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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My tractor is running great so on to the next project...

The 60" M48 mower deck is next on my list. It came with my 448 and I was told that it needed some TLC. I have the manual for it and this is what I have found so far.

The PO claimed that he hit a rock and thought a belt had snapped. The timing belts are in good shape, but the blades were out of alignment.

I went through the blade alignment process and found that the left side pulley has a chip in it and it wobbles when spun. The manual does not cover the removal or replacement of the spindle, so I am at a standstill here. I assume the entire assembly will need replacement? The center and right side pulleys spin freely and true and look to be in good shape, so I think I should be OK leaving them alone.

All help and advice is welcomed.
 

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I think if you undo the blade it should all slide out . once you remove the bolts holding it to the deck .The spindle can be very hard to remove from the mandrel ...I like to remove the spindle from the mandrel once i get it off the deck ..I put it in the vise and soak it with a mix of oil and trans fluid for a bit the press it out make sure not to damage the threads on it ...you can buy a mandrel with the bearings installed or you can buy the bearings separate and re do yours
 

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The parts manual is available for free on the Ingersoll website. It's possible that you have a bent spindle. Not a big deal except for perhaps removing it. Remove the belt. Remove the pulley. Rotate the spindle from below and watch for visible run-out. If it's minor, you might be able to drive the spindle out but if it's wobbling, then you'll have to use a Sawzall or hacksaw to cut it off flush.

I'd put six new bearings into the deck right now and just put that issue behind me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The parts manual is available for free on the Ingersoll website. It's possible that you have a bent spindle. Not a big deal except for perhaps removing it. Remove the belt. Remove the pulley. Rotate the spindle from below and watch for visible run-out. If it's minor, you might be able to drive the spindle out but if it's wobbling, then you'll have to use a Sawzall or hacksaw to cut it off flush.

I'd put six new bearings into the deck right now and just put that issue behind me.
Is there any special way to remove the pulley/sproket? I didn't want to break anything major.
Thanks
 

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Your M-deck should have the steel timing pulleys on it. The early decks had a pulley that was made from some composite material. A magnet will tell you which you have. You must use a 2 or 3 jawed puller or two large pry bars to remove the pulley. The often come off without much hassle. Penetrating fluid squirted down the keyway helps. You can't drive the spindles down because the key will hit the upper bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
there should be a nut
I removed the nut, but the pulley won't budge. I didn't want to get out the crow bar and sledge hammer until I consulted with you guys!!:trink40:
 

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You need two pry bars, not one. You have to put pressure equally on both sides. You can wind the nut back on to the point where it is flush with the spindle. Put a couple guys onto the pry bars and let them exert a good 100 pounds of force on each pry bar so those bars are trying to lift the pulley upward. Then YOU give the nut/spindle top and smack with a 2 lb sledge hammer. Try a light smack and then increase the strength until the pulley pops up to the nut bottom.

Once that happens, remove the nut and use the pry bars to finish the task.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will borrow a puller from the mechanics at work tomorrow. It should give the penetrating oil some time to soak in as well.

Thanks again guys.
 

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If you have the composite pulleys, do NOT use a puller. They will break.

Even with the all steel pulley you can mess up the belt guide quite a lot, but it is repairable.

The advice posted here is well founded ... penetrating oil and then pry bars under the very center of the pulley is the way to go.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If you have the composite pulleys, do NOT use a puller. They will break.

Even with the all steel pulley you can mess up the belt guide quite a lot, but it is repairable.

The advice posted here is well founded ... penetrating oil and then pry bars under the very center of the pulley is the way to go.

Brian

So...

What is the price tag for a new Pulley/Sproket, spindle and bearing set for the entire deck?

I wish I had read this post last night. My pulley is the composite type, it chips very easily and folds in half when removed with a 3 jaw puller.

I don't think this could have been avoided though, that pulley acted like it was welded to the shaft.
 

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Act in haste... regret in leisure...

The compo pulleys were a bad idea. Up until recently, new timing pulleys cost $97.85 but Brian announced a price reduction. All the same, there are four involved. Those are great mowing decks but when compared to the 3 other decks, they are expensive to repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, the way I look at things.

I paid $750 for the tractor and snowblower. The mower deck was an extra thrown in and didn't really matter to me.

I have under $100 and a weekend of my time getting the tractor running good.


The snowblower should be nothing to very minimal to service. (Knock on wood.)

So, if it costs me $100-$200 to get the 60" deck running, so be it. I think for around $1000 total investment, I didn't do too bad.
 

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Well, the way I look at things.

I paid $750 for the tractor and snowblower. The mower deck was an extra thrown in and didn't really matter to me.

I have under $100 and a weekend of my time getting the tractor running good.


The snowblower should be nothing to very minimal to service. (Knock on wood.)

So, if it costs me $100-$200 to get the 60" deck running, so be it. I think for around $1000 total investment, I didn't do too bad.
The only way you will get off that cheap is if you just buy one new pulley. I believe the new price is still around the $80.00 mark and at "times 4" that becomes $320.00 plus real quick. Toss in another $50.00 for bearings and 2 new belts at $60.00 each you are at $500.00 in the blink of an eye.

Yes...you can ride it out with those compo pulleys but sooner or later.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The only way you will get off that cheap is if you just buy one new pulley. I believe the new price is still around the $80.00 mark and at "times 4" that becomes $320.00 plus real quick. Toss in another $50.00 for bearings and 2 new belts at $60.00 each you are at $500.00 in the blink of an eye.

Yes...you can ride it out with those compo pulleys but sooner or later.............
I understand and agree where you are coming from with a total overhaul. But, I have no intentions of using the mower on a regular basis. I might use it 2-3 times per season to keep a small field from being overgrown, but that's about all. If I fix what is wrong with it and it works, bonus. If it becomes more trouble than it is worth to me, Craigslist it goes.

On the other hand, the snowblower is a completely different issue. I want to rely on that as my primary snow removal device. So, a complete rebuild with glossy paint job wouldn't be out of the question.
 

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I know this is an old post, but recently acquired a case 448 with an M48 cutting deck. I got everything together except for the drive belt. It seems like it's just a few inches short. I'm petty sure I have the right belt. I bought two each from a different supplier, and one was an OEM dealer. They're both the same size. Any tips or tricks for getting this thing on? My grass is starting to get pretty long.
 

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I know this is an old post, but recently acquired a case 448 with an M48 cutting deck. I got everything together except for the drive belt. It seems like it's just a few inches short. I'm petty sure I have the right belt. I bought two each from a different supplier, and one was an OEM dealer. They're both the same size. Any tips or tricks for getting this thing on? My grass is starting to get pretty long.
C26653 is the correct belt P/N ...

C26653 - BELT - Salem Power Equipment, LLC

It is a frequent mistake to get the belt for a 48" deck, as opposed to a model M48 deck ... I've never heard a good explanation for that model numbering.

Brian
 

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Thanks guys. I had a friend come over and showed me a trick. He raised the frame attachment above the two set pins which gave me just enough room to slip the belt on.
 
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