[kirkwooder]

I just came home with a 12hp Monty tractor model #GLL 33029A that looks to be from the early 70's or maybe even the late 60's. Does anyone know for sure?

It has a 12hp Briggs engine model #300424 that currently has no spark and hasn't run in years, but turns over nicely with the starter and is making 125psi compression. I will be looking for a set of points and a condenser for it tomorrow to try and getting it running. I really hope that these will get it firing without having to pull the cover off to get to the coil. Looks like the motor will have to come out for that to be possible. Pretty poor design if that is indeed the case. :banghead3 Is that the only way to get the flywheel cover off?

 

[Whirly]

there should b 3 sets of numbers on that engine.. model.. type.. & code.. can u post them.. also would love to see a pic of the engine.. also that engine may not have points under the flywheel..

 

[AmericanElm2382]

Can't wait to see pictures. Like whirly said... The points probably are not under the flywheel, but under the cover below the carb and to the left.... It will most likely be points that need to be cleaned, readjusted to .020 gap, or a new condenser.

Welcome to the club!! It's a fun little addiction... Ha

 

[kirkwooder]

No, the points are on the side of the block, and I have already cleaned and adjusted them. There is still no spark, so I'm looking for replacements. My fear is based on the fact that the points and condenser look to be in very good shape. I'm worried about wires and the coil under that cover, but will get the new points in it first, just to be sure.

Does anyone know if there are any electronic ignition options for this engine? Points and condenser are going to cost upwards of $50 to replace. I really don't want to do that too many times. mg:

Complete engine numbers, by the way, are model 300424 type 0121 02 serial 6803261. If I remember correctly, the 6803261 number denotes a 1968 date of manufacture for the engine.

I'll do my best to get some photos put up, but I'm pretty useless with new technology. I'm very much a points kind of guy! :dunno: I may need to get my wife to help, again. lol

 

[kirkwooder]

I hope that this works......If it does I'll post some more :thThumbsU

 

[kirkwooder]

 

[AmericanElm2382]

I have a 1970 that had the same issue... SO frustrating.

I was able to convert to the electronic ignition coil, successfully. ( must be internally resisted)

The electronic coil has two wires out of it... one goes to points.. one goes to ignition switch... pretty simple.

Before going that route, i would mess with the gap a little more. Do you get a little shock if you hold the spark plug wire while it turns over??


new points and condesor, $33:
New Points and Condenser Briggs Stratton 298185 298060 | eBay

 

[Whirly]

No, the points are on the side of the block, and I have already cleaned and adjusted them. There is still no spark, so I'm looking for replacements. My fear is based on the fact that the points and condenser look to be in very good shape. I'm worried about wires and the coil under that cover, but will get the new points in it first, just to be sure.

Does anyone know if there are any electronic ignition options for this engine? Points and condenser are going to cost upwards of $50 to replace. I really don't want to do that too many times. mg:

Complete engine numbers, by the way, are model 300424 type 0121 02 serial 6803261. If I remember correctly, the 6803261 number denotes a 1968 date of manufacture for the engine.

I'll do my best to get some photos put up, but I'm pretty useless with new technology. I'm very much a points kind of guy! :dunno: I may need to get my wife to help, again. lol

have u checked evilbay for points.. I have a model '23' B & S engine that was made in Aug of 1951 that still has the original points in it & she still runs..

to clean the points use real fine grit emery paper & slide it thro the contacts when they r closed.. flip it over to do both surfaces..

u have to have the gap set right on the .020 setting.. if off.. no spark..

 

[Whirly]

these r cheaper..

Oregon 33 601 Points Replacement for Briggs Stratton 298185 | eBay

 

[GB in MN]

Hi, remove the points and clean them good using emery cloth as posted, also on those engine the points are normally open and as the cam turns the plunger goes into a slight dip to close the points if the spring that is attached to the points is weak or the tap were the spring attaches is bent there may not be enough tension to close the points good. If you use a continuity light you'll know if the points are making good contact, once you have the points working good check to see if you have spark, the electromic deally do work well with these engines. If you have no spark or weak spark its the coil and cdonverting the engine to battery ignition is easy and the simplest way to go. You really don't want to pull the engine as its a real PITA.

 

[kirkwooder]

The biggest problem with the ebay stuff is it takes a week to get here. My local shop can have them tomorrow for $42 plus tax. I have cleaned them very well, and checked the gap, but still have no spark. I may just replace the condenser because the points really do look to be in very good condition.

Does anyone know what the resistance reading should be on the coil wire? The one that goes to the points? I have only a few ohms resistance to ground on the wire from the coil.

And does anyone have any idea of a build date?

 

[Whirly]

The biggest problem with the ebay stuff is it takes a week to get here. My local shop can have them tomorrow for $42 plus tax. I have cleaned them very well, and checked the gap, but still have no spark. I may just replace the condenser because the points really do look to be in very good condition.

Does anyone know what the resistance reading should be on the coil wire? The one that goes to the points? I have only a few ohms resistance to ground on the wire from the coil.

And does anyone have any idea of a build date?

u posted this..

Complete engine numbers, by the way, are model 300424 type 0121 02 serial 6803261. If I remember correctly, the 6803261 number denotes a 1968 date of manufacture for the engine.

I'll add that the engine was made in 1968.. the third month.. the 26th of that month by the factory line ##1.. since the engine was made in March.. I'm willin to bet the tractor was made in 1968 too..

 

[kirkwooder]

u posted this..

Complete engine numbers, by the way, are model 300424 type 0121 02 serial 6803261. If I remember correctly, the 6803261 number denotes a 1968 date of manufacture for the engine.

I'll add that the engine was made in 1968.. the third month.. the 26th of that month by the factory line ##1.. since the engine was made in March.. I'm willin to bet the tractor was made in 1968 too..

:thanku:

I was thinking that was how those numbers worked. I guess this machine is a bit older than I thought at first, It looks fairly lightly used, however it came to me without any implements. I have an old atv snow plow I might hook up and see how it works, if I ever get it up and running.

Thank You.

 

[kirkwooder]

The new points and condenser didn't help any. Does anyone have any idea what kind of resistance reading I should have on the low tension side of the coil? I'm reading less than 3 ohms, and I think that must be too low.

 

[PGHsteelworker]

This is what I paid from a local shop for a 16 horse briggs in my gilson. If I had known how much they were going to cost me I would have done some diagnosing first.:swow: