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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning.
I have a 1998 LTX 1000, 917.272441. I replaced the deck spindles that go to the blades and I am now having trouble with the engagement cable. When I put the deck back together the deck engagement cable has way too much slack in it. The idler pulley that it mounts to does not get drawn to the rear the deck far enough. It will engage the blades but not tension up the bell enough to keep it from slapping and eventually jumping a pulley. I took a picture prior to pulling it apart to make sure that everything went back where it was supposed to. The mount for the cable on the deck is not adjustable so I just do not understand why it does not have the tension it did prior to me touching it. The only things that I had pulled off were the blade brakes and idlers.
I attached a picture of the mower deck.
Any help appreciated.
2512713
 

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Is the slide working properly...They do get sticky ..get some wd40 and spray the slide plate and the tension pulley were ot bolts to the deck work it till it slides then apply some grease to the plate ...of its not traveling all the way the belt will be sloppy and fall off make sure the belt guards on on also the hold the belt in place so they don't come off the deck mandrels
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sliding idler working fine. Hit with a bit of pb blaster and actuated it for a few minutes. Made sure that the blade brakes were not to tight. The sliding plate engages both brake arms like I imagine it should. I can feel them “cam” into position when I move the tension pulley to mow position.
When I put the plastic cable mount onto the deck the spring requires no pulling to get to the top of the tension pulley. There is actually cable slack between them. I checked both ends of the cable itself and the “nub stops” are not adjustable. Is the plastic piece, as pictured, able to slide up and down the cable? Thanks
2512722
 

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Is the cable moving freely in side the sleeve....Something is definitely sticking
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It is. It just doesn’t seem to have enough throw to fully engage. I believe if I moved the mount back by drilling new holes or bending it with a sledge it would work. But that’s a last resort. Mowed fine prior to me replacing spindles so I am missing something.
 

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I do not have the cable operated model, but think the plastic piece shown in the last image should be trapped, and jammed up against the end of the cable sheath. Without holding the sheath still and firmly grasped, the cable will not be able to tension. Can't explain the geometry/physical stuff, but know that cable sheaths must be held still to have the cable have any 'pull'.
I think I would slide the plastic 'end' back along the cable until I found a spot, likely on the bracket attached to the deck, where I could put the plastic 'behind' the bracket, trapping the sheath firmly.
tom
 

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It looks like the engagement cable/spring is hooked to the deck wheel mount?
That can't be right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked the cable set up again and it appears that the cable will pull the slider all the way back to stop position where it is fully engaged, just not hold it there. I put the mower deck back underneath and hooked it up and it still bounces back-and-forth from engaged to disengaged. I removed the return spring on the slider that pulls it to the disengaged position thinking that it might be fighting with that. It made no difference at all. That leads me to these brake arms, the only thing I removed other than spindles. Time to recheck everything. Unfortunately I am poor (no garage) and it’s now raining harder. Updates might be an hour or two…
 

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Not familiar with craftsman decks, but it seems that the brake spring is under tension on the left (in the picture) spindle, but not in the right side spindle?
 

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I checked the cable set up again and it appears that the cable will pull the slider all the way back to stop position where it is fully engaged, just not hold it there.
Fully engaged should not be in the stop position. Fully engaged retracts the two brake pads away from the pulleys.

If the clutch does not stay in the run position, then the problem is at the lever end on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The cable moves the tension ildler to the full rear position. Blades engaged. As it does it retracts the blade brake about 3/8. This seems to be happening fine, it just won’t keep it there. As soon as it becomes loaded, almost instantly from spinning the blades, it starts to allow the tension pulley to move forward an inch or so then repeats itself. This is happening extremely fast which the more I think about it makes me wonder if something is out of balance or loose. It’s happening as fast as an exciter would be on a plate compactor.
Rain stopped so I need to go pull the deck and recheck everything. It’s definitely operator error. Just have to find it…
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Pulled the deck out, checked pulleys for bad bearings or wobble. Made sure all was tight. Moved blade brake spring mount to increase pressure a bit. Re installed deck and no change. Took blades off and ran it. No change. Still something wrong. Aggravating…
 

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I just looked at one of my 42 in decks, your tension pulley in the center is in the wrong place. The pulleys should be siting next to each other, the pulley on the right in the picture is to far back. See the square hole in the deck that's where it goes then the belt routes up to it and that will take up your slack. Look at the picture on the deck the pulleys are side by side
 

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When you engage the blades, the belt idler pulleys are moved, along with the brake arms. As you move the brake arms, the spring tension increases, but the arms are supposed to go 'over center' where the force needed to keep them pulled back to leave the brake pads clear of the pulleys, is reduced. The idler/tension pulleys just go along for the ride.
If you move the brake arms to the 'release' position, where the pads don't touch, the pulleys should tension the belt.
The above post about the right side pulley being out of position may be the problem.
If you can position the brake arms to the release position, and the effort decreases and the pads are clear, inspect where the shaft of the right side idler pulley would put the pulley if it was moved. If it would tension the belt, there's the adjustment needed.

Just looked underneath on mine. The pulley on the drivers left(seated) is farther forward than the other pulley. I believe you have mis-mounted the pulley. Take a look at the belt routing diagram on the deck(usually a B&W pictogram) to see the approximate positions.
tom
 

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Did u get it figured out
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ordered a new blade engagement cable and spring set. It is due to be delivered today. I am going to give that a try this afternoon when I get home from work. If I get no love from that, I will probably remove the blade brake arms and see if that makes a difference. The configuration of the pulleys has been like that for the four years that I owned the unit. I did not remove either of the two center idler‘s so I’m not sure that they are in the wrong position. When the tension idler is fully engaged to spin the blades they line up perfectly like the picture. If this fails I will probably bring it to somebody who is smarter than me which quite frankly does not take much. Wish me luck
 

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If you completely removed the belt to do the repairs, is it possible that you picked a different belt and installed it?
 
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