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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I attempted several searches to see if I could find an answer but obviously didn’t come up with the correct parameters for my question. I know I’ve seen similar situations posed but don’t remember any solutions. I think one problem on most forums is that lots of folks don’t come back to their thread and tell what they finally did about their problem so the rest of us bumblers are left hanging. Anyway…

I ordered new Moog 338 “X”s for my hydro shaft U-joints. The bearing cups fit great but the overall length of the X is at least 3/32” too long. There’s no way to get the retaining “C” clips into their grooves. I was able to easily get a hardware store “C” clip into one side but I’ve squeezed that clip over as much as I dare and still don’t have room for one on the other side. As you can see in the pics, it’s just too long. Frustrating, since this is one of the part numbers listed as a replacement. I’m hoping someone that also had this problem came up with a solution besides not using them. However, if that’s what I do I’ll be sure and say so.

Here’s what I’m going to try. Remove what I’ve inserted and clean up all the little forging burrs that I see that possible are interfering, then try again. If that doesn’t work then I hope I found all the little needles that fell out of the originals. They were not bad - just needed new grease, but I didn’t know that before pulling them to replace the hydro fan. This is a case of preventative maintenance that may have gone bad (if I lost a needle).

Any input is welcome.

ron
edit: turns out I did lose one needle. The next morning I got a strong magnet and finally found it outside the garage door.
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I'd put one of my 2 jaw gear pullers on the side w/o a clip and see how hard it was to push the cup across effectively spreading the yoke slightly. If the pressure wasn't too great I'd do that and put in the clip then see if it swiveled OK when the pressure was off.
 

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Man, all those extra pics and
I always like the "sensitive content" warnings on some pics. Ooo-la-la! Sexy U-joint pics" :D
 
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It looks like the bearing caps are pressed up against hard rubber dust bushings? If they are stiff rubber, or plastic, can you carefully put the "too long" part in a vise, and gently squeeze the bearing cups closer together? Or are they already bottomed out?

If those are rubber dust bushings, and there is still room inside the bearing cups, maybe they could be compressed slightly, enough to allow your bearing cup closer to the center and your C clip to be inserted.

Just a wild guess here, using 30 years ago universal joint experiences... Discard this if not useful.
 

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Sorry for the lousy description of my suggestion....ugh....here is what I meant. Squeeze the caps with a vise or "C" clamp to get the clip clearance..

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The ears may have gotten bent Inwards during the ujoint removal its happend to me before I just used a porta power to spread them out again.
I’ll measure inside dimensions and compare to the un-disassembled one. I don’t have a porta power, whatever that is. How about a pic?
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alien5044- I get what you are saying. Unfortunately, they are completely compressed. I measured the inside dimensions of the cups and the length of the “arm” and they match. And my big vise was putting a lot of compression on the cups so I’m sure things were compressed to the max.
Here’s what I’m thinking (refer to pic) - there looks to be plenty of internal space in the cups before the needles will contact the raised area at the inner end. I’m going to remove the chamfer length on all four arms. If I can machine it off in my lathe then that’s the route I’ll go. Otherwise I’ll grind it off while rotating in the lathe. Then I’ll rechamfer the ends. I think that will provide enough space to use the hardware store C clips. Fingers crossed.
These Moogs were less than $9 at Amazon so I can afford to mess one up trying.
ron
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they shoul d go back take apart again and make shure you did not drop a needle bearing in side have had this problem when putting them together and found out that a needle bearring had droped inside the cup
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Definitely hardened. Using my Dremel because I can control it better. Angle grinder would be faster.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Why not spread the yoke a hair to make the room you need, rather than get involved with machining a u-joint? Just my .02
maybe because I can’t see how to spread it slightly with what I have. Maybe a senior moment and just can’t think of a way…
Thanks
Ron
 

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This sounds really stupid, but did you check the cups for a needle that slipped out of place and ended up against the bottom of the cup when you reassembled them? I have done that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
they shoul d go back take apart again and make shure you did not drop a needle bearing in side have had this problem when putting them together and found out that a needle bearring had droped inside the cup
Nope. Needle bearings are all in place. Putting the original Xs side by side the new one is simply longer.
Wish you were right. But, no. Thanks.
ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This sounds really stupid, but did you check the cups for a needle that slipped out of place and ended up against the bottom of the cup when you reassembled them? I have done that.
Thanks. See above.
Ron
 

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Nice solution on the lathe!! If you can get a live center in there, you could even reproduce a small chamfer on the new edge.

I think I'd be afraid to try to spread the yoke. Concern would be if one arm of the yoke was bent out a few thousandths more that the other...vibration, and slight misalignment with the cross piece. Other concern is if the yoke gets wrecked, or even snapped, - not sure if the yoke is a casting or forged- now you are in for more expense for a new yoke and possibly back in the same place you started.

Good thinking, and a great fix!!
 
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I would consider taking just a little bit of material off the inside of the yokes to get the clips in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would consider taking just a little bit of material off the inside of the yokes to get the clips in.
I looked at doing that but couldn’t see a way with the tools I have. I think it would take a mill to do it properly. But, worth another look to see if I could do it.
a
At the moment I have one yoke fitted nicely but the other still needs work.
ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Nice solution on the lathe!! If you can get a live center in there, you could even reproduce a small chamfer on the new edge.

I think I'd be afraid to try to spread the yoke. Concern would be if one arm of the yoke was bent out a few thousandths more that the other...vibration, and slight misalignment with the cross piece. Other concern is if the yoke gets wrecked, or even snapped, - not sure if the yoke is a casting or forged- now you are in for more expense for a new yoke and possibly back in the same place you started.

Good thinking, and a great fix!!
If it works it’ll be great. One yoke working but other still needs more taken off the X and I’m not sure I can get enough. Spreading yoke would definitely help but I would think it’ll take serious heat and I’m not ready to do that.
I’d just relube the originals and put them in but I found some brinneling I’m unhappy about.
ron
 
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