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G.T.Fever-VA
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Discussion Starter #1
Friends! I am tearing into the new to me 47 blower as I wanted to add the flapper mod to the impeller.

I have removed the rear plate and large sprocket. I have been able to remove the eccentric locking collar. My issue is the bearing on the shaft. It is on there solid!! I’m assuming it should just slide off the shaft, correct?

Otherwise I can’t remove the auger and then remove the impeller to “flapper-ize” it.

Bearing is good, very quiet. I’m trying not to damage it as I remove...

Let me know if I’m on the right track. Thanks!!



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GT, You're correct, the bearing should just slide off! Most likely just rust holding it in place. Harbor Freight has bearing pullers, about $50, and you may be able to get a "loaner" from an auto parts store.This would be the correct tool. Even though the bearings are quiet, I'd replace them, it's only a matter of time before you do.

It looks like the bearing has started to move. Some thin pieces of wood behind the flange and a few "persuasive taps" on the auger shaft and the bearing may move more, More wood, more tapping, and it'll be off. Now would also be a good time to replace the lube in your gearbox & grease drive shaft! Best of luck with your repairs/mods. Bob
 

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rwmeyer is correct, get yourself new bearings for the entire blower. It is only a matter of time until you need to completely replace them anyway. There are 5 total. 2 for for the auger (one on each end), 1 behind the sprocket, and 2 for the jack shaft.
 

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G.T.Fever-VA
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Discussion Starter #4
Got it!! I had to bend and cut the flange off in order to have some purchase for the puller arms to grab the bearing. Once I got the flange off, I pulled out the auger and shaft assembly, threw it on the workbench and started cranking on it.

A little heat (since I was replacing the bearing anyway) and some old fashioned elbow grease is all it took.

I think someone had been in there and put the thing together incorrectly. The bearing was between the locking concentric collar and the flange. Look at the pic. That flange should have been outside the bearing with the housing between it and the flange on the auger side... does that make sense? That’s why I couldn’t pull the assembly out (the flange was in the way).



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G.T.Fever-VA
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Discussion Starter #5
So, I’ve been busy. I went ahead and got the flapper pieces on the impeller, painted it up along with the impeller section of the housing while I had it apart. I picked up a new bearing for the shaft and now I’m gonna slap it all back together.

Any thoughts on getting the new bearing on the shaft? I was thinking a length of pipe that will fit over the shaft.

Also have to grow another set of hands as the shaft is still attached to the augers and is not at all steady!!



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Any thoughts on getting the new bearing on the shaft? I was thinking a length of pipe that will fit over the shaft.
That bearing with ecc locking collar should be a sliding fit on that shaft, not need a pipe to press on. You need to get a piece of fine emery paper with some WD-40 or other lube and polish the shaft lightly. I would use just a bit of anti-seize as well when assembling.
 

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G.T.Fever-VA
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Discussion Starter #7
Its a one inch shaft as far as I can tell from parts diagrams. I have a one inch bearing. Should fit. I have been cleaning it up as best as possible and will try it with some lubricant also.
 

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G.T.Fever-VA
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Discussion Starter #8
Please take a look at my first three pics of this thread.

Isn't that flange supposed to be on the auger side of the housing, with the bearing sandwiched between the second flange located on the back side of the housing??

Thats the way I see it on the parts diagram and that is how all the other bearings/flanges are set up...

But on mine, when disassembling, I found the both halves of the flange, and the bearing in the middle, bolted on the back side of the housing... With the bearing seized on the shaft, the only way to remove the auger assembly was to cut the flange off.

When I reassemble, I'm going to put a flange on the auger side of housing, then the bearing, then the other flange and bolt it properly. You guys agree?
47 blower main shaft parts diagram.JPG
 

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Sorry... forgot to comment. With all the other bearing plates on the blower; auger bearings, short shaft and drive shaft bearing carrier, the bearing plates are always placed directly against each other on the same side of the metal mounting surface. If you sandwich the mounting surface between the plates I believe the bearing will be loose in the mount.

2444062
 

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G.T.Fever-VA
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Discussion Starter #12
Here you go guys. As I said in the vid, I think I need to oil the chain a bit more. Also, I'll check the bearing where the shaft comes through the frame as that may need replacing. Also need to level the shoes and remove/reverse the cutting edge and replace some bolts that are completely worn down through half the heads :oops:!!!

Other than that I'm happy with the outcome and just need some snow to try it out!!!
 

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Glad to see you are back together. Make sure the sprockets are in same plane as that #40 chain doesn't handle misalignment well.
 

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Yup, chain sounds dry! Also, engage pto at lowest speed possible and not max rpm...saves wear on pto. Check chain slack while you're lubing...should be around 1/2"-5/8" slack. Bob
 

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Yup, chain sounds dry! Also, engage pto at lowest speed possible and not max rpm...saves wear on pto. Check chain slack while you're lubing...should be around 1/2"-5/8" slack. Bob
The Operator's Manual says:
  • Push chain shield left to provide tension on the chain. Deflection should be 4.7-10 mm (3/16-3/8 in.).
  • Rotate snowblower several turns and make sure chain has at least 4.7 mm (3/16 in.) deflection at all times.
The second step is important due to the sprockets typically being a bit non-concentric. Rotate the sprockets and check the tension every 90-degrees. Make sure it is never tighter than 3/16-inch. If you have to choose between too tight and a tad loose, always choose a tad loose.
 

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G.T.Fever-VA
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Discussion Starter #16
I had everything apart, so when reinstalling, I oiled chain a bit, made sure sprockets were level, tensioned chain properly. But I’m sure the chain needs more lube.

Really anxious to try it out.

The flappers closed the gap by half between impeller blades and housing. I didn’t want it rubbing all my new paint off. Maybe 1/16 of an inch clearance all the way around. Should be good to go.


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