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Docsplace
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Yeah I looked into buying ROPS for mine because I didn't trust it but I swapped the rear wheels around and it give it more
8" more wheel base and now it's pretty stable. I think that I read once that they basically all come off assembly line in the japan the satohs, Mits, case, whatever else they built but I have seen the Korean versions online for sale mine is a japanese-made 1983. it has been a good tractor but this clutch thing is got me screwed for now getting ready to pull in the garage and tear it down and look at it.
 

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Well there are only 4 parts it can be: linkage, thrust bearing, fork, or clutch plate/disc.

The clutch is pretty simple on these, although the plates are not exactly cheap.

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Docsplace
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Well I got 1601D split and does not appear to be a clutch problem, The clutch pedal is not engaging the throw out bearing.
and it's in gear box under the steering shaft arm. Clutch seems to be wore out tho, just wondering how that clutch system works. I gotta study and research this 1 a little more. Where is the link to your repair manual you uploaded, I can not seem to find it. What I have in manual is vague and does not offer much info.
 

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Docsplace
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What I see so far is the release or thrust bearing appears to be stuck and the fork is not engaging the release bearing when clutch is depressed. First thing is I'm going have to adjust that clutch pedal play to make sure that is not a issue, So for I can not move the release bearing hub by hand or with pry bar. There is about 3" of free play in clutch pedal before it starts moving the arm forward to engage the fork, then about another inch of movement for the arm and then it's gets stiff with no movement of the arm or release bearing and about another 2 or more inch of clutch pedal before it would bottom out if it was working, So it looks like either the pins are sheared or bent or forks and or stuck hub release bearing assy. (today's job is to figure that out lol) I found a pretty good image of that under the case IH 234 parts web site, it's not exactly the same but close enough to see what parts are involved in the clutch system. https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr62556ar396096
 

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Sorry, busy weekend trying to get a tamped floor done.

If the bearing spins and your fork is in decent condition, it is likely in your pedal linkage. Maybe some old grease or packed in dirt?

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Clutch pedal diagram from the parts list.

There is not a lot of stuff that can be wrong with it, all I can suggest is to disconnect the linkage and test each part to see where it is binding.


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Docsplace
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Clutch pedal diagram from the parts list.

There is not a lot of stuff that can be wrong with it, all I can suggest is to disconnect the linkage and test each part to see where it is binding.


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Clutch pedal seems to be working fine. Just will not engage the bearing, It's either locked up or fork is sheared pins. Trying to get the bearing to move by hand and it will not move. May have to exspose the fork and inspect it.
 

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Docsplace
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I can not see the fork to inspect it. It is in the clutch release shaft housing, it has to be removed to access the Fork. It has to pins that hold the fork in place, I'm thinking maybe hub release shaft is froze up and will not move by hand or pedal and may have shear'd the pins. I even put a puller on it and it just pulled the throw out bearing and hub return spring bracket off. it wouldn't even move the release fork shaft that is suppose to come out and push the pressure plate to engage the clutch.??? Looks like I am going to have to pull that clutch release shaft housing. D**it. lol, I will play with the clutch pedal linkage some more to make sure it is OK.
 

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The ... not the easiest way to remove that shaft is to take the 2-4wd shift handle out.

Rotate the shaft until you can see the front locking bolt on the coupling and unscrew it. Everything will then slide forward and out.

That will only work if you have tools that you can work through the hole. Preferably a thin ratchet and shallow socket.

I do not clearly recall if you can reach it from underneath if you remove the front shaft deflector plate. You will need to remove that though if you drop your tool inside.

Well I guess they call it a cover in the parts manual. It covers the upper bottom shaft u-jount to the lower/front input shaft.

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Docsplace
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I can not see the fork to inspect it. It is in the clutch release shaft housing, it has to be removed to access the Fork. It has to pins that hold the fork in place, I'm thinking maybe hub release shaft is froze up and will not move by hand or pedal and may have shear'd the pins. I even put a puller on it and it just pulled the throw out bearing and hub return spring bracket off. it wouldn't even move the release fork shaft that is suppose to come out and push the pressure plate to engage the clutch.??? Looks like I am going to have to pull that clutch release shaft housing. D**it. lol, I will play with the clutch pedal linkage some more to make sure it is OK.
Update: The clutch release hub is definitely stuck. I have been heating it and lubricating it most the day. I was able to hammer it in but not to pull it out yet.
 

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Docsplace
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OK that looks like it might be fun, It has another pin and bolt in the hub release housing, Looks like I'm just going to have to do it. Looks like a good project for tomorrow lol. I had already removed that cover for the ujoints and drive shaft I'll see if I can remove that 2/4 drive shifter and plate in morning looks like loads of fun. I think the release shaft is rusted and locked up and it's going to need sanded and never seized to make it work again.
 

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Docsplace
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I wonder if there is a access hole under the steering gearbox and column , that would be directly over the release shaft.
The bolt and lock nut is kinda rusty in the 2x4 shift lever hole access and looks like it just releases the spline shaft, I am going to need it to to align the clutch. I couldn't see any on any of the diagrams. Maybe 1 small hole.
 

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Docsplace
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Well I found out the hard way, There is no access hole under the steering gear box. What I see to get the Hub release or the hub release fork out they want you to remove the middle section of that tractor from transmission gear box known as the clutch housing. I can make a access hole if I can figure out another way of pulling that rusty release hub. I could drill and cut a decent size 2.5-3" hole and the steering gear box will cover it up. Or pull the housing. At this point I'm not sure if I pull the housing it is open enough on the other end to get in there and do what I have to do.
 

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Docsplace
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Update on the Release Bearing shaft, I was able to get it pulled today by welding a heavy washer to the release shaft and getting a bearing puller behind it with a slide hammer behind it and with 3 pulls and she's out, Just gotta get the right tools. Now just have to grind the welds polish it up slap some never seize on it and then start checking the clutch. Shoo that was a little more then I expected.
 

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You undid the coupling though I hope?

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Oh, and I am not sure you want to drill holes in that column. Mitsubishi has a note about it being some funny type of alloy.

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Docsplace
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There does not appear to be any couple on the release bearing hub. It's held by a bolt with a tapered end and lock nut that has a keyed slot in it and a return spring. That release bearing slides in/out around the spline shaft to trany. There is bolt coupler that holds that spline shaft. I did not need to remove that.
 

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I was not fully sure which part you were referring to when you mentioned release bearing shaft above.

(Aha! I finally fixed my tapatalk alerts.)

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