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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I've got a John Deere 2210 and I've got a (barely) used 210 loader that I'm considering purchasing from a dealer up in New York. I would have to get it delivered via freight carrier.

It's missing the subframe (mounting brackets) and hood guard, but it looks like I can get those from greenfarmparts.com:
http://www.greenfarmparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AW31263&CartID=1
http://www.greenfarmparts.com/JOHN_DEERE_FRAME_AW31264_p/aw31264.htm?CartID=3
http://www.greenfarmparts.com/John_Deere_Hood_Guard_Kit_BW15217_p/bw15217.htm

When I add up the cost of freight, loader, subframe, and hood guard, I'm at about $2600. The best price I've been able to find on a new, 200CX loader, mounted on the tractor, is $3200. I've checked on Koyker, Rhino, Bush Hog, and Woods loaders, and all of them are the same or more.

If I take the loader to a dealer for mounting, I would pay about $250. I'm thinking about getting this 210 loader and trying to mount it myself. I looked over the instructions in the manual and it doesn't seem to difficulty--you basically have to bolt the subframe on, and torque it to the appropriate tightness. Here's the manual (scroll down to "Recommended Set Up/Assembly Sequence" and read that and the following several sections for the installation instructions):
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMW49370_19/?tM=FR

I don't see anything about adding hydraulic fluid. Do I need to add extra fluid since the loader is going to hold a certain amount of fluid in the lines and cylinders? It runs off the same oil reservoir as the hydrostatic transmission, right?

So I've got to decide if:

1) If it's worth saving $600 to mount it myself, and get the older 210 loader (instead of the 200CX loader, which is I guess a better loader?)
2) If I'm being unrealistic thinking I can mount it myself. It just doesn't seem that it should be that difficulty, especially considering it's a quick-detach loader.

I'm no diesel engine mechanic, but I'm not afraid of a wrench, either.

-Josh
 

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Once the loader is installed and the tractor running, cycle all the cylinders full stroke 3 or 4 times and check the oil level. Replenish as indicated.

Check it again after using the loader for an hour or so.

I make a habit of cycling the cylinders a couple of times before operating, especially in cold weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anybody out there with a video of attaching/detaching the 210 loader? I've continued to search for this and haven't been able to find a video.
 

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Ill see if I can help. I used to have a 2210 w/ 210 loader. They are easy to remove..

With the 210 loader, you lift up the front tires w/ the loader, then there are two spring loaded pins on the tractor frame up front you pull out and rotate to the holding position. Then your gonna raise the loader up, it wont lift, just rotate or walk away from the tractor. Turn off engine and move the joystick around in all directions to relieve pressure and unhook lines.

Here is a video of a 2210 w/ 210 loader. They dont remove it, but you get a close walk around look at one. The pins are on the front. Click me

Here is a video of removing a 200cx on a 2305. Click me 2
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Quick update on the pricing I gave: I called several local dealers and got clarification on their pricing for a 200CX loader. Once you add in sales tax and the hood guard, the best price I could get on a 200CX loader was $3600. Add another $300 for installation.

So, we're talking about a $1000 savings to go with this 210 loader.

You can do a lot with $1000 in savings. Tough to pass up. But when we started this process I told myself that the most we could afford to spend right now is $2400. So I have to figure out where to get an extra $200 to make this happen.

Or, I could just hold out for a 200CX. But I have real trouble convincing myself that it's worth an extra grand. That extra $1000 could buy me a nice box blade, heavy hitch, and some extra suitcase weights--all things I'd love to have. Or, I could get pallet forks and a tooth bar for the loader--also things I'd benefit from. Or they could go into savings for a future backhoe attachment. There's just a lot you can do with $1000.

-Josh
 

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Quick update on the pricing I gave: I called several local dealers and got clarification on their pricing for a 200CX loader. Once you add in sales tax and the hood guard, the best price I could get on a 200CX loader was $3600. Add another $300 for installation.

So, we're talking about a $1000 savings to go with this 210 loader.

You can do a lot with $1000 in savings. Tough to pass up. But when we started this process I told myself that the most we could afford to spend right now is $2400. So I have to figure out where to get an extra $200 to make this happen.

