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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all i am new to the site but im hoping for some help .

I have a 1450 garden tractor with a sundstrand inline hydrostatic tranny model HT90 . i have spun the input shaft on the pump and im having a hard time finding a replacement or a place that can rebuild it any help from you all would be greatly appreciated . i love this tractor and its been in my family since it was new . thank you for the help in advance .
Scott
 

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They are VERY expensive to have rebuilt & only a few places even offer the service. Best is to buy an old unit fort parts or drop-in replacement if in good working order.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i have found a MF dealer that's been in business for a very long time (over 50yrs) they may actually be able to get me a replacement shaft . PS olcowhand its the stub shaft sticking out of the rear end when you pull the center cover off from between your legs .

any good places to look for a cheap 1450 (hahah i know good luck right) !
 

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The shaft you see when thecenter cover is off is the input shaft. When I bought my 1650 the guy said "it'll run but nothing else" , when I got it home I discovered that the coupler splines and shaft splines where gone. Wanting to make sure whether or not the tranny worked before going any further I drilled a hole through the coupler and shaft, installed a hardened bolt the correct size through both. I did buy a new coupler and have an extra hydro pump for it, but the bolt is still in there and I'm starting my sixth mowing season with it like that!
 

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The shaft you see when thecenter cover is off is the input shaft. When I bought my 1650 the guy said "it'll run but nothing else" , when I got it home I discovered that the coupler splines and shaft splines where gone. Wanting to make sure whether or not the tranny worked before going any further I drilled a hole through the coupler and shaft, installed a hardened bolt the correct size through both. I did buy a new coupler and have an extra hydro pump for it, but the bolt is still in there and I'm starting my sixth mowing season with it like that!
Butch, did you use a cobalt drill bit? That shaft & coupler are some hard stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i would like to know what bit also i tried using set screw method last season had to burn a hole in the hardened coupler with a welding rod ,fill it ,then drill and tap it that and fill in the coupling with jb weld. held for 2 winters and lasty summer mowing but it spun out again a week ago . I would love to drill and bolt it but i had to use a masonry diamond tip bit just to put a dimple in the shaft for the set screw .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
are you saying make me a offer for a shaft olcowhand :). also is there a worry about seals and such when tearing apart and replacing said shaft , and if so where do you get your seals ? i can maker my own gaskets but as hard a time as ive had finding a new shaft i imagine theres no easy rebuild kit with that seals and bearings or whatever .
 

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are you saying make me a offer for a shaft olcowhand :). also is there a worry about seals and such when tearing apart and replacing said shaft , and if so where do you get your seals ? i can maker my own gaskets but as hard a time as ive had finding a new shaft i imagine theres no easy rebuild kit with that seals and bearings or whatever .
For $15 I'll ship the shaft to you. I've never had to replace a hydro input shaft seal yet & had several apart. They are a std type seal though, so with dimensions you could go to a bearing supply house & likely get the seal easy enough. If your seal wasn't leaking, you'd be alright.
Do you have a shop manual for these units? If not, I believe you can download them from the Snapper site.
 

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I have the seal no. in my toolbox (I always save the end of the box the part came in) for the Sundstrand pump input shaft seal. I got a bunch of grass wrapped around the shaft one time when useing the rough cut (brush hog) mower in some really tall grass and brush. My 1650 has the Eaton pump, my 1450 and 1855 have the Sundstrand pump. Yup, I have a set of drill bits that are meant for hard stuff. I used a 4L60 tranny valve body bolt and a self locking nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
it seams that all the manuals on the snapper site have the eaton pump instead of the sundstrand :( . i would like that seal # , when you get the chance , i hope to not need it but im always looking to compile as much info as possible .
 

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it seams that all the manuals on the snapper site have the eaton pump instead of the sundstrand :( . i would like that seal # , when you get the chance , i hope to not need it but im always looking to compile as much info as possible .
It's a C/R brand seal (chicago rawhide), seal #7443. Got the shaft boxed & postage applied. Will go out tomorrow. The shaft had more wear than I thought once I wire wheeled the end, but will work fine. Half of spline left. Should last years. Main thing is to have a good coupler.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
mabie bros inc in NY had the coupling in stock but man has the price of those gone way up i bought one for this tractor 6 years ago or so for $27 this one cost $67 :( such is life i guess .
 

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mabie bros inc in NY had the coupling in stock but man has the price of those gone way up i bought one for this tractor 6 years ago or so for $27 this one cost $67 :( such is life i guess .
OUCH! But with a new coupler you will run for a long time, so in the end, it's worth it. Your shaft went out today!
 
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