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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a MF230 and it appears that it is set up for some kind of power steering. There is a single hydraulic cylinder connected to the left side of the tractor that runs to the front wheels.

The tractor turns somewhat easy when turning in small increments. But when you have to really turn the wheel one way or the other, you really have to crank on the wheel to get it to turn tight. It just doesn't seem like it should be that hard. I don't know if it is because the cylinder isn't moving correctly or even at all.

I took the reservoir cap off tonight to look at the fluid inside. Here is a picture of the inside of the cap. It doesn't seem like it should be that color. The fluid inside almost looked like a weak chocolate milk mix.

Any suggestions on how to get this going would be great.

 

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There is too much oil in the water system. :biglaugh:

Actually, it's the other way around. The oil is full of water and needs to be drained and the system flushed and filled with fresh fluid.
 

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Most hydraulic fluids in tractors are oil based, so yes, I meant the power steering fluid. (I usually don't slip up on that one.) :hide: :sorry1:

New filter unless it is a stainless steel mesh strainer. That can be washed and reused.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So you're saying I should drain all the current fluid and then flush the lines with hydraulic fluid, then fill the system with the appropriate fluids?

And just checking, I know most tractors are diesel but mine is a gas burner. I'm sure that doesn't matter when it comes to this.
 

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Jack up the front end, disconnect the cylinder hoses from the valve and place them in a drain pan. Manually turn the wheels left and right 2 or 3 times to empty the cylinder, then disconnect the hoses from the cylinder and drain them. Drain the reservoir and that will only leave a few cubic inches of contaminated fluid in the system, which is tolerable.

Put it all back together and fill with Dexron, if that is the recommended fluid. Start the engine and cycle the steering lock to lock a few times until it operates smoothly, then put it back on the ground and confirm smooth steering.

After about 10 hours of operation, if you still have concerns or if the fluid changes colour drastically, drain and refill the reservoir.
 

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Ditto to what Tudor says. Plus, when you're done flushing it and filling it, and turning it to full left and full right a few times each, check the fluid level in the reservoir, as you will probably need to top it off once the fluid displaces the air in the lines and cylinders.
 

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Yes, the air should work its way back to the reservoir as the fluid fills the lines and cylinders. The reservoir should be vented in some fashion. I'm not familiar with that model, but some have a vent hole in the filler cap, and some have a separate vent hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I need to re-visit this thread and the venting statement. When under stress or after being used for a whole, my PS reservoir leaks. I haven't determined whether it leaks around the lip of the lid (there is a gasket there, probably old and worn) or through the middle of the lid where the bolt goes through. Today when parked and engine off, I turned the wheel and saw bubbles coming from around the bolt. I was going to try and seal it off somehow but wanted to make sure it wasn't supposed to "vent" there.

You might think I'm overfilling it, but once it leaks out, the PS practically quits working and I have to refill the reservoir. And when I say it leaks, it's more of a spew.
 

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Did you change the filter when you changed the fluids? A clogged filter can result in cavitation/bubbles/foaming of the fluid, which causes it to expand in volume and come out of the vent or any other place where the pressure can escape.
 
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