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Mounting a loader hydraulic pump

8357 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Ariens93GT20
I obtained a front end loader that as far as I can tell is home made but quite well done. No one knows what it was made to fit. It's possible that it was a project never finished as there are no hydraulics and some cylinder mounting tabs missing. I'm going to adapt this to my S14H. I've looked at all of the loaders made to fit the S and GT models (and other brands) and all of them, including many other brands and various models, run the pump off of the front PTO. This is the easiest thing to do but I never do things the easy way because I like to have my cake and eat it too. I want to mount the loader so I can use the mower and tiller without removing the loader every time I want to mow or till. If I used the traditional front PTO driven pump then the mower would be engaged all of the time that the pump was engaged. I considered using the always live rear PTO to run the pump but then there's the same issue but with the tiller instead of the mower. Space for the pump between the tractor and tiller is also an issue. I got a drive shaft adapter from a cub cadet with same engine that has a pulley on it thinking I'd mount the pump under the tractor but there's not much space there unless I found a very small pump. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? I don't want to have two tractors. I want to have one, do all tractor. I believe it's possible. Welding and fabrication are not an issue
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I had a similar problem with my MF1655. The front/mid PTO is for the snow blower and the rear PTO is for the tiller.

My live PTO shaft ran from the flywheel to the back of the tractor with a double v-belt clutched for the rear PTO. I built a new live PTO shaft that extends beyond the seat pan and built this for the pump.







I can put a seat on it for passengers.
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I have a S14H too. I like it but deck needs work so I don't use it.
If I were to mount a pump, I would use the rear pto. It's there spinning anyhow. Then I would make the Tiller hydraulic or buy one that was. Hydraulic tillers work pretty good, you can even reverse them but snowblowers should be connected as directly as possible.
Also, the pump can be small; palm of your hand size. What size are your cylinders.
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watch the front axle weight ! max of 400 lbs extra on the spindles .... and the steering will get heavy too when loaded ...

the deck and rear PTO spins in the wrong direction for a pump ( unless your pump is reversible )
the deck and rear PTO spins in the wrong direction for a pump ( unless your pump is reversible )
How do you know this. Is there another thread on this tractor? Most modern gear pumps can have rotation reversed.
If you are buying new, gear pumps can be ordered with the correct rotation. Both rotations are listed separately.
yup .. shudda said "check direction of rotation of pump BEFORE mounting " because the direction of the deck/ rear PTO is reversed from the front PTO .... my bad .
Thanks for the replies, guys. My pump is rather large (it came with the loader) and I'm guessing its pretty old. I know I can get one that is much smaller which I'll likely have to do. I don't know its condition or output so a new pump is a good idea. I was thinking of getting a 4gpm pump which seems like a fairly standard capacity for smaller hydraulic equipment. I only have bucket cylinders so far (they were on the loader already) as I haven't played with the geometry for the lift cylinders yet I don't know exactly what the length of the cylinders will be and thus I don't know what my exact capacity needs to be. I'm not too worried about having a lot of lift capacity because as joat pointed out I don't want to overload the spindles. This always made me wonder how the GT series handled the seemingly large buckets that Kwik Way put on their loaders for this tractor. Power steering would be nice and almost a necessity with a bucket as large as those filled to capacity. My bucket is 42" wide and I think about 4 cu ft at most.
Tudor, you had a good idea with how you mounted the pump on your MF. but that wouldn't work for me because I'd need to be able to open the rear deck/fenders for hydro service. I did have a similar idea for mounting it low. I'm not sure there'd be enough clearance around the the three point hitch arms, though. It my interfere with the tiller, too. I don't want to go to a hydro tiller because of the cost of them. It's not something I could justify for occasional use. Does anyone know of a specific pump that is physically very small and where to get one if it exists?
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I designed it so that it didn't interfere with the 3PH, and it comes off by pulling 2 pins and sliding it out of the tubes.

It's mounted with 2 receiver type tubes, one bolted to each side of the frame. If you look carefully at the first pic, you can see the vertical mount just behind (towards the tractor front) of the 3PH rockshaft mount and the square tube is over top of the rockshaft. The seat pan comes off in the normal fashion, as does the rear PTO, without disturbing the pump mount rack. The rack does have to come off in order to pull the final drive out of the tractor since the frame has to spring a bit to get the brake bolt out of the hole for it in the frame.

I didn't think it would work for your tractor. I just wanted to throw the idea out to you in case some part of it would help. As with my loader, it uses existing holes for mounting.
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Does anyone know of a specific pump that is physically very small and where to get one if it exists?
look for log splitter pumps ( 2 stage pumps ) high volume low pressure till it meets resistance , then it becomes low volume high pressure ... they work well if you are short on space or in a tight spot ... they also work with smaller engines ...
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look for log splitter pumps ( 2 stage pumps ) high volume low pressure till it meets resistance , then it becomes low volume high pressure ... they work well if you are short on space or in a tight spot ... they also work with smaller engines ...
This is the last type of pump that you want for a loader. It will be virtually uncontrollable with the high flow rate at the low pressure combination. The unloader does not kick in until 900 psi, and most lifting with GT loaders is below 900 psi. It would also require all hoses and hard lines to be larger than the normal 1/4" hose and 3/8" hard lines.

For a loader with 2" bore cylinders, a pump with a displacement of 0.36-0.40 cu-in driven at engine speed.

For a loader with 1.5" cylinders, a pump with 0.25-0.30 cu-in displacement.

Relief setting - 700-1000 psi for 2" cylinders, or up to 1500 psi for 1.5" cylinders.
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Thanks for the replies, guys.... Does anyone know of a specific pump that is physically very small and where to get one if it exists?
I predicted this question, and was why I asked what size cylinders your using. Because the size of pump depends on the size of the cylinders

I don't want to go to a hydro tiller because of the cost of them.
What are you planning on making an FEL and not spend any money? Surplus has motors for $130.00, that would could make your tiller hydraulic. Your already committed to a hydraulic system with tank, relief, valves and filter etc. take advantage of it.


It's not something I could justify for occasional use.
Its the occasional nature of the tiller that makes this a good plan. Don't compromise a good pump placement when you could have it all.
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I would be very interested in any pictures of what ever you decide to do I also have been pondering loader mounting. Can not imagine using the loader tho with the deck still under the tractor as it reduces ground clearance dramatically. Then there is the issue of the deck getting caught on everything. My deck is 60". My GT rear PTO is also clutched the only thing that runs continual is the hydro drive shaft. I have not been able to find a flow threw shaft driven hydraulic pump to put between the engine and transmission that will fit as of yet. Then there is the issue of heat and hydro cooling. There just is not room for a larger fan.
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How about a small pump beltdriven of the flywheel side of the motor? You should be able to build it into the dash tower, where there is some space, with a pully either on the driveshaft or at the flange for that..
Dash tower is full of steering assist and hydraulic lines.
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