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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all, I recently picked up my first JD ever a 04 or 05 (not sure of year) LT150 at a garage sale for $50.00 The machine is in very good shape but doesnt run. The lady I purchased it from was the original owner and she had bought it new from a local dealer. The problem is she said she had ran it with no oil and now it wont start. She returned it to the dealer for repair but it wasnt in her budget to repair it so it has spent the last year in her garage. I figure it is a steal of a deal so I snatch it up, thinking that the engine would be seized up, but it isnt, in fact it feels like there is no compression at all. The engine spins when the starter is engaged and seems to make a light rattling noise while spinning, yet when the starter disengages it free spins like there is no spark plug installed (although it is), and I can easily spin it by hand.

The engine is the Kohler C Series CV15S - 41610.
My questions are as follows:

1) Has anyone ran across this particular scenario before?
2) Is it likely that the piston rod is broken?
3) Exhaust valve stuck open?
4) Some type of compression solenoid stuck open?

I have yet to dive off into this thing because I'm not certain as to which path to follow, tear it apart and hope I discovery obvious problem, replace with new / used like for like engine, or take 18 hp B&S from ailing TroyBuilt and make it fit. If the B&S would swap out that would be the prefered method as Im in a bit of a time constraint and I dont want to spend $1100 on a new Kohler.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Steve
 

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It definitely sounds like you have no compression. The easiest thing to do would be to pull the spark plug, spin it over and verify there is no compression. You should also be able to tell if the piston is moving. That would give you a start as where to go from there. If the piston moves a leakdown test would help you find where you are losing compression. Possible stuck rings or other things you mentioned. Good luck and let us know what you find.
 

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i would just pull the head and then crank it over much easier to see what is going on inside the engine but i would lean towards the rod being broke
 

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Could be a rod or could be valves staying open. Pull the head and you will be able to tell what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys I'll give it a shot on my next days off and report back what I find.

Regards
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Preliminary findings so far:

Pulled the valve cover and the exhaust valve pushrod is gone. I suspect it is laying in the bottom of the crankcase.

Pulled the head in place and noted:
Piston does not move when cranked.
Piston is not seized up. Pushed in with hand.

Leaning toward either a broken crankshaft and/or piston rod.

Further surgery on the horizon.

Regards
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes I could have it rebuilt but then I wouldnt be able to get all greasy! LOL

Ran across a used STX38 w/o hood with a Kohler Engine 12.5 or 13 hp (not sure of exact model) for $200. Does anyone know if this engine would fit the LT150?


Regards
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well guys I finally can confirm the CV15S that once powered this LT150 is indeed gone. My initial diagnostics was close although the damage is much worse. The only things internally intact were the valves, pushrods (intake was laying in bottom of crankcase), lifters, head, oil pan and pump, balance shaft. I have attached some pics of the damage. Despite the total explosion that must have taken place inside this poor little machine I can honestly say I had a blast tearing it down!

Regards
Steve
 

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time for a new engine. I replaced my L100 17 hp engine with a 21 hp engine and works better than new.
 

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Deere lists a short block as part #AM125360 at list price of $742.06
 

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You might want to look at this.
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=CV15T-41626&desc=Kohler%20Engine%20%2015hp%20Command%20Vertical%201"%20x3-5/32"%20Keyed%20Shaft,%20OHV,%20Recoil%20Start,%20Muffler
You may be able to swap necessary parts from your engine to make it work. I did just that with a B&S Vangard from them.
 

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one thing to mention on the LT150, I assume all year models had the same deck anyway...my 2003 the blades were timed, just have to set one at 12 and 6 and the other at 3 and 9.
 

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You might want to look at this.
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=CV15T-41626&desc=Kohler%20Engine%20%2015hp%20Command%20Vertical%201"%20x3-5/32"%20Keyed%20Shaft,%20OHV,%20Recoil%20Start,%20Muffler
You may be able to swap necessary parts from your engine to make it work. I did just that with a B&S Vangard from them.
I think the block is damaged; unless you're going to swap that too :eek:
 

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You should check Craigslist for a used Kohler. You can pick up a craftsman or scotts tractor with one. If you can find one with a blown tranny it will be cheap, $100 or so and just bolt it up. If not you can always buy a nice one for $400 and take its engine and just relist the rest of the tractor with no engine.
 

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I think the block is damaged; unless you're going to swap that too :eek:
I can see the block is damaged. The point I was trying to make is the basic long block of that engine may be the same. If it is, the flywheel, starter, alternator, shrouds, ect from the original engine could possibly be put on the new one, which would be easier and cheaper than going with a short block from JD. An email to the guys at Small Engine Warehouse would give you the answer. I bought a 20hp recoil start Vanguard from them and put it in a Sabre using the necessary components from the original engine. I saved over $200 and alot of time by doing this instead of a shortblock.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Appreciate the links and advice fella's, but I have ran across an old CV15S - 4152x (at work and cant remember exact model number) off of an old Craftsmen. It looks like it will bolt up no problem, shaft length and diameter same, except it has no fuel pump and maybe the connector from the stator is different.

Regarding the fuel pump, should I mill out the slot in the side of the block where the fuel pump mount is and install the salvaged fuel pump (has anyone ever attempted this?) OR install small 12V fuel pump? If I go with an electric pump what psi should I use, anyone know the pressure output of the original mechanical fuel pump?

Regarding the electrical system, not sure what the amperage the stator is but I guess I could swap out the stator and coil and kill two birds with one stone as this would solve the electrical connector problem.

One last question, although this engine is old and I have yet to see it run (but co-worker claims it runs good) is $200 reasonable or $150 more appropriate since I will have to do some mods to make it fit the LT-150

Regards
Steve
 

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Around here, Kohlers are tough to find, why bargain over $50 when if you don't get this engine for $200 you are looking at much more expensive models.

I went through this fuel pump issue on a Kohler MV18, but ended up going factory just for cost and ease of install. But, I found an Empi 12v pump on ebay and in stores for cheap that was going to suppy low enough PSIs for the carb. It was my second option, but I received comments from others that they have used them with no problems. I think this will work fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-WEBER-DELLORTO-EMPI-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-1-4-PSI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5d25aee48eQQitemZ400064177294QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f100QQsalenotsupported

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-WEBER-DELLORTO-EMPI-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-1-4-PSI_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5d25aee48eQQitemZ400064177294QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f100QQsalenotsupported[/URL]



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PUROLATOR-Electric-Fuel-Pump-1-1-2-To-3-1-2-Psi-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4506Q2ec0Q2em245QQhashZitem4147e9a2c8QQitemZ280379368136QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQQsalenotsupported
 
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