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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the other day I was thinking I have this brantly front end loader getting overgrown in the tall grass not doing anything so what better to do with it then to mount it on my MF14 with a yanmar air cooled diesel! The loader came with the brantly backhoe that I mounted to my kubota g3200. The loader already has a subframe that was originally from an airens tractor which looks like it would have had two u bolts to hold it to the rear end and two mounts that attach to the frame under the foot rests. Im hoping to save the axle mounting points and redo the front ones to mount on the original holes on the MF14 frame where I think the mower deck hanger would have mounted. I think it will be really close to lining up. The brantly for the airens had the pump on the loader subframe so that will have to be moved up front directly from the motor or belt driven off the crank. I also plan to make a foot pedal for the hydro and add power steering. Anyways heres a few pics:)
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also preparing for the loader I recently upgraded the front end with trailer spindles/hubs and mounted 18x8.50/8 trailer wheels and 26x12/12Ag tires on the stock rear wheels :) they should be pretty heavy once there loaded also have bolens cast wheel weights which are around 50lbs I think. For the spindles I used my lathe to bore the trailer stubs and then slid them onto the stock spindles and welded them on. Doing them this way keeps all the original geometry also I do plan to gusset them a bunch before the loader is going.
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It's going to be a great set-up! (y)

Plan on picking up a couple of spare tie rod ends. My MF1655 used to eat at least one a year (100 hours of use). The steering box on mine needed a rebuild at about 1200 hours,

Thirteen gallons of windshield washer antifreeze will give you about 105 lb of added weight per tire plus the 50 lb wheel weights for a total of about 310 lb. You need another 300 lb of rear end ballast. My 1655 carried 400 lb of liquid (calcium chloride - 160 lb per tire, but it rusts out the rims in 12 years), tire chains, and a rack behind the seat for the pump which will do for light payloads (to 500 - 600 lb), plus a 250 lb back blade for payloads up to 1000 lb. For pulling fence posts, I trade the back blade for the 385 lb tiller, and if I really need it, have 40 lb of wheel weights for each wheel that I can add.

You have the same hydro/ final drive that is in my larger 1655. If you can sort out a foot pedal control you will absolutely love it! Keep in mind that a foot pedal needs centering springs to bring the pedal back to neutral if your foot falls off of it for any reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The tie rod ends will definitely be upgraded to something stonger like heim joints or small car stuff probably when I do the powersteering conversion. I was never really impressed with the current steering system it could be made alot simpler.

I really like the transaxle in this tractor because of the hi neutral low shifter and its quite beefy and works really well. However it does creep sometimes so i just leave it in neutral with the brake on. The foot pedal might help with this.

going to have some more time to work on it this weekend Im hoping to get the subframe and front supports fitted and look at mounting the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah I cant wait to have a hydrostatic loader Tractor with foot pedal control its going to be way more productive then the gear drive in the kubota g3200 I have. 🚜
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Found these ubolts at work and thought they might work for the subframe connection to the axle tubes and they fit perfect!! They are 1/2” so quite a bit bigger than the original holes but I will probably cut the angle iron brackets off the subframe and make some new ones for these ubolts.
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Found these ubolts at work and thought they might work for the subframe connection to the axle tubes and they fit perfect!! They are 1/2” so quite a bit bigger than the original holes but I will probably cut the angle iron brackets off the subframe and make some new ones for these ubolts. View attachment 2507314
Not sure if it'll work for your sub frame but I plan on using flat bar bent in the same radius & have it in between the ears for the three point lift arms. The closer you can get to the transaxle the better. Plus with them in between the ears, the arms can't "walk" any. (chances are they'll never move anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good point the subframe is fairly wide but Im trying to keep the same rail spacing because the backhoe that originally came with this loader also has a subframe that connects to the loader frame crossmember and it fits in between the loader subframe rails. I want to keep the option of possibly mounting the backhoe to this tractor. And I also want the ears on the axle to still work for the sleeve hitch I already have on the back now or maybe a homebrew three point hitch one day.
 

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I did the same as Jason plans to do with his, but I did it 39 years ago with 3/16" X 1" strapping. As you can see in the pic, there is still plenty of room for the original 3PH.

