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Lindeman crawler fan
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2,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
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I ran into some problems on the rear end !

With the addition of the auxiliary transmission, I cant depend on the stock model T brake that stops the drive shaft.
If the auxiliary transmission is in neutral then there is no braking action transmitted to the drive shaft.

The emergency brakes on a 1925 rear axle are only 8 inch diameter and 1 inch wide.
They are also unlined steel shoes. Even if I got the newer lined shoes they are not big enough to use for full time brakes.

So .. I have a set of old aftermarket outside brake bands with new linings on them and a pair of axle mounting brackets.
I figured I could use a set of 11 inch brake drums from the 26 or 27 model T and mount them over the stock 8 inch drums on the 25 rear axle.
Then I could use the outside brake bands.

Here are the brake bands, mounting brackets and 11 brake drums.



First off .. the auxiliary brake mounting brackets will not fit the 25 axle housings.
Then I realized the 26/27 drums won't fit over 25 drums either.

I did find out the auxiliary brake mounting brackets will fit the 26/27 axle housing.
I tried to find a complete 26/27 rear axle but could only find axle housings.

Here is a 26/27 housing on the left and a 25 housing on the right. You can see the difference in the diameter of the backing plates.



The model T used the same gears and axle shafts in all the cars thru 27 so I can put the parts from my axle in the 26/27 housings.
Then I can use the outside brake bands.
I will have to make the actuating leavers, rods and brackets as they are missing.

I was able to pick up a good pair of 26/27 emergency brake shoes off ebay at about 1/3 the cost of new shoes.
The 26/27 shoes are a thin formed steel.
Even though they have a lining riveted to them, they are to thin to use as full time brakes.
I feel they would over heat real fast.
Besides .. I still need emergency and parking brakes.


I purchased new rear axle shafts, bearings, bearing sleeves, thrust washers and seals.
This is assembling the axle.



The rear axle housings are bolted together and the drive shaft is bolted in place.



Then I removed the small 8 inch drums from the wheels and replaced them with the larger 11 inch brake drums.




Next was to make the mechanism to operate the outside brakes.
This is laying out the front mounting brackets out of 1/2 inch steel.



Finished bracket mounted in place.



Making the bushing housings for the pivot rods.



Bushing housing welded in place on the bracket.



Making the brake actuating bracket.


Finished brake pivot rods and actuating arms.



Upper and lower clevis arms are completed and attached to the actuating arm and the outside brake band,



These are the rear brake levers that I built that fit on the inside of the brake pivot rods.
They have adjustable stops to control how far the outside brake bands open up.



Rear brake arms installed.



The stock emergency brake shoes are installed.
I have to put new bushings in the rear spring mounts and bolt them on to the backing plate and then the wheel can go back on.
 

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Old as Sin
Joined
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2,187 Posts
thanks for update , i think you know what your doing and got great ideas , can hardley wait to see more .

shd
 

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Retired Aug.31 2007
Joined
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7,473 Posts
Man you are a great fabricator and know how to put things together. I wish I had your skills. Keep the pics coming. They are great.
 

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Gearhead
Joined
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878 Posts
I really like the idea of real brakes. If nothing else it seems like there would be more stress on the drivetrain using the original brake because of the auxillary transmission and the extra backlash it brings with it.

Does this mean there will be another foot pedal, or will you reconfigure the original?
 

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Lindeman crawler fan
Joined
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2,733 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I really like the idea of real brakes. If nothing else it seems like there would be more stress on the drivetrain using the original brake because of the auxillary transmission and the extra backlash it brings with it.

Does this mean there will be another foot pedal, or will you reconfigure the original?

Actually, I'm taking out one of the three pedals.
With the reverse gear in the auxiliary transmission I no longer need the reverse band in the "T" transmission so I'm removing the "reverse" pedal.

When using the auxiliary brakes the "brake band" is also removed from the "T" transmission because it is imposable to synchronies the transmission brake with the rear brakes.
The brake pedal will then be hooked up to operate the auxiliary brakes.
 
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