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Hello Everyone,

I created this post yesterday on the Massey CUT forum, but I just realized it was probably not in the correct board. I wanted to re-post some of the mods I've done to my SCUT.

I'm not into social media, but found this site useful for various tractor projects and wanted to post some of the upgrades I've done on my newly purchased tractor (summer 2019) in the hopes it'll help other SCUT [Massey GC1705] owners.


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Most of the mods I've done to mine were inspired by looking at what other owners have done on various forums and customizing them to my Massey GC1705. All of these mods are somewhat universal and will probably work in some fashion on all the other brands. All of my mods are home-built and customized for my tractor for a learning experience / customizing to my tractor & needs / money saving - as opposed to buying universal add on's. The first mod I did was add grab hooks to my bucket...


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These were a great addition for pulling brush / lashing stuff to the bucket and in my opinion should be standard from the factory on any FEL. I purchased these from Menards and spent around $20 for all 3 hooks and the D-Ring.
 

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The second upgrade I did was making a set of clamp on pallet / brush forks for my tractor.
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Shortly after purchasing my tractor, I realized how useful a set of pallet / brush forks would be for my property. I can get pallets free from work and its useful palletizing items to move around my shop / property. For example Its handy to throw thing on a pallet, such as landscaping bricks / other equipment, and moving them from one place to another in one movement. I looked at buying some from Northern Tool, but couldn't justify $200+ dollars for a set, so I came up with a similar design and purchased all the required materials from my local steel supply shop for less than $50.

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I saw some bit of 'controversy' using C-Channel for homemade pallet forks tractors on some forums. I feel like sometimes there are a lot of people who are so smart that they have to school everyone on everything, yet lack common sense. Yes, this C-Channel is not suitable to lift an army tank with my SCUT - FEL. I use it to lift 400 - 500 lbs max and its completely fine as long as I have proper rear ballast (another post on that). To my satisfaction the bucket on this Massey is really robust and the clamping pressure at the max capacity for how I would use these forks shows no deflection / distress when loaded.
 

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I was planning on making a separate set of brush forks to fasten to my bucket when I first purchased my tractor, but after using the clamp on pallet forks I realized they work just fine for all my brush piles...
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I have a lot trees around my house that I am in the process of cutting down - the spruces due to disease. I've been cutting all the brush / logs into 6' - 8' lengths. Being able to adjust my pallet (brush) forks to the width of my bucket allows me to move the brush piles to my burn pit with ease.

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Mike
 

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Shortly after making my pallet forks and having a large bonfire at night, I realized that my headlights weren't adequate especially while trying to use my FEL to move brush to the fire. I quickly moved my future utility light mod to the top of the list.

For less than $20 I purchased a set of 4" 120W LED lights off Amazon. I scouted out TSC at first, but didn't want to spend 2x the money for the same lights made in China. For the money, I can't complain, and they greatly increased visibility both front and rear at night. Using a square U-bolt and some scrap angle, I fabbed up a simple bracket to mount to the ROPS. I ran inline fuses and mounted two water resistant rocker switches [$15 from HD] to control both lights. Along with the wire it set me back under $50. Great mod for sure...

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Yes, this C-Channel is not suitable to lift an army tank with my SCUT - FEL. I use it to lift 400 - 500 lbs max and its completely fine as long as I have proper rear ballast (another post on that).
Nice mods. Just wanted to set your expectiations on those pallet forks. Your loader is only rated for 678 lbs. to full lift height at the pin, and only 470 lbs. 500 mm in front of the pin, which is barely much in front of the lip of the bucket, so I doubt if it will lift more than 300 lbs. or so when the weight is centered halfway out the length of those forks. The loader on my Kubota BX25D is only rated at 70 lbs. more at the pin than yours, and about 50 lbs. more at 500 mm, and it can lift my 50" snow blower on a pallet with clamp on forks, which weighs less than 300 lbs. including the pallet, but only to about 3 feet off the ground. Mine has a backhoe out back so ballast for loader work is not an issue.
 

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That was just an estimate and you're probably correct on that. I think common sense goes a long way using any tractor and I was just trying to illustrate my point that for what I'm lifting, the C-Channel isn't going to bend before my tractor is on its side. Landscape bricks are pretty heavy and I'm usually only lifting them 6-8" off the ground during transport. I was able to get my snow blade out of my truck that was on a pallet. That weighs probably less than 300 lbs though. The 500 lbs rear ballast I made makes a huge difference for all my loader work.

Mike
 

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I too want to custom build some mods for my GC2410, and notice you have some nifty fabrication machines (and obviously the skills to use them..) which I do not, so, you know, envy...