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thats a good and stong connection but I want the wider spacing for the backhoe frame to clear plus my subframe looks like it was intended to mount under the axle tubes rather than inline. Those axle tubes also appear to be longer than the ones on my mf14 same final drive but maybe the 1655 has a wider track.
 

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The 1655 is 48" wide at the outside of the 12" wide tires. I believe that the tubes are 13.5" long vs 11.5" for your 14.

It's been a long time, but I seem to recall reading that there are at least 3 different tube and axle lengths for that final drive. I cam't remember the exact lengths.

My subframe was built heavy enough to lift the rear wheels off of the ground with 865 lb of ballast and a 200+ lb operator. With the tractor's weight on the rear axle, that's about 1500 lb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I havent got a whole lot done on the massey the last few days. Crazy heat waves we had made working on anything outside unbearable. But i did get he subframe mocked up and the mounts figured out in my head :) I'm just going to tie into the existing holes where the deck hanger mounts are and then the front angle supports look like they will bolt right up to the bumper mount bolt holes with some longer bolts. I just enlarged on hole and re drilled another for the axle mount its super simple and should be plenty strong.
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Mmm. You do realize that the sub frame has to be not only strong enough to push the cutting edge into whatever material that you're dealing with, but also to lift the 1000 lb or so that the rear tires normally put on the ground into the air, don't you?

The MF14 has the same type of frame as the MF1655, so pushing the cutting edge shouldn't be a problem as long as the bolts and welds hold up, but my learning curve was on a MF12H and the axle torque from the much lighter hydro broke that tractor in half 3 times before I figured out the cure, With LO range, the MF14 can deliver 3 to 4 times the axle torque that the MF12H can deliver. It is really hard to convey to other people just how much pushing force is available with the drive train in these MF tractors.

My 1655 carried 650 lb of ballast normally, and up to 865 lb in special circumstances. Add on the 450 lb of the rear of the tractor and an operator that weighed north of 200 lb and, when the rear wheels came off the ground, the sub frame was responsible for lifting 1300 - 1515 lb. You should not skimp on the weight of metal in a sub frame. It's there to keep the stress away from the tractor's frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Im not skimping on the subframe metal its the original brantly subframe that was engineered for an airens tractor im just adapting it to an mf14 it will be fine im sure. Subframe is heavy metal mostly 1/2 and 3/8 so it should be fine. Ive seen what a gt loader is capable of with my kubota.
 

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I'm guessing that the Kubota that you are referring to is the one in your avatar that looks to be a BX series SCUT with 1.5" diameter cylinders. I also have a MF SCUT with 1.5" diameter cylinders. My GT with 2" diameter cylinders will out lift my SCUT by over 50% at 75% of the pressure.

I had GT loaders for 28 years before I got my SCUT and knew going in that I would be taking a hit on loader capability. What I hadn't realized is just how often that I had been using that increased capability.

I will freely admit that the sub frame on my MF1655 loader is substantially overkill. I got enough lessons with my MF12H on sub frame design that I had no interest in a repeat performance with the same loader on the larger, more powerful 1655. It's easier and cheaper to build an overkill sub frame once than to build a questionable sub frame twice. I would rather have a front axle failure than a sub frame failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I'm guessing that the Kubota that you are referring to is the one in your avatar that looks to be a BX series SCUT with 1.5" diameter cylinders. I also have a MF SCUT with 1.5" diameter cylinders. My GT with 2" diameter cylinders will out lift my SCUT by over 50% at 75% of the pressure.
The kubota is a not a bx its actually a g3200 10hp diesel gt that was never intended to be a loader platform let alone a tlb. However its what have and I adapted the wrightway loader and the brantly Ld6 backhoe onto it. Works great and that loader out lifts a bx and ive tested that. Pretty sure the ld6 backhoe can dig deeper than the bx backhoe too. I made the subframe and posts for the wrightway and they have been holding up good. I am not disagreeing about how the stong the subframe has to be. Im just re using one that is already engineered. If it breaks I will fix it.
 
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