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A Proud MF'er
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, after a slow first time pass at dismounting the FEL and mounting the Quick-Hitch/Sub-frame and 2360 snowblower, all went well up to the engagement of the clutch on the mid-PTO. The engine stalls every time. I've tried low and up-to-2000 RPM and there is spin for a second then the engine stalls. I've made sure the blower is down in case of mechanical drag on the drivetrain.

I know the blower spun freely before mounting (it's new! But I spun it to be sure..)and the hitch/subframe was greased and spun as well. The mid-PTO shaft U-joints were greased, and just before mounting the shaft, I noticed the yolk/lock (tractor end) was not moving freely so I oiled it and got it moving easily. I did not try the mid-PTO output shaft at the tractor before mounting everything else.

One thing: while mounting the PTO shaft at the tractor end, I fiddled with it until the u-joint moved all the way toward the transmission. I did not hear a "click" but found it firmly locked in place, in fact I was unable to move it forward at all. I was concerned, but had never installed this PTO shaft before and so was not sure if that was the correct placement or not.

For those who have done this process often, does the shaft install sound incomplete? I suspect that could be a problem. If you can confirm, or suggest other possibilities, please do.

Thanks.
 

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Moderator
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2,117 Posts
Does it die right away....or after a short interval?.....sounds like a safety switch if right away...that is one nice tractor, I hope you get it going right
 

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A Proud MF'er
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It spins for a second, then the engine dies. Which safety switch would you be referring to? I am aware of the seat switch, the neutral switch..

Do tell...
 

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L120/G110 Hybridizer
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1,134 Posts
On my GC1710 the mid-PTO connection ends in a click or a snap. After aligning the splines and pulling back on the collar, I fiddle with it to get it started. As soon as it starts to slide back on the shaft, release the collar and keep moving it backwards until it "snaps". Once in correct position, it won't budge either forward or back.

If I experienced your symptoms, I'd first disconnect the PTO at the hydro end and see if it still stalls when engaged. If it does, that will probably mean $$$$s. While disconnected, I'd try turning the PTO shaft by hand. It should be relatively easy to turn with no snow in the bucket. If it binds or locks, then there is something amiss in the blower - wedged screw, last years newspaper, packing cardboard, things like that. Isn't is frustrating when it's new and still won't work!! :)

Good luck,
Paul
 

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A Proud MF'er
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
OK, another pass and now have the PTO shaft properly "click" engaged at the hydro. I also tested without the shaft connected and the engine dies when the clutch is disengaged. So I'm thinking (hoping) safety switch. I see a switch in the clutch linkage below the seat, but need to understand it more. I am in the manual now but not finding much yet...

So close...
 

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Professional Homeowner
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6,931 Posts
I'd suggest looking a little closer at the seat switch.
Clutch safety switch "should" just keep the machine from being started with clutch engaged. Seat switch ensures butt must be in seat for PTO to operate without killing engine. Sounds like the seat doesn't know they're a butt in it.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'd suggest looking a little closer at the seat switch.
Clutch safety switch "should" just keep the machine from being started with clutch engaged. Seat switch ensures butt must be in seat for PTO to operate without killing engine. Sounds like the seat doesn't know they're a butt in it.
But (butt..) it starts and runs otherwise. The PTO stalling happens whether I'm in the seat or not. The seat switch gave me trouble earlier in the year, wire cut by the rotation action of the switch, I found it and repaired it and although it is still manually bypassed, the machine starts no problem.

Do the PTO and seat or neutral switches work in concert somehow, to the extent that bypassing one of those two would make it kill the engine when the clutch is let off?
 

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Professional Homeowner
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6,931 Posts
Hmmm... On my GC2300 the brake pedal eas JUST a brake. Didn't need to press it to start the engine.
On another note, with my factory intact wiring, I did not have to have the seat switch pressed to start/run the machine. Range selector had to be in neutral and the PTO disengaged to start it. Once running, as long as the PTO was engaged, seat had to be occupied. I could climb off the tractor with the range selector in gear without the parking brake set and it would continue to run, as long as the PTO wasn't engaged.
 

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A Proud MF'er
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74 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Re: Mid-PTO Stalls. GC2410 [SOLVED Thanks!]

Steddy wins the prize!

I went back out to look closer at the seat switch. I knew it was tied off and the machine starts whether I'm on it or not, but once I got the idea that the switches were working together somehow, I agreed that something like that was going to be the cause.

Sure enough, the arm on the seat switch had relaxed as the zap-strap had slid down the arm. I slid it back down (a new system bypass coming soon...) and once started, the PTO ran fine. So glad that was easy to solve.

Thanks to a couple of folks for suggesting the seat switch, but steddy was persistent and that is appreciated!
 

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Professional Homeowner
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6,931 Posts
I’m glad you got it fixed. I might suggest re-enabling that seat switch, though. If you machine is wired how mine was, it really isn’t bad. The only thing that held my wiring design back was 3pt implements such as a chipper and PTO generator wouldn’t have worked without a butt in the seat. Some of the other models you flip the seat forward and engage the rear PTO, and you’re good to go. Mine wasn’t like that.
 
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