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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there,
I have a Murray 6-36506, and it is believed that it's from 1986 with a 11HP Briggs. It seems to be in overall good condition... but it hasn't been started in about 9-10 years. I want to get it started again, but I am unsure what I should do to it (maintenance wise). I am changing the battery on it, putting new gas in it (it was drained when we stopped using it 9-10 years ago), putting in new oil, and possibly get new blades. Is there anything else to do, or can someone provide me with instructions on what to do? It worked great last time it was used.

Thanks,
Curt.
 

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When starting an engine that sat for that long you need to be careful. Pull the spark plug first, and squirt some oil into the cylinder, and in your case I'd do this a few times, and let it sit each time. After that, leave the plug out, change the engine oil obviously, and try to turn the engine by hand. If by some miracle it turns by hand, turn it a dozen or so times, then you can even crank it over with the key a few times as well, and put the plug back in and fire it up. It will smoke at first, that will be normal.

If it does not turn easily, let it soak some more. But there's a chance the motor will be sized from rust and corrosion inside, whether it was garaged or not, moisture gets inside every motor.

I would also dis-assemble, clean, and re-assemble the carb before trying to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When starting an engine that sat for that long you need to be careful. Pull the spark plug first, and squirt some oil into the cylinder, and in your case I'd do this a few times, and let it sit each time. After that, leave the plug out, change the engine oil obviously, and try to turn the engine by hand. If by some miracle it turns by hand, turn it a dozen or so times, then you can even crank it over with the key a few times as well, and put the plug back in and fire it up. It will smoke at first, that will be normal.

If it does not turn easily, let it soak some more. But there's a chance the motor will be sized from rust and corrosion inside, whether it was garaged or not, moisture gets inside every motor.

I would also dis-assemble, clean, and re-assemble the carb before trying to start it.
I am not that good with stuff like this, as it is my first time ever trying to fix one. So how exactly would I squirt oil into the cylinder?
 

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I am not that good with stuff like this, as it is my first time ever trying to fix one. So how exactly would I squirt oil into the cylinder?

I use a mix of trans fluid and oil ..Or you can use some diesel ...I like the oil and trans fluid better it dont smell as much
 

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Well I mean, how do I do the process?


get a an oiling can take the plug out and squirt some in the cylinders ..Let it sit for a few days then try to roll it by hand ....If its tight squirt some more in roll it by hand some more keep doing this till it rolls nice and free ..
 

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Well I mean, how do I do the process?
Many use a turkey baster to get oil through the plug hole. Not expensive, most dollar stores have them. Post some pics if you get a chance, love to see them old Murrays.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Many use a turkey baster to get oil through the plug hole. Not expensive, most dollar stores have them. Post some pics if you get a chance, love to see them old Murrays.
Here's some pictures. Looks like there's no muffler on it...
http://www.2shared.com/file/fTYMGKki/Murray.html
I uploaded it there because I was lacking uploading space on the forums. Be sure to download it using the "Save file to your PC: click here" thing.

And aside from that, the picture attached... is the little plug going into the engine the spark plug? So I need to take that out and put some oil in it? And what engine oil do I use for this in general... I lost the manual, and there is no manual online so I am clueless on the oil type :banghead3
 

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Yes, squirt a little in the plug hole. SAE 30 is the oil you want, assuming you will be operating in the spring, summer and fall months only.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, squirt a little in the plug hole. SAE 30 is the oil you want, assuming you will be operating in the spring, summer and fall months only.
Ok, and to drain the oil out of it I uncap the little pipe on the side of it... if I remember properly. And I don't see a dipstick on it. Oh how out of it I am with this thing :p
 

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Ok, and to drain the oil out of it I uncap the little pipe on the side of it... if I remember properly. And I don't see a dipstick on it. Oh how out of it I am with this thing :p
Yep the plugged pipe is the oil drain. There may not be a dipstick per-say, a lot of Briggs just require the oil to be in the threads of the sump fill (little plastic plug with two little wingnut things on top). It will be located on the side of the motor.

Owners manuals for the engine are available from Briggs online. Find the model, type, and code numbers (Usually stamped into the cooling cowl by the spark plug or by the flywheel opening) and go the the Briggs website and enter the data and it will spit you out a PDF of the engine manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Briggs has nothing on my engine. It's the following...
Model: 52707
Type: 0620-01
Code: 86060111

The good news is that I can turn the engine manually a little bit without oiling it up. I'll attempt to drain the oil tonight, and put new oil in. But dang, the cap on the oil drain does not want to come off! And I will also check out the carb and see if the floats on it is still good. Don't see why not since we ran the gas out of it before we moved it 10 years ago. I will attempt to re-oil it with Shell Formula 10W-30. I guess i'll clean the air cleaner next to the engine.

Speaking of the air cleaner, may anyone tell me why I must saturate the foam in engine oil then squeeze it to get rid of excess oil?
 

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Briggs has nothing on my engine. It's the following...
Model: 52707
Type: 0620-01
Code: 86060111

The good news is that I can turn the engine manually a little bit without oiling it up. I'll attempt to drain the oil tonight, and put new oil in. But dang, the cap on the oil drain does not want to come off! And I will also check out the carb and see if the floats on it is still good. Don't see why not since we ran the gas out of it before we moved it 10 years ago. I will attempt to re-oil it with Shell Formula 10W-30. I guess i'll clean the air cleaner next to the engine.

