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Cranky Motorsports
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15,275 Posts
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I have a couple Marlin 60's and both of them that I have I bought used. In both cases, I have had to do some tuning on them to get them running optimally, but with a hour or so of work, and a little elbow grease (and gun oil) you can make them run flawlessly.

The basic issues I have had with my Marlins all revolve around the bolt not being machined square or being rough, and the ejector "wire" not being bent correctly. if you look on Youtube there are many videos showing you the proper way to fix the ejector spring, so I am not going to cover that. But in general, if you can make something be smooth and slippery, most of the time it will run better.

So what I typically do is field strip the receiver so the hammer/ejector/feed assembly is out, and take the bolt, spring, and guide rod completely out. Then I take a sharpening stone, wet it a little, and start polishing the left side, right side, and top of the bolt until it is relatively flat and you can't see many areas that have not been stoned. (note this will not make the bolt square, but it WILL make all the surfaces flat) After I get all three surfaces flat, I will put the charging handle in the bolt, and re-stone the top of it so if the charging handle stands proud, then it will polish it to the same level, thus reducing a "high point" and in turn reducing friction.

In one of my Marlin 60's I had to remove the paint inside the receiver because it was getting gummy from heat and years of storage (that particular gun was from like 1986). Once the receiver has been cleaned out, and the bolt has been stoned, cleaned, and oiled I re-assemble the bolt/spring/guide rod into the receiver. I have been using Lucas Extreme gun oil, and it works very well. Like KY for your gun.

If the ejector spring is bent, I then take the time to straighten it out so it stays in the little groove in the feedramp, and then clean very well with a nylon brush and good bore solvent the entire hammer/ejector/feed assembly (I should figure out what it's actually called), if you have compressed air, blow it out with about 20 psi Air, if you don't, just make sure you get any grit out of the assembly so all the parts mover freely and are not housing lead or fouled powder.

Re-assemble the rifle, and cycle the bolt a bunch of times to work in the oil. It should run a lot better.

Here are a couple examples of my marlin 60's with issues and without.

So here is my first Marlin 60 I bought and the issues I was having with it.

And the same gun after I did the bolt polishing and cleaned the paint out of the receiver/


And here is a more modern Marlin 60 Stainless model that had a ton of issues. Mainly it was the extractor giving me issues on this one, but I polished the bolt up and it made a huge difference.

And after only polishing the bolt
(skip ahead to 8:44 to see the Marlin 60)

and after it was completely fixed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbqlu1mibRQ

so you can see the progression of both rifles, both had similar issues, both are fixed and reliable.

If you want to see the a video on fixing the spring, here is a good one and he gives you some tricks on assembly as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np-r3ZmbBJE&t=111s


so maybe all that will help someone.
 
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Reactions: Steve Urquell

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Super Moderator
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Looks like you've got it figured out. Thanks for the tutorial. I'll direct anyone having problems with a Mod 60 to this thread.
 
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