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MF-7 Belt to Gearbox

6784 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Heavy Hitch
I just acquired an MF-7 with a Tecumseh engine and manual gearbox. I believe the belt that is installed is not the correct length since the clutch idler has no effect on stopping the gearbox pinion. All other belt guides and rollers seem to be in place. The clutch idler only deflects the belt about an inch and I suspect that it should take up more belt slack than that.

Could anyone tell me what the correct belt should be and if possible, give me an equivalent Gates number? I didn't acquire any reference books yet and haven't had time to order one.

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Well ... I answered my own question by accessing the Agco books. Thanks NUTNDUN for posting the link to those!

Turns out, I have the correct belt (517965m1) which is 84" long

Still not sure why the clutch mechanism isn't working ... it releases the belt tension but the gearbox pulley doesn't stop so you can't shift (grinds) anyone have a cause and more importantly a solution?
I think there is some kind of a belt guide wire that pinches or rubs the belt when the clutch is pushed to act like a brake and stop the belt.

Yes #23 in AGCO parts books part# 517817M1

You need to adjust this so it rubs the belt when clutch pushed and does not rub when clutch released.
Yeah ... I have to agree with you ... that's what I thought should happen but curiously the idler pulley is mounted on the other side of the bracket from what the drawing shows. The drive belt rides in the far left guide which requires the idler to be positioned to the left of the bracket also (viewed looking forward from the seat). The spacer is located to the right of the pulley, not the left as the drawing shows with no belt guide. I'll have to download the operations manual and see what's going on here.

Thanks for your help!
Check your brake adjustment. I know when I bought my 8, the linkage was broken. While it was broken, there was nothing to stop the pulley from hitting the rear fender pan! With the brake adjusted up, it no longer hit. Your brake rod may be too tight and not allow for a full movement of the idler pulley. Disconnect the brake rod and see how it works.
Well, here's the whole story ... I recently received this tractor from a neighbor who had it sitting around in a shed from the previous homeowner. The tractor was mostly assembled but not in running condition. I went through the engine and assembled the machine which had a new drive belt already installed. After finding that it wouldn't unclutch, I took the belt off and measured the length which was correct so I re-installed. Still couldn't get the belt to stop when engaging clutch. Later that week I was browsing through the aisles at a Tractor Supply store and I happened upon the drive belt isle.

My problem was immediately evident to me ... when I looked at the 1/2" x 84" belt which is the correct one for my tractor I realized that it was narrower than the one currently on the machine! Ahhhh !!!! Such a stupid oversight! The belt on the tractor was 5/8" wide! No wonder it wouldn't slip when the tension was off. The devil is definitely in the details. Now the MF-7 runs like a champ and is in remarkably good condition.
Sneaky! Good catch on that one!
I know this is an old post, but I'm wondering if any of you know the numbers for the drive belt and the deck belt for an MF 6? :thanku:
Drive Belt-523733M1

Mowing deck Belt-523735M1

You can type these numbers into Jacks Small Engines and get the belts you need.

I'd love to see some Pictures of your MF 6, those are a cool and rare RER!
Thanks a lot stoneman!:thanku: I just posted a new thread because I wasn't sure I'd get a response on this one. It was my grandfather's which he purchased new in 71 or 72 I believe. I'll post some pics as soon as I can!
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