Or, I could just hold out for a 200CX. But I have real trouble convincing myself that it's worth an extra grand. That extra $1000 could buy me a nice box blade, heavy hitch, and some extra suitcase weights--all things I'd love to have. Or, I could get pallet forks and a tooth bar for the loader--also things I'd benefit from. Or they could go into savings for a future backhoe attachment. There's just a lot you can do with $1000.

-Josh
If you read my comment on your other post, IMHO the 210 loader is a better match for the 2210. :)
 

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latunabernie
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Hello
I am new to this group.
I recently purchased a 2005 2210 with a 210 loader.
Try to get a 210 loader operator's manual. Part # omw49370 It will be very helpful.
It took us about 3 months of looking before we purchased this tractor.
I were insistant that the tractor came with a FEL.
They are very pricey and if you do find one shipping could be kill the deal.

Good Luck
Bernie in Calif.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, I had a thought--should I be worried about anything going bad from sitting for a long time without use? Reportedly this loader has never been mounted. I'm guessing it's been sitting for 5 or more years.

Are there seals in the cylinders that may have failed during that period? I'm wondering if I'll have unexpected repairs when I get it...
 

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If the clinders were extended, check for rust on the chrome wear surface. Otherwise, not likely a problem. My spare loader was in outside storage for about 8 years with no problems when I put it in service.
 

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I would go with the 210 loader and install it myself . By doing it yourself you will be learning everything about the loader by researching how to install it. It also allows you the chance to go over every detail of the condition of the loader itself while installing it. Then you could put the 1000.00 in your pocket instead of John Deere's , I think they get enough money as it is.
 

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I would go for the 210 loader and put it on yourself..... In my opinion much better loader and the parking stand is a Cadillac compared to the Yugo stand on the 200cx
Just my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I decided I had to let this one go because I couldn't afford the loader, the freight, and the mounting hardware. I let the seller know that it would be a great deal for anybody who could pick it up, but it wasn't for me unless the price was dropped all the way down to $1550 for the loader. I could then pick up the freight and I would store it in my barn until I could afford the extra $450 in mounting hardware (probably February).

I didn't think he would let it go for that price. But, guess what? He went for it.

How could I say no to that? Freight will cost me about $300. So that's $1850 for the loader. Where else are you going to get a front end loader for $1850? Once I add in another $450 for the mounting hardware, I'll have $2300 in the deal. As a reminder, the cheapest I was able to find for a new 200CX loader, once you added in sale tax, was $3600. So this is a $1300 savings.

I think I did alright on the price, what do you think?

Of course, it's not shipped yet, so we'll see if we get any hangups at the shipping stage. I've already paid for it, and paid for the freight, though.

-Josh
 

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Good deal!! :fing32:
 

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Congrats and have a Merry Christmas. slkpk
 

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And a Merry Christmas it is indeed! :thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, I finally got the mounting hardware and put it on. And JD raised the price on the hardware by $160 over the last two months. What a disappointment that discovery was!

There was some confusion about the number of bolts needed--the dealer said that the JD specs say 7 bolts total, but I pointed out that there are 7 bolt holes on each side, for a total of 14 bolts. Unfortunately, they only had 12 bolts available.

I made a trip to another local dealer that afternoon, got the remaining two bolts, and the next day (today) I put the loader on. I used a torque wrench to make sure the mounting frame bolts were tightened to specs (105 ft-lbs).

As far as I can tell it works great! I haven't actually used it for anything yet, however.

The sight glass for the hydro fluid still is still completely filled, just as it was before I put the loader on. I guess the loader was already charged with fluid?

One frustration: I picked up this hood guard kit, and it doesn't work with the 210 loader. The parking stand on the loader can't lock into place when the hood guard is on. I had to take the hood guard off. :-( The best I can do is return it and get 70% of what I paid for it back. Maybe I'll try and sell it on MTF.

I've thought about cutting it and welding on some plates to make it taller--if I did that, I think I could make it work with the 210 loader. I don't have the tools or the welding experience to do it, but I might be able to find a local welder who could help me out.

So, there's my update :) I'll try and get some pictures to post shortly.

-Josh
 

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Congrats and your making some progress. Were looking forward to the pics of it. slkpk
 

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Although that ad says their hood guard will work with a 2210/210, here is what the hood guard I know works looks like:

 
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