Like you, I wanted pallet forks, a bucket-hitch adaptor and needed a ballast box for snowblowing with my 2360 snowblower. I got all three from Titan Mfg for very little $. The forks, rated for 5 times what I'll ever ask of them, were only $140! The ballast box was the most important, and after noticing a sale a week after I bought mine, I ended up getting the box (they refunded the difference of the sale price..) for about $200 - that's almost the cost of materials, let alone fabrication and design costs.

Gotta admit, beyond the amazing utility of these machines, the joy of taking care of them and then tweaking the toolset to make them even better is great fun.
 

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$140 is a great deal! I'll have to keep my eyes on that site for upgrades as I see fit. I enjoy making my own mods, however, as it gets me out in the shop...plus - its all made in the USA (Canada is ok i guess!)
 

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Here is a custom utility box I made out of some 1" angle and expanded metal.
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I searched all over for ideas on mounting a tool box on this tractor, but never really saw one mounted behind the seat (which is really what I wanted to do).
 

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I used some existing bolt holes on the seat mounting bracket along with some 6" angle (which was in the 'drop' bin at my local steel shop) and a square tubing spacer to fasten it to my tractor. I had to cut the 6" angle down to fit as a bracket, but it worked great. I have less than $30 into this box buying at my local steel shop's drop bin.
 

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I machined a slot in the top rail of the box to mount the 'Tractor Slow Moving Vehicle' sign because the box slightly interfered with the OEM location.


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My one complaint when I bought this tractor was the top link bracket for stowing the top linkage when not in use. I never liked the design, especially after seeing how my Father's Kubota was setup. I actually damaged the original bracket while it was attached to my tractor when using the 3 point hitch after it vibrated into position and got bent after it got pinched...

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I decided to incorporate a new top link holder into the design of my utility box using 1/8" steel rod and bent it into shape with a torch.

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I designed it to sit high enough so the rod won't interfere with the top link while using an implement, and also to keep it secured and not come out while not in use.
 

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I designed this box to be spaced 1/8" above the rear plastic with 99% of the load to be held by the rear seat bracket. I'm not using this box to hold anything super heavy...maybe 20 lbs at the most. It was made to hold work gloves, a crescent wrench, multit-tool, spare lynch pins, water bottle, etc. Because of that I wasn't worried about over-stressing the angle bracket that mounts it to the seat. I intentionally added some foam tape (left over from my old truck Tonneau Cover) to space the gap and absorb any vibration.
 

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Behind the seat is a good place for a toolbox. Nice work. My top link bracket is identical to yours, and the link always falls out of it. Yours will never fall now.
 

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Hello Everyone,

I created this post yesterday on the Massey CUT forum, but I just realized it was probably not in the correct board. I wanted to re-post some of the mods I've done to my SCUT.

I'm not into social media, but found this site useful for various tractor projects and wanted to post some of the upgrades I've done on my newly purchased tractor (summer 2019) in the hopes it'll help other SCUT [Massey GC1705] owners.


2442856




Most of the mods I've done to mine were inspired by looking at what other owners have done on various forums and customizing them to my Massey GC1705. All of these mods are somewhat universal and will probably work in some fashion on all the other brands. All of my mods are home-built and customized for my tractor for a learning experience / customizing to my tractor & needs / money saving - as opposed to buying universal add on's. The first mod I did was add grab hooks to my bucket...


2442855



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These were a great addition for pulling brush / lashing stuff to the bucket and in my opinion should be standard from the factory on any FEL. I purchased these from Menards and spent around $20 for all 3 hooks and the D-Ring.
For the members like myself that are not as talented as you i found that Ken's bolt on hooks has some nice hooks that bolt on. I tried the clamp on forks for moving brush they worked great not so much for pallets only could lift a couple hundred pounds and could not see the tips to get them underneath the pellets.

Doug

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Hello, I have wanted a vee plow for a couple years . So I purchased 2 -42 inch plow blades for$45 each. I mounted one on my tractor and pivoted it to 30 degrees . I setup my laser level displaying a vertical line . I traced the curvature of the vertical line onto the curved face of the plow blade. I copied the traced line onto a thin aluminum sheet . The template allows me to use it on the left and right

halves of the plow blade

After markiing the plow blades ,I cut the profile using my porta band saw and a jig saw with metal cutting blade. Some adjusting of the cuts was required to get them to fit closely . I tack welded them together . And did the final welding .



I mounted the support for the plow push bar and welded that in place .

I sanded the plow and painted it . Here are some photos

Thanks Ken in Mi
 

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Wow, sweet work! It's been a pretty dry winter in my part of Michigan, but hopefully be able to use it in the next 24 hours.
 

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I made a 16” bucket 12” bucket 8” bucket a lifting attachment.

I really like the 16” bucket you can move a lot of dirt. Both the 16” and the 12” bucket I use mini ex 156 bucket teeth.
They bite the dirt really well.

I have a root ripper also.
My Quick connect lets me switch between attachment in about a min.

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