTO to drive it. Not sure if I'll do it, but it is an intriguing idea. Much higher output for that new winch setup I put on to lift the bucket.

 

[GB in MN]

I think that would work good like you say with the winch there would a greater need for more current supply and the PTO would be a good place run it from. Should make an interesting project keep us updated.