Speaking of the air cleaner, may anyone tell me why I must saturate the foam in engine oil then squeeze it to get rid of excess oil?
Do not use 10w-30 use SAE 30
 

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Briggs has nothing on my engine. It's the following...
Model: 52707
Type: 0620-01
Code: 86060111

The good news is that I can turn the engine manually a little bit without oiling it up. I'll attempt to drain the oil tonight, and put new oil in. But dang, the cap on the oil drain does not want to come off! And I will also check out the carb and see if the floats on it is still good. Don't see why not since we ran the gas out of it before we moved it 10 years ago. I will attempt to re-oil it with Shell Formula 10W-30. I guess i'll clean the air cleaner next to the engine.

Speaking of the air cleaner, may anyone tell me why I must saturate the foam in engine oil then squeeze it to get rid of excess oil?

The idea was to lube the cylinder walls, and rings BEFORE attempting to turn it, even by hand, you can crack a stuck oil ring just by turning it by hand, or run the rings across a corroded surface with no lube :fing20:
 

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Briggs has nothing on my engine. It's the following...
Model: 52707
Type: 0620-01
Code: 86060111

The good news is that I can turn the engine manually a little bit without oiling it up. I'll attempt to drain the oil tonight, and put new oil in. But dang, the cap on the oil drain does not want to come off! And I will also check out the carb and see if the floats on it is still good. Don't see why not since we ran the gas out of it before we moved it 10 years ago. I will attempt to re-oil it with Shell Formula 10W-30. I guess i'll clean the air cleaner next to the engine.

Speaking of the air cleaner, may anyone tell me why I must saturate the foam in engine oil then squeeze it to get rid of excess oil?


I wouldn't saturate the foam filter element in oil and wring it out. This could cause excess oil to be sucked into the carb. I usually will dribble a little fresh oil on my fingers and rub it across the outside surface of the foam element (after cleaning and drying it first). This makes for a very light coat (that's really all you need), and it's always worked best for me.
 

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Briggs has nothing on my engine. It's the following...
Model: 52707
Type: 0620-01
Code: 86060111
Double check the model #. I think you might have missed a digit in there. As far as oil, Briggs shows 8-11 hp of that style taking 36oz. of oil, 12-14 hp 48oz. oil. As always, add the recommended amount, then DOUBLE check it on the dip stick or at the fill plug for proper level. I would not only clean the carb, but put a kit in it also, as the gaskets and needle tip/seat would of dried out and probably will be to brittle to reuse. As long as it sat, i would also change the oil again after running for about 30 minutes at operating temperature to ensure getting as much sludge, crud, condensation and other hidden goodies out of the crank case. :Welcome1: and :wwp:
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Double check the model #. I think you might have missed a digit in there. As far as oil, Briggs shows 8-11 hp of that style taking 36oz. of oil, 12-14 hp 48oz. oil. As always, add the recommended amount, then DOUBLE check it on the dip stick or at the fill plug for proper level. I would not only clean the carb, but put a kit in it also, as the gaskets and needle tip/seat would of dried out and probably will be to brittle to reuse. As long as it sat, i would also change the oil again after running for about 30 minutes at operating temperature to ensure getting as much sludge, crud, condensation and other hidden goodies out of the crank case. :Welcome1: and :wwp:
Pictures are already up :thThumbsU Thank you for the welcome :) And I am going to try the carb as it is. It seems to be fine to me. I'll be pulling the carb out and check the floats and see if it's good. If it isn't, i'll clean it and possibly put a kit on it. I'll need to see how it goes with that.

Other news... good and bad.
Good:
Got a new battery
Flushed the oil
Put new oil in
Cleaned the engine up a little

Bad:
Electrical system wont work... at all. Replacing the fuse, hope it works.
Gas line is broken. I put a little bit of gas in it, and it all fell out onto the motor... buying a new hose for that tomorrow. (And I cleaned the gas off of it... so we're all good there :) )
The pipe that the oil comes out of is too tight... so I had to take the whole pipe off and drain it that way. The point with that is that the oil is in there fine now... :drunkie:

If anyone has any info on the electrical though... like what may cause it to not work, please tell me you're thoughts... it will definitely help :)
 

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you missed a 2

go to B&S.com
click on manuals and parts lists
Enter

Engine Model # 252707-0620-01
Engine Model # 252707-0620-01 Operator's Manual English
Engine Model # 252707-0620-01 Illustrated Parts List English
 

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Discussion Starter #19
you missed a 2

go to B&S.com
click on manuals and parts lists
Enter

Engine Model # 252707-0620-01
Engine Model # 252707-0620-01 Operator's Manual English
Engine Model # 252707-0620-01 Illustrated Parts List English
Ah I missed the 2. :thanku:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
After being idle on here for a little while, I am back. As my goal is to get this mower running before November, I seem to only have one last problem. There is absolutely no power flowing. Positive is connected to the positive terminal, negative is to negative, and the battery is brand new, however, the engine wont even attempt to turn over, and the lights wont turn on when I flip the light switch to on. Does anybody have any ideas? All I did so far was that I cleaned the terminal connection (It was corroded after not being used since about 2002). I am beginning to loose faith in getting it working, however I still hope there is a way.

Cheers,
Curt
 
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