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Member Extraordinaire - Deceased March 2017
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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody own one? They are korean i understand and they have a 23 hp that i guess is equivelant to the jd 2305. A friend of mine has started selling them about a mile from my house, but i haven't looked at them up close yet. Here is a pic of the 23 hp that i got off the web. I wonder pricewise how they compare to the jd? I also heard that JB Hunt owns the right to them.

Dur
 

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There's a dealer in "downtown" Magnolia... I keep meaning to stop in and take a look at 'em, but haven't done so.

One thing that I find rather curious is that he's been selling those tractors for a couple of years, now... and I have YET to see one in a field, or yard, or anywhere other than on his lot....

They ARE nice looking tractors... (and there appears to be a decent variety of models/sizes available... with/without cabs, loaders, etc.)
 

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Sweet looking machine. The picture is a Model T2334.. Check out the specs on the hydraulics.. It should out perform most tractors in its class. If they have/create a good dealer network with parts and support, they should be able to get a decent sized market share. [edit[ They already have 200 dealers in North America

specs are @
http://www.montanatractors.com/pages/12_30series_T2234.html
 

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the "AWOL member"
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We've got a dealer here in Harrisburg.I've looked at them through the fence after closing and they appear to be nice machines but I'm like Steve they've been there awhile and I've yet to see one in use around here!Maybe everybody's taking a you go first attitude!! :hide: ROF :fing32:
 

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Member Extraordinaire - Deceased March 2017
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Discussion Starter #8
I was almost in your hometown sunday night pigsitter. I dropped a load in marion. I didn't realize i was so close to you till i just looked at where you were.

Dur
 

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Hey Durwood it gets even better Marion is Steve's hometown!! By the way where did you drop a load at?Man that didn't sound right!! :hide: ROF ROF :fing32:
 

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Member Extraordinaire - Deceased March 2017
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Discussion Starter #13
pigsitter said:
Hey Durwood it gets even better Marion is Steve's hometown!! By the way where did you drop a load at?Man that didn't sound right!! :hide: ROF ROF :fing32:
A place called Aisin is where i dropped pigsitter. A realitively new place it looked like. redcon rd or something like that.

Dur
 

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Came upon this old post from 2006 and looked up the above link posted by horseman1
just to get more info. Came back with "This domain available." Not a good sign. Came up with this on Google, which shows the company history, and from what I read it seems that Montana is no more, at least as a manufacturer. If anyone is interested, here's the link.
MikeC
http://tractors.wikia.com/wiki/Montana_Tractors
 

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This repair has to do with the 3040 or any tractor that is hard to shift.
(((first off anything that is hard to shift take this as a tell tell sign there is something wrong with your clutch))) oil on the clutch or a bad pilot bearing can cause you a entire loss of your F-R shuttle.
Repair your clutch or bearing immediately. You should be able to shift with your tiny pinky...or it will break your shift linkage.

Ok this repair is for the guys who forced it and broke their F-R shiftier.
don't sweat it..ill step you thru it....since even the Montana tractor tech cant do this. (or wouldn't share it)

1: your going to have to remove your clutch box lid all shiftier's have to be removed F-R shifter will fall off since you broke it and the range shifter will remove easily with the roll pin.
pry lid at back slowly do not strike it with chisels a big pry bar and steady force the lid will ease upward after all the bolts are removed.
wiggle your lid up the remaining shifter rods and off.

2: drain your forward oil plug..nice clean pan you may be able to reuse it if you strain it.

3: study your trans so you understand when your in neutral and when in gear.
with your lid off you can shift nearly all gears except reverse by hand.
find and select neutral...your center shaft will roll freely by hand when your in N

4:roll your main gear shaft until you can feel the snap ring come TDC on the leading gear #34 on the print comes to the top dead center. LOCK TRANS IN GEAR.
Now either use 90 degree snap ring pliers or outward snap pliers with paddles that can release this snap ring. its a biggy no cheap tools will survive...use the good stuff snap-on mac etc.

5: after you release this most forward snap ring on your main shaft your gear 34 should advance forward. use brass as your persuasion...your internal any these gears will chip with steel hammers so use brass round bar to bring this gear forward toward the front of trans. just bring it up 1/4 inch.

6: go to your broken F-R shift shaft item #11 on the print clamp on with vise grips (broken shafts will vary) so grab toward the top.
wiggle the shaft upward by hand out of its machined pocket lift upward 3/4s of a inch and roll the shaft a little more than 180 degrees more like 270.
SHIFT TRANS INTO NEUTRAL AT THIS POINT.

7: bring the broken shift shaft upwards the shift selector ball #7 is roll pinned on to the shaft 11 and it needs to be brought upward until it is centered in the gear 34,,Now hand roll the main shaft so the the shaft and shift selector #7 feeds inside the gear cog between the trans case wall and gear there's only 1/4 inch clearance here and your shift selector will use all of it rch clearance. half of your selector will be in the gear cog and half will be scrapping the trans case wall as it comes out.
This appears to be built this way (and its the only way to remove this without splitting the tractor and removing all the shafts.)
I called a million people and no one came up with this for instructions.
either they were not willing to share or were simply dumbfounded when it told them top removal was possible.

so hopefully if you ever brake this F-R shaft in your 3040 tractor don't sweat it....it is possible to remove this shaft in just hours
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPLIT THIS TRACTOR FOR THIS SHAFT REMOVAL
BUT YOU WILL UNDERSTAND THE "RCH" THEORY "when your done" THIS WILL BE ALL YOU GET FOR CLEARANCE TO REMOVE YOUR BROKEN SHAFT. (between the case wall and the unemployed side of your main shaft #34 gearcog))....its tight and it scrapes the red paint inside your case but it will not break item #7 selector arm.

It re-installs the same way. its your choice....a few hours my way.... or 40-80 hours to split your tractor and then remove all the shafts from your clutch box. some have told them they junked their tractors because of this shaft..needlessly. Montana tractor.com said this is a 5000 dollar job.

I just laughed.....this is a 200 dollar job people total....! with part.
but make sure your clutch is free....and your tractor shifts with 1 pinky finger when done with the engine running.
(otherwise this shaft will break again.):sidelaugh

http://partsformontanatractors.com/files/Montana_SParts_3040_38402.pdf
 
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