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Discussion Starter #1
I think I have an electrical problem and need help diagnosing. Although I have borrowed a volt meter from my neighbor, I really do not know what I'm doing.

This is what I've observed and "tested" --

No click, clunk or other any noise when trying to start
Checked 30amp fuse -- is OK
No bare or loose wires that I could find
Have 12+ volts at the battery.
Have 12+ volts on the 'input' side to the solenoid
Have 12+ volts to a couple of the wires at the ignition
Have 0 volts on 'output' side of solenoid when key is turned on
Key was turned with weight on seat (my son) so safety-switch should not be an issue

I do not know how to read a schematic or wiring diagram, but there is one in the opeartor's guide that came with my tractor.

What should my next step be?
 

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On my YS-4500, the seat interlock is not part of the starting circuit. The 2 interlocks that need to be working is that the brake needs to be on and the blades need to be disengaged. I'd start with those 2 switches.
 

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When you turned the key to START, while you were sitting on the seat, did you hear a CLUNK or KATHUNK from the solenoid?
If no CLUNK, I would have directed you to check the fuse, but you said that was good.
If all electrical connections are clean and tight, I'd suspect the solenoid is NG.
 

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Are you checking the voltages with the key turned to "start"? A battery can show good voltage with no load, and with a load drop the voltage 'way down.
Do you get voltage on the small terminal of the solenoid? 12 volts on the small terminal should pick up the solenoid and run the starter.
Make sure the PTO is off, and the brake on.
On your schematic, find the positive battery terminal. Follow it to the key switch. From the key switch, a wire should go to the solenoid, going through the safety switches. You can use your meter at various points along the way to see where the voltage gets lost.
Some safety switches are in the return path for the solenoid, I am not familiar with your particular setup, but the theory is the same.
I tried to post the diagram of a solenoid, but it won't upload for me. You don't really need it, you have your own schematic.
You may also have a bad ground, either at the battery terminal, the battery connection on the frame, or elsewhere. Grounds are often overlooked, and a bad ground will stop things from working.
Good hunting, keep up posted!
 

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When you turned the key to START, while you were sitting on the seat, did you hear a CLUNK or KATHUNK from the solenoid?
If no CLUNK, I would have directed you to check the fuse, but you said that was good.
If all electrical connections are clean and tight, I'd suspect the solenoid is NG.

My 971.255581 electrical schematic shows that the clutch pedal has to be depressed and the attachement clutch (if equipped) off to operate the starting solenoid (KATHUNK).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As far as I can hear, there is no sound whatsoever when trying to start. Clutch/brake is fully depressed and is in neutral.
 

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I would make a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, just touch it to the terminal and see if the solenoid engages, and the engine should start. If nothing happens i would say its a bad solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, voltage was read with the key in the on position. If the problem is with another switch, this iis where I could use some help -- not sure how to check them. There is a wiring diagram, I just don't know how to read it. I'll study it when I get home this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not with the tractor so not sure which terminal on the solenoid is smaller.

Assume that I could use an automotive jumper cable from positive terminal on battery to "output" side of solenoid -- where there is a wire going to the starter?
 

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There is a small terminal at the bottom of the solenoid(not the two on top) when you turn the key you should get 12 volts at this terminal, thats what engages it then it completes the cercuit on the top two terminals, which gives power to the starter. Youll see when you look at it. Sorry if this is confusing but im not the best at explaining stuff.
 

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To clarify, there will be a third, small terminal on the solenoid. 12 volts on that should pick the solenoid up. Make sure the tractor is in neutral, because the starter will (should) engage, and can move the machine. You are bypassing the safeties.
 

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You can download the manual from

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0910117.pdf

that the schematic. page25/56

Looking at the schematic, you can see-
When the key is in the start position-
12V is supplied to the S terminal which connects to the brake/clutch switch.
When the pedal is depressed, that switch is closed, allow 12V to pass through to the attachment switch-
With the attachment disengaged, that switch is closed, allowing 12V to pass on to the "small terminal" (White wire) of the starter solenoid and activate it. Engine should crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the clarification about by-passing the safety switches and the solenoid. Hope to have time to work on the tractor this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the PDF.

What do I learn if I by-pass the switches (brake/clutch and attachment) by using a jumper cable from the + post of the battery to the solenoid and the engine cranks/starts?

Does this mean that the solenoid is good and one or more of the switches could be bad?

Sorry to be dense, but I am simply not good at reading schematics or understanding how or what I should test...
 

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What do I learn if I by-pass the switches (brake/clutch and attachment) by using a jumper cable from the + post of the battery to the solenoid and the engine cranks/starts?

Does this mean that the solenoid is good and one or more of the switches could be bad?

Yes, exactly! The switches or wiring could be bad, or a switch could be out of adjustment. Just be sure that you are jumping to the small terminal!

Sorry to be dense, but I am simply not good at reading schematics or understanding how or what I should test...

That's why we're here. One of these days, you'll be passing on what you learned to someone else.
You could use a meter or an inexpensive test light to find the problem. Usable meters can be had for $10 or $15, and it would be worth the time and effort to learn how to use one. It's not all that difficult. A test light can be easier and quicker to use, depending on the situation.

Keep asking questions as they arise, we're here to help.
 
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